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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



STARK'S 

HISTORY AND GUIDE 

TO 

BARBADOS 

AND THE 

CARIBBEE ISLANDS, 

CONTAINING 

A DESCRIPTION OF EVERYTHING ON OR ABOUT THESE 

ISLANDS OF WHICH THE VISITOR OR RESIDENT 

MAY DESIRE INFORMATION, 

INCLUDING THEIR 

HISTORY, INHABITANTS, CLIMATE, AGRICULTURE, 

GEOLOGY, GOVERNMENT AND 

RESOURCES. 



WITH MAPS, ENGRAVINGS AND PHOTO PRINTS. 



BY 

JAMES H. STARK. 



BOSTON 
James H. Stark, 31 Milk Street 

LONDON 
Sampson Low, Marston & Co., Limited 



THE LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS. 

Two Copiet Received 

OCT 1 1903 

Copyright tntfy 

CUSS «t xXc.No 

COPY 0. 



Copyright, 1903. 
By JAMES H. STARK. 



• 




... 




Cjcvwuu /V 




PREFACE. 

My purpose in writing this book has been to 
introduce to the notice of those unacquainted with 
the Caribbee Islands and Barbados, some of the 
many attractions to be found there, how to reach 
these beautiful islands, their resources and produc- 
tions ; and a brief history of their discovery and 
settlement ; also the manners and customs of the 
inhabitants, and a complete index and guide to all 
points of interest. 

These islands are now passing through a transition 
state, what their industrial and political future will 
be, it is impossible to tell. I have related, however, 
what in my opinion, (based upon my observations 
there and elsewhere), would be the result if the 
negroes were allowed to rule. 

In compiling this work, every authority that it was 
possible to obtain on the subjects contained therein, 
has been consulted, and the information embodied in 
this work. Much of the matter is compiled from 
such authorities as Ligon's and Schomburgk's, 
histories of Barbados, Moxley Guide to Barbados, 
Froude's English in the West Indies, Paton's Down 
the Islands, Black America, and many other works 
too numerous to mention. 






Contents, 



I. The Voyage to Santa Cruize, ... i 

II. St. Kitts and Nevis, 9 

III. Nevis, Antigua and Montserrat, . . 18 

IV. Guadaloupe and Dominica, 27 

V. Martinique and St. Lucia, .... 42 

VI. Barbados, Its First Appearance, Early 

History 56 

VII. Civil War in Barbados, .... 72 

VIII. Wars with France, Abolition of Slavery, 83 

IX. Inhabitants, Whites, Colored, and Negroes, ioi 
X. Barbados as a Health Resort, Amusements 

and Recreation, no 

XL Seaside Resorts, The Crane and Bathsheba, 

Rambles in Scotland Hills, . . . 118 

XII. Caves and Ravines, 127 

XIII. Oistin's Bay, Christ Church, Remarkable 

Occurrence, 140 

XIV. Hackelton's Cliff, St. John's Church, 

Paleologus, Indian Antiquities, . . 148 

XV. Agriculture and Industries, . . 153 

XVI. Religion and Education, . . . .161 

XVIL The Geology of Barbados, .... 176 

XVI 1 1. Washington's Visit to Barbados, Barbadian 

Hospitality, 184 

XIX. The Future of Barbados and the Caribbef 

Islands, 191 



INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Carlisle Bay, Frontispiece. 

After the Eruption, Martinique, 42 

A Negro Beauty, 132 

Antigua', . 24 

Basseterre Park, St. Kitts, 6 

Boiling Lake, Dominica, 33 

Boiling House, . . . . . . . .155 

Bowen, Dr. Residence, .112 

Bridgetown Harbor, . 84 

Broad Street, Barbados, . . . . . . 194 

Carrying Pottery to Bridgetown, 124 

Codrington College, . . . . . . .170 

Curiosity Shop, 178 

English Harbor, Antigua, 26 

Entrance to Farley Hall, 150 

First West Indian Regiment, 114 

Going to Market, .131 

Hot Springs, 48 

Infantry Camp, Gun Hill, 94 

Joe's River Plantation, 134 

Ligon's Map of Barbados 1647, J 5^ 

Lord's Castle, 118 

Map of Barbados, 190 

Map of the Caribbee Islands, . . . . • • n 

Map showing location of the Caribbee Islands, . . 3 

Marine Hotel, Hastings, 5$ 

Market, Guadaloupe, . . . . . . • 29 

Market Place, Dominica, 36 

Mount Pleasant Plantation, 164 

Mountains of Dominica, ...... 39 

Nevis, , ... 18 

Parliament Buildings, ....... 68 



INDEX. 

Point A. Petre, Guadaloupe. ...... 28 

Public Square, Basseterre, 14 

Public Buildings, 76 

Ready for Market. 157 

Repairing the Road, 129 

Roadside Scene, 122 

Roebuck Street, Barbados, 186 

Seashore, Bathsheba, . . . . . . .120 

Shot Hill, 104 

Sonfriere, St. Kitts, 16 

St. John's Church, Antigua, 22 

St. Kitts, 12 

The " Bridge" Bridgetown, 64 

The Coffins, 145, 146 

The Pitons, St. Lucia, 50 

The Tomb, . . 141 

Three Natives, . . 119 

Trafalgar Square, 90 

View in front of the Ice House, 58 

Where Lord Nelson was Married, . . . . 20 

Windmill, Mt. Pleasant, 154 

Windmill and Boiling House, 154 



STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

TO 



BARBADOS 



AND THE- 



CARIBBEE ISLANDS, 

CHAPTER I. 

THE VOYAGE. SANTA CRUZ. 



To the tourists and invalids desirous of escaping 
the rigors of a northern winter, a new and enchant- 
ing field is opened up by a trip to Barbados by 
way of the Windward Islands, known also as the 
Carib'bees or Lesser Antilles. 

A trip from New York to the Caribbee Islands 
occupies six days each way at sea. The direct dis- 
tance from New York to St. Croix, the first island in 
this group at which the steamer stops, is 1465 miles, 
and from there to Barbados 400 miles : the actual run 
to, and among the islands is about 2,000 miles. 
The visitor has the choice of two lines of steamers 
running from New York to Barbados. The Quebec 
Steamship Co. dispatches a steamer every two weeks, 
stopping at St. Croix, St. Kitts, Antigua, Guada- 
loupe, Dominica, Martinique, St. Lucia, and Barba- 
dos ; and sometimes at Montserrat and Nevis. 

A day or two is spent at each place, discharging 
and taking in cargo, thereby allowing ample time for 
the passengers to go ashore for a drive or walk about 
the island, the run between the islands being made 
by night. 



2 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

Pickford and Black's West India Steamship Line 
dispatches a first-class vessel from St. John, N. B., 
and Halifax, N. S., every two weeks calling at 
Bermuda, St. Lucia, Barbados, Trinidad *" and 
Demerara, and in every four weeks the steamer 
also stops at St. Kitts, Antigua, Montserrat, Domin- 
ica, St. Vincent, Grenada and Tobago. Passen- 
gers not desiring to take the steamer at St. John or 
Halifax can connect with this line at Bermuda, by 
taking a steamer of the Que'bec Steamship Line 
sailing weekly from New York to Bermuda. 

The writer decided to take passage on a steamer 
of the Quebec Steamship Company Line. We 
left the dock at New York at 3 p. m., Wednesday, in 
the early part of January, during a driving northwest 
snow storm, and the dock as we went aboard was 
slippery with snow and ice. There was the usual 
crowd and confusion before departure. Those going 
could not be distinguished, till the bell rang to clear 
the ship, from the friends who had accompanied 
them to take leave. 

It was bitter cold as we proceeded down New York 
harbor. The steamer discharged the pilot at Sandy 
Hook, and encountered at once heavy seas, which 
speedily drove all the passengers to the seclusion of 
their state rooms. Very few appeared at the table the 
next morning, and taking it altogether Thursday was 
a very uncomfortable day. Friday morning we were 
in the Gulf Stream, the weather was mild and pleas- 
ant, the passengers all on deck enjoying the mild 
balmy air, and it was a sudden transition from winter 
to spring. 

The delightful change in the weather had a pleas- 
ing effect upon the spirits of the ship's company ; 
passengers whom we had not before seen, came from 
the retirement of their stateroom to the deck, wraps 
and overcoats were discarded, and there was no need 
to pace the deck to keep warm. By noon, under the 
genial influence of the sun, we became more and 



4 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

more affable. In a surprising short time we made 
ourselves at home, striking up acquaintance with and 
confiding in one another, in the manner of old 
friends. 

We entered the Gulf Stream 60 miles south of 
Cape May, when 190 miles out, and for 150 miles 
were crossing its axis ; passing, midway between 
Charlestown, S. C. and Hamilton, the capital of the 
Bermudas, where the current runs the strongest. 

The southern limit of the Gulf Stream was reached 
250 miles further, about sunrise Saturday morning, 
Cape Hatteras having been passed about 10 o'clock 
Friday night. Sunday the sea was calm and smooth 
in the morning ; in the afternoon the northeast: trade 
winds were felt, and the next day, Monday, large 
quantities of gulf-weed from the Saragasso Sea were 
passed. Tuesday, the sixth day out, flying fish was 
noticeable, and in the evening Culebrita Light was 
sighted ; later, the curious Sail Rock, resembling 
a ship, was passed. Porto Rico with the adjacent 
Culebra and Crab Islands was in sight to the west ; 
and St. Thomas, with St. John's and other of the Vir- 
gin Islands, to the east. At 9 p. m. the anchor was 
dropped in the harbor at Frederickstaed, St. Croix. 

Now we are in the Caribbean sea among the islands 
of the Caribs and the Cannibals. What memories of 
the past and strange scenes, come floating before our 
vision. As we look back into the history of these 
islands, a shadowy procession of great figures pre- 
sents itself. Columbus and Cortez and Las Casas, 
the millions of Indians extermin ated by the Spaniards 
who formerly occupied these islands, the black swarms 
who were poured in to take their places, the frightful 
story of the slave trade, the thousands of white slaves 
sent here to their death, the papal bull bestowing on 
Spain all the countries within the tropics west of the 
Atlantic. The English and French Protestants who 
took to the sea like water dogs and challenged their 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CAR IB BEE ISLANDS. 5 

enemies in their own special domain, here met the 
Spainards gorged with plunder and wading in blood. 
Here Drake and Hawkins interrupted the golden 
stream which flowed from Panama into the exchequer 
of Madrid, and furnished Philip with the means to 
carry on his war with the Reformation. It was not 
the Crown or the Government which fought these 
battles, it was the people of England with their own 
hands and their own resources. Buccaneers, pirates 
or privateers, whatever we may call them, they were 
the sea-warriors of the Reformation, when the nations 
of the earth were breaking the chain in which king 
and priest had bound them, uncommissioned, un- 
recognized, fighting on their own responsibility, liable 
to be disowned if they failed, while the outlawed 
pirate of one year was promoted the next to be a 
governor. The Caribbean Sea was the cradle of the 
Naval Empire of Great Britian ; in these waters men 
were formed and trained who drove the Armada 
through the Channel into wreck and ruin. Had the 
Armada succeeded there would have been no United 
States today. North America would have been 
Spanish and French. In these waters in the cen- 
turies which followed, France and England fought 
for the ocean empire, and England won it ; and that, 
too, on the day when her own politicians' hearts had 
failed them, when she had lost thirteen of her richest 
and most prosperous colonies, when all the powers 
of the world had combined to humiliate her. It was 
then that Rodney shattered the French fleet in the 
Caribbean sea, saved Gibralter, and avenged York- 
town. 

From the time the steamer enters the Gulf Stream 
the weather is all that could be desired ; for the first 
two days of the voyage the clothing worn aboard of 
the vessel at New York is needed then middle weight 
without overcoats; on reaching the islands the lightest 
summer garments with shade hats or sun umbrellas 



6 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

are a necessity for comfort, the mercury ranging at 
80 ° or above. 

The steamers stop long enough at each port to 
allow one to see most of the sights, giving a very 
satisfactory glimpse of each island ; the tourist how- 
ever cannot take all the long excursions, the run 
between the islands being made by night. 

SANTA CRUZ. 

At Santa Cruz or St. Croix (Danish, 19 by 5 miles ; 
84 square miles area, 42,000 population) the ship 
anchors \ mile from shore at West End, official name 
Frederickstaed. Boats put off from shore and land 
passengers for 25 cents each. The post office is to 
the left on landing, a daily news cablegram is bullet- 
ined here; the telegraph office is in the old fort, just 
beyond. Cable rates by W. I. and Panama Tel. Co. 
are very high throughout the islands ; rate within the 
island is 20 cents. The currency is Danish West 
Indian, reckoned by cents. American gold and silver 
pass with little difficulty cent for cent. There are 
no livery stables ; private parties however let their 
carriages, buggies, and two-seated carriages, and 
riding ponies can be had; the charge is eight dollars 
or so for a double team across the island ; for shorter 
trips in single buggies, a dollar or so an hour, or by 
distance. Excellent meals to order and room accom- 
modations are obtainable at Mrs. Du Bois. In the 
town, (picturesque with yellow and pink arcaded 
buildings and with the ruins from the insurrection of 
the blacks, Oct. 1st, 1878) see the old fort, the 
Roman Catholic church, the market, the shell heap 
on the beach, the fishing boats with strange fishes 
of brilliant color. 

Opposite Mrs. Du Bois's the U. S. frigate Monon- 
gahela, was left high and dry in the town, so it took 1 1 
months to get her off, by the tidal wave 60 feet high 
accompanying the earthquake of Nov. 18, 1867. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 7 

The drives to Mt. Victory, (returning by Annerley, 
under tropical foliage with fine views, six miles 
around), to the shell beaches at Butler's bay and Ham 
Point, (four miles and return), and its neighboring 
sugar plantations, are interesting. Across the island, 
fifteen miles along a good road lined with cocoanut 
and cabbage palms, is Bassin (Christianstaed), the 
capital of the Danish West Indies, half way across is 
the Carson's plantation. Bethlehem, probably so 
called from an early Moravian settlement, is one of 
the three vacuum-pan sugar factories of the island. 
At Bassin, a picturesque Italian-looking town, see 
the Governor-General's residence, with superb view 
from stone terrace ; and if Mrs. Prentheny is tele- 
gaphed to from West End, she will prepare a delight- 
ful lunch or dinner. The best bay rum, guava jelly, 
limes, the " peanut " shaped baskets from Tortola, 
and calabashes, may be bought at this island. Eng- 
lish is spoken here almost as much as Danish. The 
present Frederickstaed is but the ruins of a much 
more substantial town. During the uprising of the 
blacks in 1878 the island was swept by incendiaries, 
scarcely a building or a plantation being spared ; 
many of the plantations are abandoned, and will in a 
few years be covered with wood. The island is of 
little use to Denmark. There are but two Danish 
planters on the island, most of the planters are Eng- 
lish, Scotch, American, and Irish. Danish authority 
is represented by thirty-five soldiers in the fort. 

About midnight the clank of the cable in the hawse 
pipe announces the weighing of the anchor. Land is 
hardly ever out of sight in this cruise among the 
Caribbees, one island no sooner turns gray in the 
distance than another reveals itself with a repetition 
of the waving palms and volcanic mountains steeped 
in every shade of green. The Caribbee Islands are 
like stepping-stones cast into the sea. The English 
apply the name, West Indies, to all the islands which 



8 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

separate the Atlantic Ocean from the Caribbean Sea 
and the gulf of Mexico, and divide the group known 
as the Windward Islands into two lesser groups ; 
naming the islands between Porto Rico and Martin- 
ique, the Leeward, and those between Martinique and 
the Orinoco, the Windward Islands. The archipel- 
ago, thus subdivided, is also known as the Caribbee 
Islands ; and by the Americans the whole group is 
called the "Windward Islands." 

Leaving Santa Cruz, the ship after some hours 
sights Saba (Dutch, 2 J miles diameter, 2,820 feet 
high, 2,000 population including two policemen) the 
striking rock whose inhabitants reach their tiny vil- 
lage by steps cut in the rocks and who build in " The 
Bottom " of the crater boats which they let down by 
ropes. Then she nears St.Eustatius,or Statia (Dutch, 
4I by 2 miles, 1,950 feet high,2,884 population) also evi- 
dently a volcanic island, and presently approaches St. 
Kitts with its great volcanic peak, Mt. Misery, 4,314 
feet high, with an accessible crater 800 or more feet 
deep, its crevices still emitting sulphur fumes. The 
ship passes Sandy Point and Old Roads, between 
which rises the curious Brimstone Hill, the Gibralter 
of the West Indies, dismantled in 185 1, which hill, 
the natives say, was thrown bodily from the crater of 
Mt. Misery. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE C A RIB BEE ISLANDS. 



CHAPTER II. 



ST. KITTS AND NEVIS. 



St. Christopher's (English, 23 by 5 miles, 68 
square miles area, 28,470 population) is reached at 
Basseterre in twelve hours run, 128 miles, from West 
End, Santa Cruz. The island was named by Colum- 
bus in 1493, after his own patron saint. Numerous 
boatmen ask one shilling each to go ashore, and take 
less for parties. Landing at the Custom House wharf, 
you reach a tiny " circus " or plaza with palms and 
clock ; along the street to the left are the post office 
and the hotel, and at the end the very interesting mar- 
ket place. The street directly back from the water leads 
to St. George's Church, (called the finest in the West 
Indies), to the Moravian Church, and to out-lying 
plantations. Mr. Lyons, the photographer, is near 
this street. The street to the right brings one to 
the really fine public garden, with its noble banyan 
tree. Carriages are to be had at the livery stable at 
moderate rates. 

The currency is English money, which can be had 
for 20s. 6d. or more to $5.00, at the bank at the cor- 
ner of the circus. At each end of the town are Half- 
moon Battery and Fashion Fort. Either Monkey Hill 
or the ravine up the mountains beyond the Elosia 
plantation affords an interesting walk. The pro- 
prietors of the Pogson estate at • Old Roads 
are pleased to show this fine sugar estate to 
travellers. The finest drives are across to the 



10 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

windward side of the island to Cayon, or south to 
Frigate Bay, or north to Brimstone Hill ; but these 
can be better reached from Sandy Point or Old 
Roads, if the ship stops at either: there is a long 
drive of thirty miles circling the greater part of the 
island. The white peacock of St. Kitts may be seen 
at Captain Rogers' near Ola Roads, Mr. Wigley's 
near Frigate Bay, or at houses nearer town. Cocoa- 
nuts, limes, cassava bread, and calabashes are to be 
bought here. 

Basseterre, the capital of St. Kitts, is a town of 
about sixteen hundred dwelling houses and seven 
thousand inhabitants. Some of the dwelling houses 
of Basseterre stand in the middle of gardens shut in 
from view by high unsightly stone walls, after the cus- 
tom prevailing in England, and which is provokingly 
imitated in many West Indian town by those most 
hospitable people in the world, the British West 
Indians. The palms rear their graceful crowns high 
overhead ; mangos, tamarinds, Ceibas and an endless 
variety of beautiful tropical trees lift their branches 
above the enclosures ; the broad leaves of bananas and 
plantains wave like banners in the air ; here and 
there flamboyant trees in full bloom, covered with 
magenta blossoms, present a startling contrast to the 
net work of green foliage that surrounds them. 
Through gateways, sometimes through spaces left by 
falling walls, one can occasionally catch glimpses in 
these wonderful gardens of fruits and flowers, of ferns 
in bewildering and beautiful variety, and of roses and 
lilies, rare plants to be seen only in greenhouses of 
grand domains or public gardens, at the North. 

Nothing can exceed in loveliness and grandeur, the 
views to be obtained from the road that runs from 
Basseterre in a southeasterly direction as it climbs a 
gentle ascent to the crest of the island, where the 
Atlantic is to be seen stretching away as far as the eye 
can reach. Thence the highway gradually descends 



12 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

to the windward shore, and trends towards the north, 
continuing along the east coast of St. Kitts, with the 
ocean on one hand and the forest and mountains on 
the other. Thus it completes the circuit of the island, 
re-entering Basseterre from the north, on the western 
or leeward shore. 

From this road, at its highest elevation, can be 
seen a plain, dotted with dark cool groves and great 
sugar plantations, gardens of orange trees and flower- 
ing shrubs. Picturesque planter's houses and negro 
cabins, half hidden beneath the shade of palm and 
evergreen trees, are scattered along the road or are 
approached through lanes walled in by hedges of 
prickly pear and tangled rows of bushes. From the 
midst of them the agave,or sisal plant, shoots up here 
and there, its pole crowned with flowers. 

The two men to whom the English colonization of 
America is chiefly due are Thomas Warner, the son 
of a Suffolk yeoman and a John Winthrop of Groton, a 
Suffolk Squire. These were the great leaders who 
lured men from the Old to the New World, and 
planted them in the latter by the hundreds and 
thousands. 

The first settlement by the English in the West 
Indies was under the leadership of Thomas Warner, 
who landed at Old Roads, St. Kitts, in January, 1623. 
Barbados is sometimes mentioned as the oldest Eng- 
lish settlement in the West Indies; but this is an 
error, as the first attempt to plant Barbados was 
made by Sir William Courteen's party at the close of 
1624, nearly two years after. 

Englishmen who were venturesome enough to 
make settlements in the West Indies in the early 
part of the seventeenth century did so at their peril, 
for the Spanish still continued the claim of an exclus- 
ive right to the continent and islands of the New 
World, which they had set up at the time of the 
discovery, and which had been confirmed to them by 



'J) 




TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 13 

Papal Bull. The Spaniards had neglected to settle 
on the smaller islands ; for the empire which Cortez 
and Pizarro had conquered in Mexico and Peru, to- 
gether with the islands of San Domingo, Jamaica, 
and Cuba, had greater attraction for them than the 
islands of the savage, man-eating Caribs 

If the way was not clear for the English colonists 
to settle in the West Indies, it had at all events been 
found by many a hero who had fought against the 
Armada, that the Caribbean Sea was a happy hunting- 
ground for Spanish treasure ships. They resorted to 
these islands from time to time for wood and water, 
or as a mustering place. 

The old methods of the treatment of the Indians by 
the whites were again repeated at St. Kitts. The set- 
tlers were welcomed by the Carib chief, Togreman, 
as the Pilgrims were at Plymouth by Massasoit, three 
years before, and the same result followed. Having 
learned or imagined that the natives had prepared a 
scheme for their destruction, the settlers fell upon 
them and slew one hundred and twenty of their stout- 
est men. Then, having selected a few of their come- 
liest women for slaves, they drove the remainder of 
the aboriginal population off the island: — this affair 
took place in 1626. After a short interval the ban- 
ished Caribs returned with reinforcements from dif- 
ferent islands, in the belief that they could conquer 
their enemy in fair battle. They estimated their 
power too highly. A most sanguinary battle ensued, 
the conflict being sharp and decisive. The settlers 
lost upwards of one hundred soldiers,and the unfortu- 
nate Caribs lost thousands. Henceforth the ancient 
possessors of the island left the intruders in undis- 
puted possession of it. 

For some years no ship sailed from England with- 
out emigrants to St. Kitts. The number of these 
adventurers was so great, that, having fairly settled 
the English district of St. Kitts, Warner began to 



14 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

settle Nevis in 1628, and Antigua and Montserrat 
in 1632. 

In 1625 Warner was granted a commission, to be 
the " King's Lieutenant of the Caribbee Islands " 
and during his visit to England he was knighted by- 
Charles I. in 1629. 

In 1625 a French brigantine arrived at Kitts in a 
crippled condition ; her commander, D'Esnambuc, 
having gallantly engaged a Spanish war vessel of 
greater strength. The English, having first driven 
the warlike Caribs off the island, felt sure they would 
return again to avenge themselves. Warner wel- 
comed the French to make a settlement ; and they, 
liking the idea, the island was divided between them, 
the French settling at Basseterre and the English at 
Sandy Point and Old Roads. For the prevention of 
disputes, the island was divided between them ; when 
on May 3, 1637 by the "Treaty of Partition," (with 
the exception that they had equal rights to certain 
common roads, and shared other privileges), the two 
colonies were distinct communities. Each had its own 
governor, parliament and army; each had its own 
laws ; and in some particulars the laws of one settle- 
ment differed greatly from the laws of another. In 
fact, the allied colonies were two distinct nations, 
dangerously near, and it was not long before the 
English bitterly repented of their former generosity. 

This mutual distrust and jealousy often broke out 
in war of the most bitter and vindictive kind. The' 
English were driven out by the French and Dutch 
in 1665 and again in 1689; but eight months later 
General Codrington gained a signal victory over the 
French, and transported eighteen hundred of their 
people to Martinique and Hispaniola. Again in 1705 
the estates of the English planters were laid waste by 
the French soldiers ; but by the treaty of Utrecht, in 
1 713, the whole island was secured to Great Britain. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARTRBEE ISLANDS. 15 

At the time of Sir Thomas Warner's death, in 
1648, the English population of St. Kitts was esti- 
mated at thirteen thousand. The astonishing success 
of this colony was the source of fierce and vindictive 
jealousy to France and Spain, and unamiable morti- 
fication to the English settlers in Virginia and New 
England, who saw themselves so greatly surpassed 
by their countrymen on this and the adjoining 
islands. 

Before the introduction of negro slavery into St. 
Kitts, the planters were forced to depend upon white 
servants for labor on the plantation. The supply 
was obtained from two sources : indentured servants 
who had sold their services for four years, and con- 
victs who were sold for a term of eight years. The 
settlements on the mainland obtained their servants 
from the same sources. A recent publication, con- 
taining letters from the first settlers of St. Kitts 
throws much light on this subject. One of the 
writers says :* " For a taylor, a carpenter, a joynor, 
a smith, which are the trades most necessary here, 
I would allow to such a one, when a good workman, 
a thousand pounds of sugar wages for each yeare that 
he should serve me, with what must be paid for their 
passages, tools or instruments. For one that can 
handle his pen — he may deserve as much, but we 
seldome give it because such men are plenty and 
have other advantages. As for labourers and menial 
servants, theire passages being payd, they must 
expect only food, raiment and lodging, until theire 
terme (which is never less than foure yeares) be 
expired, and thereby the laws and customs of the 
island they are to have four hundred pounds of sugar 
to begin the world with. And if Newgate and Bride- 
well should spew out their spawne into these 
islands, it would meete with no lesse encouragement ; 

*" A Young Squire of the Seventeenth Century. From the papers of Christo- 
pher Jefferson, 1676,-1686." London, 1878., 



16 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

for no goale-bird can be so incorrigable but there is 
hope of his conformity here, as well as his prefer- 
ment." 

"I believe you may find Scotch and English that 
would willingly change theire clymate upon the 
aforementioned terms. Scotchmen and Welchmen 
we esteeme the best servants, and the Irish the 
worst, many of them good for nothing but mischief." 

The planters were under ;£ioo bonds for the safe 
delivery and custody of each convict for eight years. 
The following interesting description of a shipment 
of them is from the same source : " Upon Easter 
Eve I went to Newgate to receive the malefactors. 
So we had delivered to us thirty-eight prisoners, viz., 
twenty-nine men (most of them sturdy and rugged 
fellows), and nine women (likely to make good serv- 
ants.) There are about seven of them which have 
followed sea-affairs, and will make Captain Foster 
watchful in the voyage, and the masters of the shal- 
lops careful of their boats when they are upon the 
island. Captain Foster will inform your Honor of 
their names, but if he should talk of it on the island 
it might hinder the sale of them, for nobody, I sup- 
pose, will be desirous to buy a servant that has that 
convenience of freeing himself by the first boat he 
can steal. John Walker says he is a shoemaker. 
Silvan Morris was a soldier, condemned for killing 
his comrade, Henry List is a weaver, Francis Abrams 
is a cook. These, with the mariners, are all the men 
with professions I know. But Captain Foster may 
discover more of their good qualities on the voyage. 
But they certainly are a parcel of as notorious vil- 
laines as any transported this long tyme. As they 
went down to the water side, notwithstanding a 
guard of thirty men, they committed several thefts, 
snatching away hats, perrewigs, etc., from several 
persons whose curiosity led them into the crowd. 
They were all searched when they came aboard, but 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CAR IB BEE ISLANDS. 17 

what the captaine found about them he best knows." 
The name of Sir Thomas Warner, the first gov 
ernor of the Caribbee Islands stands forth the most 
prominently of any in West Indian history. His 
descendants in the twelfth generation continue to 
flourish in the West Indies, where the old English 
family has made itself a home for more than two 
hundred and seventy years. He lies buried in St. 
Thomas' churchyard in St. Kitts. No public monu- 
ment has been erected, and what is legible is on a 
shattered tombstone. The neglected condition of 
his grave reflects the utmost discredit upon the 
inhabitants of St. Kitts. 



IS STARR'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 



CHAPTER III. 

NEVIS, ANTIGUA AND MONTSERRAT. 



Nevis (English, 7 by 6 miles, 37 square miles area, 
highest land Ben Nevis 3,596 feet, 11,000 population, 
mostly black) almost adjoins St. Kitts ; the ship in 
1 J hours (15 miles) from Basseterre, reaches the 
Roads of Charlestown, anchoring a mile from shore. 
There are a few boats that take passengers ashore 
for a shilling each. The town everywhere shows 
signs of past greatness, and the island is studded with 
ruins of noble country-houses. The white popula- 
tion at one time amounted to 4,000 ; now there are 
scarcely 100. Once the total population was 20,000; 
now it is 12,000, including a few hundred coolies. 
As you go from the wharf, the road to the left leads 
to St. Paul's Church and school ; that to the right, 
passes a tiny square, the post office, and a hotel. 
About a third of a mile out is a fine sulphur bath and 
the superb ruins of a great stone edifice, (built in 1803 
for a hotel at a cost of ,£40,000, and sold a few years 
since for £40), with fine views from its terraces. 

To this grand establishment used to resort a gay 
company of pleasure seekers and such as desired to 
make trial of the healing waters which boil up in the 
midst of the garden. Long ago in its palmy days, 
Nevis was the Bath and Saratoga of the Caribbees, 
and to it annually came the youth and beauty, 
the crabbed and gouty old age, and the wealth and 
fashion of the West Indian world. In those days 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 19 

sugar was king ; his courtiers, the planters, derived 
the income of princes from grand estates. Nevis was 
also one of the principal slave marts of the Wind- 
ward Islands, and consequently before the days of 
emancipation and beet sugar there was abundant 
wealth and luxury, and a high degree of magnificence 
at the court of King Sugar whose summer palace the 
old ruin used to be. 

The hotel, squarely and solidly built, two hundred 
feet in length by one hundred in width and several 
stories high, was surrounded on each floor by ver- 
andas. The ceilings were more than twenty feet in 
height, and the chambers of grand proportions; 
a wide hall opened through the middle of it, and flights 
of easy stairs led from story to story. The glory of 
it has departed, its verandas have fallen, its windows 
and casements have been long since used for fire- 
wood, the stairs are broken, the roof admits the rain 
in many an opening chink, it is a picture of desola- 
tion and decay — one's footsteps echo dismally through 
the empty habitation. Here was the ball room, here 
the dining hall, and that old tumble-down out build- 
ing the kitchen. Down the bank in front of the 
main structure had been an Italian garden, with its 
rose and flower beds, its ferneries and stucco stat- 
uary ; yonder is the dry and cracked basin of what 
was once a pond swarming with gold fish. Near the 
wine cellar are the ruins of a turtle crawl ; at the 
side door is a moss grown-stone block where the 
young ladies mounted their ponies and gaily rode 
away. Down in the ravine through which flows the 
little stream concealed in a thicket of tamarind and 
mango trees is the bath house, a substantial building 
two stories in height and still in a good state of 
preservation. The upper floor is a toilet room clean 
but bare of furniture ; in the lower story is the hot 
bath, a great tank twenty by thirty feet in size, filled 
with crystal clear water of a temperature of about 



20 ST A A'K'S HIS TOR Y A ND G UIDE 

ioo degrees Fahrenheit. Here on paying a small 
fee to the attendant the visitor partakes of one of 
the greatest luxuries to be had in the West Indies. 
The water is soft and soothing in its effect, warm 
enough to cause one to set foot in gingerly. It holds 
in solution a little sulphur, possessing a property that 
renders the use of soap unnecessary, and is very 
mollifying to the skin. It is said to be good for 
rheumatism, gouty complaints and cutaneous dis- 
orders, and is used with great benefit by a few visitors. 

About two miles from the town on the left-hand 
side of the road as you go up the mountain, is the 
church in which it is incorrectly stated that Admiral 
Nelson married the widow of Dr. Nisbet, the daughter 
of Mr. Herbert the President of the island. As a 
matter of fact, Admiral Nelson was married very 
quietly, not to say privately, in a house a short distance 
from the church on March n, 1807. 

Nevis is the birth-place of one of the greatest men 
of the Revolution ; whom John Marshall ranks next 
to Washington, as having rendered more conspicuous 
service to the United States than any other man of 
his period. A great orator, a talented lawyer, a good 
soldier, " master of every field he entered," the ablest 
political teacher of his day, Alexander Hamilton was 
the deviser and establisher of the government of the 
United States; the precocious youth who framed the 
Constitution, who urged and secured its adoption by 
the original States at a time when but a rope of sand 
bound them together. He lived long enough to see the 
nation to which he gave political stability submitting 
itself in entire respect and confidence to the declara- 
tions contained in the most remarkable document 
ever written, which, had it not been for his study 
and foreknowledge, would have taxed the skill of the 
wisest of all his contemporaries to formulate. Be- 
yond question this native of Nevis was one of the 
greatest men who ever saw the light in the western 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 21 

hemisphere. What man ever addressed himself to a 
grander labor than the inventing of a form of govern- 
ment for an already great nation? What man ever 
brought to his self imposed task greater abilities and 
more remarkable talents? Is it any wonder then, 
that when Americans set foot on the shores of Nevis 
they are inspired with feelings of reverence. Alex- 
ander Hamilton was born of Scottish parentage on 
this island on January n, I757> His father died 
while he was yet a child; his mother did not long sur- 
vive her husband, leaving her boy an orphan in indigent 
circumstances. In 1772 he bade a final adieu to 
Nevis and sailed for Boston where he arrived in 
October, thence he went to New York, where in his 
sixteenth year he entered King's, now Columbia, 
college. On the breaking out of the American re- 
bellion he recruited a company of artillery under a 
commission from the State of New York; and in less 
than five years after his arrival in America he was a 
lieutenant-colonel on Washington's staff, being then 
only in his twentieth year. There is no need here to 
follow the career of this remarkable man up to the 
time of his untimely death at the hands of Aaron Burr. 
The honor and renown which attach to his name are 
as enduring as the grand mountain of his native 
island. 



ANTIGUA. 

Antigua, (English, 13 by 9 miles, highest land 
1339 feet, 108 square miles area, 35,000 population) 
is reached in four hours run, 40 miles from Nevis or 
St. Kitts, whence it can be seen. The ship pass- 
ing Sandy Island Light, comes to anchor more than 
two miles from the city of St. John's, whose harbor is 
barred by a coral reef only fifteen feet under water. 
Boatmen charge from 2 to 3s. each to shore and 



22 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

return, a government steam launch sometimes takes 
passengers at 4s. the round trip, or 3s. single journey. 
To the north of this fine harbor are the spacious leper 
and insane hospitals; aside from leprosy, this island is 
reputed the healthiest in the West Indies. The 
boats land at a quay to the left of which is the market. 
The chief sight is the fine English cathedral, rebuilt 
in 1845 on the high ground at the back of the town, 
at a cost of .£40,000. It has double walls as a pre- 
vention against earthquakes, and two fine towers from 
which a fine view is had. Near by are the Exhibition 
Gardens, now used for tennis courts, the Episcopal 
residence of the Bishop of the Leeward Islands, Rt. 
Rev. C. H. Branch, and the church college. The post 
office is on the main street, with public library over- 
head. Dr. Edwards and others have private gardens. 
The hotels are the Scotia, Globe, and Albion. Car- 
riages are scarce and expensive, the favorite drive is 
down the Valley Road to the south. 

The Caribbee Islands are divided into two distinct 
classes, the mountainous, to which St. Kitts, Nevis 
and Dominica belong, with their grand summits soar- 
ing heavenward, of volcanic formation ; and Auguilla, 
Barbuda, Antigua and Barbados, which are largely of 
coral formation, comparatively low, undulating and 
flat. All the other Caribbees, with the exception 
of these four, rise from the ocean in steep acclivities 
and precipices, rent by gloomy chasms, divided by 
valleys, most of them hiding their tops in cloudland, 
whence they draw down super-abundant moisture 
which might well be spared to refresh the sunny parch- 
ing plains of the coral islands. Antigua was long ago 
entirely denuded of primeval forests; the centre of the 
island is low and flat, is exceedingly fertile, the ver- 
dant meadows and savannahs alternate with cultivated 
cane pieces. This low land contains petrified forests 
consisting of nearly every variety of wood now grow- 
ing on the Caribbee Islands. A short distance from 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 23 

town is a valley of petrifaction ; here may be obtained 
very beautiful specimens of cedar, palm, mangrove, etc. 
etc , completely silicified with veins of chalcedony 
and agate. 

The coast of Antigua is indented by shallow coves 
and land locked bays of which English Harbor is the 
most beautiful. 

Antigua was discoved by Columbus, who, after 
giving it its name, deserted the island. It was unex- 
plored until Charles I, of England, granted it to the 
Earl of Carlisle. Sir Thomas Warner, the Governor of 
St. Kitts, colonized Antigua in 1632 and for eight 
years the colony prospered. Then it had the same ill 
fortune that befell the New England colonies at the 
same period and through the same causes. On account 
of the ill treatment of the natives on the neighboring 
island, the Caribs came in their war canoes and made 
great slaughter of the settlers, carrying off in their 
retreat many women and children, among them the 
wife and baby of the governor. It is useless to depict 
the wrath and despair of the husband, nor the details 
of the pursuit he at once organized; it is stated 
that he sought her out, traced her to the Carib retreat, 
a cave up in the mountains of Domnica, by fragments 
of clothing torn from her by cruel thorns, and event- 
ually succeeded in returning with her. She had been 
weeks in captivity, but had been well treated. Dur- 
ing the century and a half of almost incessant war 
between England and France, Antigua was often 
attacked by the Caribs, who were stirred up to war by 
the French in Martinique, in the same manner as 
their countrymen did in Canada, when they incited 
the Indians to hostility against the English. While 
John Winthrop of Groton Hall, England, the first 
governor of Massachusetts, was defending his colony 
against the French and Indians from Canada, his son 
Captain Samuel Winthrop, (the brother of Colonel 
Stephen Winthrop of the Parliamentary Army, also 



24 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

brother of John Winthrop who founded the city of 
New London,) was defending his plantation in An- 
tigua from the attacks of the French and Caribs. 
The Carib war raged for many years and with relent- 
less fury, as can be learned in the following incident 
narrated by Dampier, the famous buccaneer, who 
often visited these islands in his adventurous career. 
He says : 

"The Caribbees had done some spoil in our Eng- 
lish plantation in Antigua, and therefore, Governor 
Warner's son, by his wife,* took a party of men and 
went to suppress the Indians, and came to a place 
where his brother, Indian Warner,lived. Great seem- 
ing joy was there at the meeting,but how far real the 
event showed, for the English Warner, providing 
plenty of liquor and inviting his half-brother to be 
merry with him, in the midst of the entertainment 
ordered his men when a signal was given to murder 
him and all his indians, which was accordingly per- 
formed." Philip Warner was tried for the murder of 
his half-brother, but was acquitted and had his lands 
returned to him, and was restored to the honors of the 
governorship. 

What a similarity there is between this massacre 
of the Indians and one that occurred in Boston Har- 
bor about the same time. "After an interview with 
their chief Pecksnot, Myles Standish made plans to 
treacherously get all the Indians he could into his 
power and then to kill them in cold blood. He ac- 
cordingly invited them to meet him the next day in- 
side of the stockade, which the Indians did, not 
suspecting treachery. Two of the chiefs, Pecksnot 
and Whituwamut, and two other of the principal 
Indians met Standish and several of his men in a 
room where they had a talk. Suddenly Standish gave 
a signal and flung himself on Pecksnot, snatching his 
knife from his sheath on his neck and stabbing him 

♦Probably the same as was taken captive by the Indians. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 25 

with it. The door was closed and a life and death 
struggle ensued; finally all the indians were killed 
that were in the stockade except a youth of eighteen 
whom Standish subsequently hung. Standish and 
his party then returned carrying with them the head 
of Whituwamut to ornament the Plymouth Block 
House as a terror to the Indians."* 

MONTSERRAT. 

Montserrat (English, 9 by 6 miles ; 35 square miles 
area, highest land 3,002 feet, 9,000 population) is 
reached after a run of 3 hours (30 miles) from Antigua 
to the port of Plymouth. The ship anchors a third 
of a mile out; boats charge a shilling or sixpence to 
shore. The town is fairly picturesque, but small. 
The post office is to the left of the landing; good 
meals can be had at the Scotia and Albion hotels. 
No carriages are to be had, but riding ponies can be 
obtained. The road to the south, with good shore 
views, leads to the reservoir; that to the north, to St. 
John's church, just out of the village; and four miles 
beyond are the great lime estates and factory of the 
Montserrat Company, limes being the special product 
of this island. The road direct back from the town 
leads to sugar factories, and to a gap in the near hills 
which can be ascended by foot path or with ponies ; on 
St. George's hill are the ruins of old Fort George, 
from which there is a superb view of the harbor. The 
population of the island is chiefly Negro-Irish, the 
island having been settled originally by "wild Irish" ; 
by which name the native Irish was formerly known 
in order to distinguish them from the English and 
Scotch settlers in Ireland. It is not surprising there- 
fore that the descendants of the slaves that belonged 
to the Irish settlers all have Irish names and speak 

*Lonefeliow, in his " Courtship of Myles Standish," has taken advantage of the 
poet's license to glorify Standish for the part he took in this murderous outrage. 



26 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

a jargon of Irish, English and African, in which the 
brogue predominates ; they are particularly noted for 
their blarney, especially when they are offering their 
wares, or begging, in which they are adepts. 

The island of Montserrat is considered very 
healthy, the daily average of the temperature is 8o Q , 
and the average of the thermometer for the year; from 
J2° to 85 ° Fahrenheit; but the heat is never oppres- 
sive even in the summer months. 

The principal town is Plymouth, and on your right 
hand, as you enter the town, is a small fortification, 
now crumbling to ruin, which adds to the picturesque 
appearance of the approach to Plymouth from the sea. 
The surface of Montserrat is very rugged, and the 
soil is not very fertile except in certain spots ; its wind- 
ward side is bold, of a wild and barren aspect, while 
the leeward side slopes gently towards the sea, being 
laid out in plantations of lime and lemon orchards. 
There are between ten and twelve thousand acres now 
under cultivation. The highest peak, La Soufriere, at 
the south end of Montserrat, is over three thousand feet 
in height. Centre Hill rises two thousand four hun- 
dred and fifty feet in the middle of the island, and 
Silver Hill, in the north, towers nearly one thousand 
three hundred feet above the sea. 

The island was discovered by Columbus on Sunday, 
November 10, 1493 ; he named it Montserrat because 
he fancied it bore a resemblance to a mountain of that 
name in Spain. 

The white population is decreasing, being less than 
one hundred. The total exports from the island 
amount to ,£32,000, and the imports are ,£25,000, 
mostly from Great Britain and Canada. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 27 



CHAPTER IV. 

GUADELOUPE AND DOMINICA. 



Guadeloupe (French) contains a population of 
157,000, and an area of 534 square miles ; is reached 
in four hours run from Montserrat, from which it is 
distant about forty miles. 

It was discovered by Columbus and named by him 
Guadeloupe, he having promised the monks of "Our 
Lady of Guadeloupe " to name some newly discovered 
place after their convent. Landing here on the 4th 
of November, 1493, he visited a village near the shore, 
the inhabitants of which fled in affright, leaving their 
children behind in their terror and confusion. It was 
the first island in which Columbus saw the warlike 
Caribs, of whom he had heard so much in Hispaniola. 
The account he gives of their neat villages, of the 
finding here of the fragment of a vessel, and of the 
first pine-apple, is extremely interesting. 

Guadeloupe is separated into two islands, one of 
volcanic origin, uneven and mountainous, the other, 
flat and low without even a hill ; it is divided by^ a 
shallow salt water passage called the Riviere Salee. 
The banks of this creek are lined with mangroves, 
and it is one of the hottest places in the West Indies. 
Point a Pitre is situated at the southern mouth of this 
salt water river. The town is regularly built with 
broad, straight streets, with a fountain in the centre 
of the market place ; it contains a fine cathedral and 
many good stores and houses. Here is the second 



28 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

largest sugar factory in the world, the one in Egypt 
only, excelling it in size. The city having been de- 
stroyed several times by earthquakes and fire, this 
resulted in the present system of construction of 
buildings with strong, iron frames filled with brick or 
composite. 

Basseterre is the seat of government of Guadeloupe, 
as Fort de France is that of Martinique; it was 
chosen by these shrewd Frenchmen as a depot of 
government property, that other towns like that of 
Point a Pitre and St. Pierre of Martinique, may not, 
by their superior advantage for commerce and trade, 
draw all the population thither. 

The government buildings are in the upper part of 
the town, between two rivers, behind a large stone 
fort. They surround three sides of a square bordered 
by mighty palms, with an elegant fountain of bronze 
as a center piece. North and east of the town tower 
the mountains, the land commencing to rise to their 
summits at its very outskirts, the upper streets lead 
into the hills. The houses are built of stone but are 
not large or pretentious. In the center of the town 
is an open market place, in which is a fountain fed 
from the mountains, around which is a row of tama- 
rind trees. 

The cathedral, or Basiliqtie, is an old structure, built 
of stone, dating from the time of Le Pere Labat, the 
founder of this town, whose valuable book on the 
Antilles published in Paris in 1722, contains the most 
comprehensive account of these islands previous to 
that date. The old Basilique remains, in defiance of 
earthquakes and hurricanes, a monument of his 
activity and zeal ; its front, however, was rebuilt a few 
years ago. In 1703 he founded the town of Basse- 
terre, and took an active part in the defence of the 
island against the attack of the English in March of 
the same year. The " Bellicose Pere Blanc" as he 
was called by the people of the island could not pre- 
vent his monastery from being burned by the enemy, 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CAR IB BEE ISLANDS. 29 

by which disaster his valuable collection of books, 
manuscripts and instruments was lost. 

Beyond the government buildings is the Convent of 
Versailles, where the girls of the island are educated; 
and higher up, occupying a broad plateau, some fifteen' 
hundred feet above the sea, is the summer camp of 
the governor and troops. Spacious buildings, includ- 
ing a hospital, barracks and governor's house, are 
almost hidden by trees, among which the palm tower 
conspicuous, with its gray column and green coronet. 

Guadeloupe contains one of the largest and most 
active volcanos in the West Indies. The Soufriere, 
as the French call it, is over five thousand feet above 
the sea. A recent writer* who made the ascent, de- 
scribes it as follows : 

" Beyond the limits of the coffee groves we came 
upon the borders of the high-woods, where one must 
go to see the vegetation of the tropics in its greatest 
growth and luxurience. As you set foot over the 
sharply defined line of demarkation, you leave the 
sun with his scorching beams behind, and enter a 
gloomy arch beneath a canopy of leaves. The trail is 
sinuous and slippery, overhead is a leafy vault through 
which the sun cannot send a gleam, save now and 
then a needle ray, and through this vaulted roof are 
thrust up the trunks of mighty trees with a diameter 
from buttress to buttress, of twenty feet. No sound 
broke the solemn stillness of this mountain forest save 
the cooing of a distant wood pigeon, and nothing 
showed itself except an occasional mountain part- 
ridge as it flitted like a ghost across our path. Up 
and higher we ascended, the trees diminished in size, 
and there came to our ears the sound of falling waters. 
The wild plantain with broad green leaves and spikes 
of crimson and golden cups now lined the trail, and 
glorious tree ferns in majesty of beauty unsurpassed, 
spread their leaves above them. We reached the 

*Camp in the Caribbees, by Fred A. Ober, Boston, 1886. 



30 S TA RK'S HIS TOR Y AND G UIDE 

stream, and found it warm, so hot that vapor arose on 
this not too cool atmosphere, it was also sulphur im- 
pregnated. The luxurience of the vegetation here 
was marvelous and pen of mine cannot describe the 
beauty of the ferns, orchids and parasites, arches and 
bridges of tropical trees and ferns that overhung and 
spanned the torpid stream. Here we plunged anew 
into a depth of greenwood and commenced an ascent 
that for steepness left all former paths behind. We 
had to lift ourselves up by successive broad steps and 
cling to roots and trees for aid; Emerging from the 
darkness of this tunnel-like passage, we came upon 
another zone of vegetation where the trees were 
dwarfed to shrubs, and so interwined and matted to- 
gether that a path had to be cut with the cutlass. 
We found this path washed into deep cistern-like cav- 
ities down which we descended on one side only to 
climb out at the other. Emerging upon a small plain, 
we looked up and saw the cone whose side we fain 
would climb, the path so steep, it seemed impossible 
to ascend it. There was no vegetation now to ob- 
struct the view. For an hour and a half, with many 
stops for breath, we mounted upwards, then my tac- 
turn guide pointed out a narrow ledge where a man 
died of exhaustion, and was found at midnight by my 
informant who was in search of him, on his knees 
with his face covered with his hands. 

We followed the narrow path over sounding rocks 
that told of caverns beneath, and reached a dark 
chasm so deep that we could not see the bottom of 
the dark abyss until we stood upon a narrow bridge of 
rock that spanned the central space. After crossing 
the bridge we scaled the opposite cliff and were 
greeted at the top with loud blasts and snorts like 
those of a high pressure steamer, and volumes of 
vapor thrown in our faces. Following this, I found 
an aperture in a mound of stone sulphur lined, through 
which was forced a column of steam with noises so 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 31 

loud that we could not hear each other speak. This 
aperture is in the center of a desolate area having on 
its borders numerous openings whence issue blasts of 
hot air that taint the atmosphere for many feet around. 
I peered into one, arched like an oven, and it was like 
a glimpse into the arcana of nature, for the whole in- 
terior was encrusted with sulphur crystals, glistening 
like yellow topaz and a small black passage led down 
into unknown depths, whence issued rumblings, 
groans and grumblings. Up from this black throat 
came such blasts of old Vulcan's fetid breath, that I 
was glad to escape with only a few crumbling crystals 
for my pains. Ravines seam the sides of the cone in 
every direction, some spanned by natural bridges of 
rock. That by which we entered was the central 
gorge, with its wicked looking throat from whence 
there has been two eruptions recorded, one in 1797, 
the other in 181 5. Doubtless it will again at some 
future time act as the vent for the internal ebulitions 
of mother earth." 

On leaving Guadeloupe for Dominica, the coast is 
seen in all its grandeur of lofty cliffs, towering moun- 
tains, curving bays and palm-bordered beaches. 

DOMINICA. 

Dominica, (English) 29 by 16 miles ; highest land, 
Mount Diablotin, 5,314 feet, the highest mountain in 
the Caribbean Archipelago. Dominica has a coast 
line of over 100 miles, and is distant from Martinique 
about 30 miles. Number of inhabitants, 30,000 : lan- 
guage, a mixture of French and English. 

There are no wheeled vehicles on the island, but 
ponies can be procured at a moderate price at Roseau, 
the principal town of the island; visitors should by all 
means avail themselves of a ride up the mountains. 
Follow the street which leads past the jail, over an 



32 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

excellent bridge, passing under the white cliffs of St. 
Aromant, following the Roseau River which flows 
through a beautiful valley covered with banana, citron 
and lime groves to the very base of the mountain, 
then up, higher and higher, the path growing rocky 
and slippery, past the lovely valley Shawford. When 
a mile above, you enter a deep ravine where are the 
first perfect tree-ferns on the trail ; the gorge is filled 
with them, and the banks along the path are covered 
with smaller ones, infinitely beautiful. Here for the 
first time also can be heard the melody of the 
" solitaire." 

Away up among the mountains, in the interior of 
the island, is the Boiling Lake, over two thousand feet 
above sea level ; it is one of the principal wonders of 
the Caribbees, and has been visited by very few white 
men. The lake is sunk in a huge basin, the surround- 
ing walls being about one hundred feet in height, and 
the diameter of the lake about four hundred feet. It 
is usually in a wild fury of ebulition, and the basin 
filled with steam from the internal fires below, the 
water frequently being at a temperature of from one 
hundred and eighty to one hundred and ninety-six 
degrees of temperature. No bottom has been found 
at ten feet from the edge, with two hundred feet of line. 

The Soufriere is in a valley of desolation, contain- 
ing many boiling springs and pools ; it is almost im- 
possible to describe this valley and wonderful Boiling 
Lake, hid in the bosom of these solitary mountains 
in this tropical island. The time may come when the 
great attractions of these islands will be better known, 
and this locality be frequented by those afflicted with 
rheumatism and kindred complaints ; such unfortu- 
nates would no doubt derive great benefits from a 
bath in these healing waters. 

Dominica was discovered by Columbus on Sunday, 
^November 3, 1493, on his second voyage, who named 
it in honor of the Lord's day. 



34 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

Of all the West Indian Islands, Dominica is the 
most interesting to strangers. It is the most beauti- 
ful of the Antilles, and the least known. A few 
Caribs, the last of their race, with the exception of a 
remnant at St. Vincent, still linger in the forest, retain- 
ing their old lookand habits; they are skillful fishermen, 
canoe and basket makers. Their home is in the least 
explored mountain retreats and gloomiest valleys, 
forming a reservation of a thousand acres, extending 
a distance of about three miles along the Atlantic 
coast, and back into the mountains as far as 
they please to cultivate. They seldom come to the 
settlement, and have as little as possible to do with 
the whites or negroes. For hundreds of years after 
the coming of Columbus, the Caribs successfully re- 
sisted all attempts at invasion, and were only after 
ages deprived of their inheritance. Inch by inch, and 
foot by foot, the Caribs struggled for liberty in their 
mad fight for existence. 

The Caribs originally inhabited all the islands ex- 
tending from the coast of South America as far north 
as Santa Cruz ; Cuba, Haiti, Jamaica and Porto Rico 
were inhabited by a more peaceful and gentle race. 
The followers of Columbus murdered more than a 
million of these happy islanders, but they always 
evaded encounter with the "Pagan Cannibals." Thus 
to the prowess of their ancestors are the Caribs of the 
present day indebted for their existence, while not a 
vestige remains of the more numerous but peaceful 
tribes to the north of them. 

Though Dominica is the most mountainous of all 
the Antilles, it is split into many valleys of exquisite 
fertility, Through each there runs a full and ample 
river, swarming with fish, and yielding water-power 
enough to drive all the mills which industry could 
build. In these valleys, and on the rich levels along 
the shore, the French had once their cane fields, and 
orange, pineapple and indigo plantations. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARTBBEE ISLANDS. 35 

Viewed from the sea, Dominica has a singularly- 
bold and magnificant appearance. A dark irregular 
mass of lofty mountains rises abruptly from the ocean, 
as if suddenly upheaved from the deep by some 
mighty convulsion of nature. The rugged grandeur 
of the island is softened, on a nearer approach, by the 
mantle of green that everywhere covers its surface, 
from the sea margin to the tops of the highest moun 
tain. The mountains are in full sight from Guade- 
loupe, from which it is distant about thirty miles. It 
contains more obstacles to travel, to the square mile, 
than any other island of similar size in the West Indies. 
Well did Columbus illustrate its crumpled and uneven 
surface, when in answer to his Queen's inquiry re- 
garding its appearance, he crushed a sheet of paper 
in his hand and threw it upon the table. 

Roseau, the principal town, stands midway of 
the western shore. The roadstead is open ; but as the 
prevailing winds are from the northwest, the island 
forms a very good breakwater: and except on rare occa- 
sions, there is neither surf nor swell there. The land 
shelving off rapidly, a cable length from shore there is 
no soundings. The coasting vessels and steamers 
anchor close under the rocks, or alongside one of the 
jetties which are built out from the beach upon piles. 

The situation of Roseau is exceedingly beautiful ; 
looking eastward, one can see, far into the Roseau 
Valley, to the wall of mountains from which dashes 
out a great waterfall, dwindled to a mere thread in 
the distance. The Roseau River emerges in a 
plain beneath a valley filled with cane, containing in 
its centre a planter's house and buildings surrounded 
with palms. It dashes over its rocky bed with a roar, 
and runs at the foot of a high white cliff across 
another plantation into the sea near the town. 

The streets of Roseau are straight, paved with 
rough stones, but never echo to the rumble of wheels. 
They cross at right angles and dwindle down to three 



36 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

bridle-paths leading out of the town ; two respectively- 
north and south along the coast, and one, narrow and 
tortuous, over the mountains to the eastward. The 
houses are mostly of one story boxes of wood, with 
bonnet-roofs sixteen by twenty feet, many in a state 
of decay. Every street however is picturesque through 
its rough style of architecture, and cocoa-palms 
lining and terminating the vistas. The town is green 
with fruit trees ; and over broken roofs and garden 
walls of roughest masonry, hang many strange fruits. 

From the mountains flow the " Sweet River," 
containing the purest of water, led in pipes through 
ail the streets, and gushing out in never ceasing flow 
from the sea wall on the shore. The market, near 
the south end of the town, (a small square surrounded 
by stores) is the centre of attraction on Saturdays, 
when it is densely packed with country people, black 
and yellow, some of them from points a dozen miles 
away, each with his bunch of plantains or tray of 
bread-fruit. All are chattering so that there is a 
babel of sounds. 

Near the market is the fort, a low, stone structure, 
pierced with loop-holes, commanding from its high 
position the roadstead. Near the fort is the English 
Church, with a clock in its face, and four magnificent 
palms to guard its entrance. At a little distance can 
be seen the towers of the French Catholic Cathedral. 
Adjoining is the government house, in a garden of 
flowers ; and near, the court house, of stone, yellow 
and low. Opposite, on a bluff overlooking the sea, 
is the public garden, neatly enclosed and tastefully 
ornamented, containing a few large trees, many roses, 
humming birds, butterflies, and a grand view of the sea. 

The road leads by a broad, green savannah, near 
which is a ruined cemetery, down between long rows 
of lowly cabins, its bed green and grassy within a 
stone's throw of the surf on the pebbly beach. White 
Negro villages gleam among the palms along shore, 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 37 

and wooded mountains rise immediately above them. 
The old fort seems an attractive, innocent, sunny- 
sort of place for one to spend his time in ; but to 
the observer of this calm scene, it is not easy to 
realize the desperate battles which have been fought 
for the posession of it, nor to picture the gallant lives 
that have been laid down under the walls of this 
crumbling castle. These cliffs had echoed the roar of 
Rodney's guns on the day which saved the British 
Empire, and the island on which we are gazing was 
England's Gettysburg. 

When England's thirteen American colonies re- 
volted, the whole world combined to crush her. 
France, Spain and Holland, her three ocean rivals, 
determined to tear her West Indian possession from 
her. The opportunity was seized by the Irish patriots 
to clamor for Irish nationality, and by the English 
Radicals to demand liberty and the rights of man. 
It was the most critical period in later English his- 
tory : if she had yielded to peace on the terms which 
her enemies offered her, and the English Liberals 
wished to accept, the star of Great Britain would have 
set forever. 

The West Indies were then under Rodney, whose 
brilliant successes had already made his name famous. 
He had done his country more than yeoman's service, 
for he had torn the Leeward Islands from the French, 
and had punished the Hollanders for joining the 
coalition, by taking the island of St. Eustatius and 
three million's worth of stores and money. 

The patriot party in England, led by Fox and Burke, 
were ill pleased with these victories, for they wished 
to be driven into surrender. Burke denounced Rod- 
ney as he had Warren Hastings, and Rodney was 
called home to answer for himself. In his absence, 
Demerara, the Leeward Islands and Eustatius, were 
captured by the enemy. The French fleet, now su- 
preme in these waters, blockaded Lord Cornwallis at 



38 STARR'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

Yorktown, and caused his surrender, thereby ending 
the American war. 

The Spaniards had fitted out a fleet at Havana, 
and the Count de Grasse, the French Admiral, fresh 
from his victory at Yorktown, hastened back to re- 
furnish himself at Martinique, intending to join the 
Spaniards, capture Jamaica, and drive the English 
out of the West Indies. One chance remained : Rod- 
ney was ordered back to his station, and he went at 
his best speed, taking all the ships with him. The 
Whig orators were indignant. They insisted that 
England was beaten, that there had been bloodshed 
enough, and that peace must be obtained at any 
price. The Government yielded, and a pre-emptory 
order followed on Rodney's track. ''Strike your flag 
and come home." Had that fatal command reached 
him, Gibralter would have fallen, and Hastings' Indian 
Empire would have melted into thin air. But Rod- 
ney knew his time was short. Gibralter was relieved 
after a three year's siege; and before the order reached 
him, the severest naval battle in English annals had 
been fought and won under these cliffs. De Grasse 
was a prisoner, and the French fleet was scattered 
into wreck and ruin. 

De Grasse had refitted in the Martinique dock- 
yards. He himself, and every officer in the fleet was 
confident that England was overcome, and that noth- 
ing was left but to gather the fruits of the victory 
which was theirs already. All the Antilles, except 
St. Lucia, were his own. There, alone, the English 
flag still flew, as Rodney lay in the harbor of Cas- 
tries. On April 8, 1782, the signal came, from the 
north end of the island, that the French fleet had 
sailed and was becalmed under the high lands of 
Dominica. Rodney had been waiting, day by day, 
for this welcome sign; now the enemy was out at last 
he instantly got under way and followed. In number 



40 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

of ships, the fleets were equal; in size and comple- 
ment of crew, the French were immensely superior; 
moreover, they had twenty thousand soldiers on board 
to be used in the conquest of Jamaica. Knowing 
well that a defeat at that moment would be to Eng- 
land irreparable ruin, they did not dream that Rod- 
ney would be allowed, even if he wished it, to risk a 
close and desisive engagement. The English admiral 
was aware, also, that his country's fate was in his 
hands. It was one of those supreme moments which 
great men dare to use and weak men tremble at. 

A breeze, at last, came off the land; the French 
were the first to feel it, and were able to attack at ad- 
vantage the leading English division; they kept at a 
distance firing long shots, which, however, did con- 
siderable damage. 

The two following days the fleets manceuvered in 
sight of each other; on the night of the eleventh, 
Rodney made signal for the whole fleet to go south 
under press of sail, the French thinking he was 
flying. He tacked at two in the morning and at day- 
break found himself where he wished to be, with the 
French fleet on his lee quarter, in the channel which 
separates Guadaloupe from Dominica. At seven in 
the morning, April 12, 1782, the signal to engage 
was flying at the masthead of the *' Formidable," 
Rodney's flag ship. The admiral led in person: hav- 
ing passed through and broken up their order, he 
tacked again, still keeping the wind. The French, 
thrown into confusion, were unable to re-form, and the 
battle resolved itself into a number of separate en- 
gagements, in which the English had the choice of 
position. 

Rodney in passing through the enemy's lines the 
first time, had exchanged broadsides with the Glorieux, 
a seventy-four, at close range. He shot away her 
masts and bowsprit, and left her a bare hull ; as her 
flag was still flying, being nailed to a splintered spar, 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CAR IB BEE ISLANDS. 41 

so he left her unable at least to get away. After he 
had gone about he came yard arm to yard arm with 
the superb "Ville de Paris," the pride of France, and 
the largest ship in the world, on which DeGrasse 
commanded in person. All day long the cannon 
roared, and one by one the French ships struck their 
flags or fought on till they sunk. The carnage on 
board them was terrible, crowded as they were with 
troops for Jamaica. Fourteen thousand were reckoned 
as killed besides the prisoners. The "Ville de Paris" 
surrendered last, fighting desperately after all hope 
was gone, till her masts were so shattered that they 
could not bear a sail, and her decks above and below 
were littered over with mangled limbs and bodies. 
DeGrasse gave up his sword to Rodney on the For- 
midable's quarter deck. The Glorieux, unable to fly 
and seeing the battle lost, hauled down her flag, but 
not till the undisabled remnants of her crew 
were too few to throw the dead into the sea. 
Other ships took fire and blew up. Half of the 
French fleet were either taken or sunk; the rest 
crawled away for the time, most of them to be 
picked up afterwards like crippled birds. So on 
that memorable day was the English Empire saved. 
Peace^ followed, but it was peace with honor. The 
American Colonies were lost; but England kept her 
West Indies, her flag still floated over Gibralter. 
The hostile strength of Europe all combined had failed 
to wrest Britannia's ocean sceptre from her; she sat 
down maimed and bleeding, but the wreath had not 
been torn from her brows, she was, and still is, sov- 
ereign of the seas. The order of recall arrived when 
the work was done. It was proudly obeyed, and even 
the great Burke admitted that no honor could be be- 
stowed upon Rodney which he had not deserved at 
his country's hands. 



42 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 



CHAPTER V. 

MARTINIQUE AND ST. LUCIA. 



The run from Dominica to Martinique takes three 
hours, ( distance 30 miles ) to St. Pierre. Martinique 
is French, is 35 by 16 miles, 380 square miles area, 
80,000 acres under cultivation, highest peak Mt. Pelee 
4,429 feet, 1 54,000 population, and is one of the " wet " 
islands wonderful for luxuriance of tropical vegetation. 
St. Pierre the principal city of the island was situ- 
ated on the wide sweeping curve of the harbor at 
the base of the great slope that reached up to the 
summit of Mt. Pelee. It was considered one of 
the most charming and generally interesting towns 
of the Caribbean Sea. The people of St. Pierre 
were proud of the old mountain that rose behind 
the town. It was the favorite pleasure ground of 
those seeking enjoyment. A little lake had formed 
in the dead crater of Mt. Pelee. On the shores of 
this lake the pleasure seekers would eat their 
luncheon thus making a picnic-ground of the 
volcano's mouth, from which internal fires had 
burst forth in remote times. They never dreamed 
that the old mountain would do them harm. 

On the last days of April, 1902, immediately pre- 
ceding the eruption, the life of the little city of 
35,000 souls went on as usual. The awful calamity 
that the passing hours were hurrying on cast ahead 
no shadow. It is true that the mountain had begun 
to rumble and to send forth a thin column of vapor, 
but the people watching it remarked carelessly, 
"Old Pelee is smoking again" and continued their 
daily business and daily pleasure. Steamers 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 43 

dropped anchor in the open roadstead that does 
duty as a harbor. Visitors went ashore and made 
or renewed acquaintances with the care-free life 
of St Pierre. They passed or entered luxurious 
clubhouses fine shops, attractive homes of French, 
Engiish and American residents. They saw many 
fountains, religious images and statues, one of the 
most conspicuous of the latter being a gigantic 
^Christ" which overlooked the roadstead. Rising 
above the flat roofs of the surrounding houses was 
the great white dome of the Cathedral Visitors 
entered the picturesque market situated in a 
square, in the centre of which a fine fountain 
played and passing on, less than a mile from the 
city the Jardin des Plantes was reached, one of 
the most attractive in the world 

It was not until Saturday, May 3d, that con : 
servative residents of St. Pierre began to realize 
?he possibility of danger from Mt. Pelee. On this 
day bursts of fire became more frequent and expan- 
sive steam rose continuously from the crater 
boiling water poured out, hot cinders began to fall 
upon the city, the sky became darkened and a 
deep shadow came upon St. Pierre. The next day, 
Sunday, many of the inhabitants went up the long 
winding road that ascends to the summit o 
Mt Pelee. They went as near as possible to the 
crater and came back with exciting stories of the 
wonderful sights. Monday night the people were 
aroused to fresh alarm, great flames shot up con- 
tinually lighting the country for miles in vivid 
flashes and gleaming luridly through the suspended 
banks of smoke. Throughout the night a shower 
of fine hot ashes kept falling from the volcanic 
clouds. At noon on Tuesday a stream of boiling 
mud rushed out from a fissure in the side of the 
mountain and flowed down the dried bed of a river 
to the sea which lay nearly five miles below, in less 
than five minutes. On the banks of the river bed 



44 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

stood the large Guerin sugar factory, one of the 
finest on the island. The building was completely 
submerged with the boiling mud and in it many 
persons were killed. It was here that Mt. Pelee 
sent forth the first of the shafts of death that 
within four days were to annihilate the beautiful 
city and all of its inhabitants. 

And yet even after this dire calamity the people 
did not feel any very great apprehension, they 
were confident that the worst was over and that 
Mt. Pelee would again subside into slumber, just 
as it had done fifty years before. 

The alarm on the day before the explosion was 
not so great as it had been on other days. The 
people had become accustomed to. the rumbling 
sounds, the obscuring smoke and the descending 
dust and ashes. The twenty sugar factories and 
the hundred or more rum distilleries were 
in full operation. Ships were being loaded and 
unloaded in the harbor. The clubs and cafes had 
their customary number of loungers. In the even- 
ing there was the music, theatre and dances ; the 
whole gamut of gayety in St. Pierre and it was 
the last night of its existence and of the thousands 
who wooed careless pleasure there. Who could 
see the grim shadow of death that was lurking 
behind the curtain of the immediate future? Who 
knew of the awful destruction that was to follow 
the rising sun? 

The next day, May the 8th, 1902, was Ascension 
day. The majority of the people being of the 
Roman Catholic faith looked forward to a day 
of rest and pleasure when they awoke on that fatal 
morning. Very early a great many went to the 
old Cathedral, sunk on their knees in worship, 
telling their beads and murmuring a prayer. Two 
or three vessels had come into the harbor during 
the night. The P>ritish steamship "Roddam" from 
London had come in that morning. Near by lay 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CA RIB BEE ISLANDS. 45 

the Roraima, Captain Muggah, of the Quebec Line. 
She had just arrived from New York with ten 
passengers aboard and was on the point of depart- 
ure. The Ocama, Captain Seeley of the Pickford 
and Black Line departed just one hour before the 
dreadful catastrophe occurred. Other steamers 
and numerous American, French, and Italian barks 
and schooners lay in the offing. There were 
eighteen vessels laying at anchor, of these ships 
only one escaped. 

As all of the inhabitants of St. Pierre were 
destroyed with one exception, a negro prisoner 
confined in a dark cell who was rescued four days 
after the destruction of the city, therefore the 
only description we have of this catastrophe, which 
was one of the most wonderful in the history of 
the world, is from persons that were on the vessels, 
or those that were on the outskirts of the city. 
Chief Officer Scott of the "Roraima" informed the 
writer that he owed his life to ten dead men, and 
that he had been in hell with the full realization 
of what that word means, and had lived to tell of 
it. He said: "It was about 8 o'clock, our breakfast 
hour, and I was standing on the main deck expect- 
ing to hear the breakfast bell. I was looking 
towards Pelee watching the vast column of smoke, 
there was not the slightest warning of what was 
to immediately occur. As I gazed, the entire top 
of the mountain was riven asunder. It seemed to 
roll up into the air, and still rolling, go plunging 
down the mountain side in tremendous spirals of 
jet smoke with red fire. It was as if a solid wall of 
fire and smoke had been belched forth and sent 
down the mountain. It was a great volume of 
molten matter, hurled through the air, boulders 
and stones of all sizes and shapes came hurtling 
down upon the terrified city, dealing a death that 
left no time for even a thought of escape or a 
whispered prayer. I rushed for the protection of 



40 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

the forecastle, but fell on the way and over me fell 
ten of the crew every one of which was killed 
instantly, and I, only left alive, one of my hands 
that protruded, was burnt and I was injured inter- 
nally by some of the burning gas which I inhaled. 
The 'Roraima' rolled to port and then suddenly 
to starboard carrying away smokestack and boats, 
staving in the hatches and setting fire to the ship 
in several places, striking men, women and children 
dead instantly. The saloon blazed up and then 
came a rain of small hot stones. It was as if red 
gleaming coals were being heaped upon our heads,, 
followed by a shower of hot mud. The darkness of 
the harbor was appalling, the only light came 
from the burning of the city and the blazing end 
of our own ship." 

The only vessel that escaped was the "Roddam." 
Captain Freeman said : "We had been only an hour 
at St. Pierre and had just dropped anchor when 
the eruption took place. A huge black squall-like 
wall with patches of fire in it rose from the 
mountain and came towards us with terrific speed 
and with an awful rumbling sound. It swept 
before it a great tidal wave and the air became 
as dark as midnight. Big balls of fire fell on 
every part of the ship setting her afire in count- 
less places. After shouting a warning to all 
I ran into the chart room ; the ports being 
open the fire came through them burning my 
face and hands. As soon as the fire slackened 
a little I ran to the engine room telegraph and 
knowing we had some steam up I signalled to the 
engineer to put the engines full speed astern. The 
steering gear had been jammed by the falling lava. 
After I got the steering gear partly clear the 
sky became a little 'brighter and I could see about 
me. By this time there were only five men left, 
and every one of them were injured except the 
third engineer. On the deck my men were lying on 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 47 

heaps of red hot ashes, writhing and screaming. 
I was in a sad way myself. I was unable to 
lift my hands and the water from blisters on 
my forehead ran into my eyes, almost blinding me 
at times. As I steered the ship a sailor stood 
by me wiping my eyes so that I could keep 
the ship on her course for St. Lucia forty-five 
miles away. The men who could get about were 
putting out the fires, working at the furnaces, and 
doing what they could for their dying shipmates." 
It would be difficult to imagine a more heroic spec- 
tacle of British pluck and valo: than that of 
Captain. Freeman steering his ship amid this rain of 
fire. It seems impossible that a human being could 
have stood it. And so he stuck to his post and 
succeeded in carrying his ship beyond the range 
of that awful storm of fire. 

Some hours later the Roddam crept into the 
port of St. Lucia a gray spectral ship with eighteen 
dead bodies lying on the deck and human limbs 
scattered about burned off the trunk. 

On Sunday morning the first visitors arrived at 
the stricken city. The first impression and the one 
that sank the deepest into the soul and was most 
oppressing was the pall that hung over the scene, 
the awful silence. There were no: injured, it was 
a city of the dead, only one single human being 
was found alive, a convict in a dark cell, not a 
bird, not an animal to be seen. The long reaches 
of silent streets and the shells of thousands of 
houses were filled with the bodies of the dead. 
Almost all the bodies were found lying on their 
faces as if the people had tried to shut out the 
scene. The world has been visited by no calamity 
that parallels this in devastation. In a few seconds 
thirty thousand people were swept out of existence 
by one gigantic flash of hot air. 

Frequent eruptions continued for months after- 
wards. When the writer visited what was once 



48 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

St. Pierre, on Jan. 21st, 1903, eight months after 
the catastrophe, there were from fifty to eighty 
feet of earth and ashes above the ruins, only a 
small part of the ruins at the southerly part of the 
city was exposed. As far as the eye could see to 
the northeast of this point the island presented 
the appearance of having just emerged from the 
bottom of the ocean. 

The southern coasts of Martinique are less precipi- 
tous than the northern or leeward shore, and between 
the bold headlands, the shore curves inward, afford- 
ing anchorage in shallow water. At the head of its 
commodious harbor, lies Port Royal, or Fort de 
France, as the capitol of the island is alternately 
called, with ready compliment either to King or Presi- 
dent, whichever may happen for the time to be 
installed at Paris. Near this seaport, about a mile 
out, is a narrow valley running up from the sea for 
about three miles. In this valley once stood the 
house in which Josephine, the wife of Napoleon, was 
born, in 1763. Jutting hills hide the sight until you 
are close upon it, when a turn in the road discloses a 
secluded vale, and a few rods farther, it brings you to 
a low wooden and stone building, which recent writers 
have erroneously described as the birth-place of the 
Empress Josephine. The fact is, this house was not 
one of the original buildings, but was constructed 
of materials from the house in which Josephine 
was born, and which had been destroyed by a hurricane 
shortly after her birth. 

The walls of the ancient building can be traced, 
giving evidence of its having been one of ample 
dimensions; the walls once supporting the gallery 
and those enclosing the court. The only buildings 
now standing which were in existence at the time of 
Josephine's birth are two, the kitchen, once attached 
to the dwelling, and the sugar house. 

Down the hill, within a stone's throw of the dwell- 
ing, is the sugar house to which M. La Pagerie 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 49 

removed after the visit of the hurricane. It is of 
stone, its walls very thick, at least two feet, and it is 
covered with the durable brown tiles so much in har- 
mony with the landscape. In the eastern half, are two 
large chambers extending two-thirds the length of the 
building. The roof has fallen in at one place, and you 
can look into the interior of one of the chambers in 
which Josephine and her parents lived during her 
youth. Through these low windows how often has 
the youthful empress looked out on this beautiful 
tropical landscape! 

At a short distance from Fort de France, the seat 
of government of Martinique, rise the celebrated hot 
mineral springs known as "Fontaine Chaude." These 
springs are said to possess great curative properties. 
They flow in large streams from the ground, and the 
water is conveyed to bathing houses to which great 
numbers of invalids resort. In the year 1837, while 
a party of ladies were enjoying the baths, and entirely 
unsuspicious of danger, the embankment at the head 
of the springs, where the waters were confined in a 
large reservoir, gave way, the torrent overwhelmed the 
bathing house and bore the inmates to destruction. 
Among the victims was the beautiful Mile Adele, 
who was considered the most beautiful maiden on the 
island. 

To the south of Martinique, a mile from the main- 
land, lies Diamond Rock, 574 feet high. This 
stupendous rock leaps from the sea with such perpen- 
dicular sides, that by their exceeding steepness it is 
rendered inaccessible to man, and remained, no doubt, 
unsealed from the time of its creation, until Admiral 
Sir Thomas Hood, serving under Rodney, conceived 
the idea of "bearding the lion in his den," by flaunt- 
ing the British flag from the peak of this rock, in the 
face of the Frenchmen at Martinique. It is said that 
some of Hood's sailors flew a great kite from the 
deck of a sloop of war, (or as some say, fired a shot) 



50 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

to which was fastened a line which they managed to 
stretch across the crag; by this line a rope was drawn 
over the lofty pinancle and made fast to the vessel 
below, which had been lashed alongside the rock. A 
crew of brave men were then hoisted up to the top of 
the pinnacle, many feet above the main truck of their 
vessel; guns and provisions were sent aloft and 
stowed away by the boarding party, and no time was 
lost in planting the English flag in full view of the 
surprised Frenchmen, who, too late, found themselves 
outwitted by the English mariners When the sun 
went down, H. B. M. Sloop-of-War Diamond Rock 
was armed, manned and provisioned, and regularly 
registered as such on the naval records. And from 
their sea-girt citadel, Hood's sailors blazed away with 
their long-tom at every kind of craft that came with- 
in their reach. The crew was finally starved out, and 
the Frenchmen took oossession of the crag and have 
held it ever since. 

ST. LUCIA. 

St. Lucia (English, 35 by 12 miles, highest land 
the volcano Soufriere 4000 feet, 248 square miles 
area, 3 1 ,000 population,) is reached after a three hours' 
run from Martinique, from which it is 24 miles distant. 
The port is Castres, with a fine bowl-like harbor, an 
old crater, which is to become the coaling station of 
the British fleet in the West Indies. This is the only 
port where we lie alongside the wharf, which is near the 
market place. The town is laid out at right angles. 
To the left a street leads to the post office and to the 
government works. To the extreme right, separate 
from the town, is the hospital, a fine building. A 
small park and a Roman Catholic cathedral are 
toward the back of the town. The interior of the 
island is very picturesque and rich in vegetation, but 
the deadly fer dc lance snake is an object of dread. 



?' 





TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 51 

The chief objects of interest at this island are the two 
Pintons, superb conical peaks rising sheer from 
the sea 2,715 and 2,500 feet, which the ship passes 
at the south of the island. It is only recently that 
an ascent has been made ; a party of young men em- 
ployed in the telegraph office at Castres, climbed the 
tallest of the Pintons and ate their luncheon on the top 
of the pinnacle. Tradition says, that years ago, four 
English seamen belonging to the fleet set out to climb 
the loftier of the two. They were watched in their 
ascent through a telescope ; when half way up, one 
of them was seen to drop while three went on ; a few 
hundred feet higher, a second dropped and afterwards 
a third ; one had almost reached the summit when he 
fell also. No account of what had befallen them ever 
reached their ship. They were supposed to have 
been bitten by the deadly fer de lance who had re- 
sented and punished their intrusion into regions 
wherein they had no business. Such is the local 
legend ; this fate, however, did not befall the late 
adventurous climbers, for they all returned safely. 

St. Lucia is one of the most interesting of all the 
Caribbees to the student of history who delights in the 
story of battles upon land and sea. The Caribs made 
a desperate resistance here. In less than two months 
after the first settlers landed from the English ship 
Olive-Blossom, in 1605, the Caribs descended upon 
the settlement and all the colonists were either killed 
or driven from the island. Again, in 1639, a com- 
pany of English settlers attempted its colonization. 
Scarcely had they laid the foundation of their 
settlement when the Caribs, stirred to hostility by 
the French at Martinique, or outraged by the attempt 
to make slaves of their countrymen, fell upon the 
English and killed all they could lay their hands upon 
expelling the survivors from the island. 

In 165 1 the French settled here under Chouselan, 
who erected a fort, and married a Carib woman, and 



52 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

was supposed to possess great influence with the 
natives. In 1660, a treaty was concluded between 
the French and English on one hand, and the Caribs 
on the other. This did not continue long, for the 
parties of the first part, ignoring entirely the parties 
of the second part, began to contend with one another 
for the possession of St. Lucia; and this warfare be- 
tween France and England, for the possession of this 
island continued, almost uninterruptedly, for one 
hundred and sixty years. Of so great importance 
was St. Lucia considered as a military and naval sta- 
tion, that both nations never hesitated to make vast 
sacrifices of troops and treasure for its capture or 
defense. 

In a report made by a French governor of the 
island to the first Napoleon, he asserted that "it had 
always been the intention of France to make St. 
Lucia the capital of the Antilles and ' the Gibralter 
of the Gulf of Mexico.' " 

Admiral Rodney, in a letter written in 1772, 
pointed out the necessity of retaining either Mar- 
tinique or St. Lucia, and of the two, he favored the 
latter. " Either of these islands, in the hands of 
Great Britain, must, while she remain a great mari- 
time power, make her sovereign of the West Indies." 

During the past few years Great Britain has 
made St. Lucia the Gibraltar of the West Indies. 
She has spent $5,000,000 on the defences of Castries 
harbor, and the island has supplemented this with 
an outlay of $400,000 on the improvement of the 
harbor itself. 

The fortifications of St. Lucia are the latest 
triumph of the military engineer. They are so 
masked by the dense foliage that they are utterly 
invisible, even to a vessel steaming within a 
furlong. As at Gibraltar the batteries are con- 
nected with subterranean passageways. They are 
also manned with disappearing guns. In 1664, 
the year in which New York was captured 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 53 

by the English, the Barbadians invaded St. Lucia and 
fought a bloody engagement with the French, and 
held it three years, until by the Treaty of Breda, it 
was given up to France. 

In 1728, forces of both nations occupied strong 
positions in the islands; but in order to avoid further 
effusion of blood, it was decided to consider St. Lucia 
neutral territory: which was confirmed by the Treaty 
of Aix la Chapelle in 1748. But, as usual, little at- 
tention was paid to the decision by either the French 
of Martinique or the English of Barbados; for, dis- 
regarding all treaties and agreements, they continually 
attempted to take advantage of one another, at all 
times, and in all ways, lawfully or unlawfully. 

On the renewal of hostilities between France and 
England, in 1756, Martinique was captured by the 
English forces under General Monckton, operating in 
conjunction with a fleet commanded by Admiral 
Rodney. St. Lucia, as usual, was retaken by the 
English, and remained under British rule until 1763, 
when, by the Treaty of Paris, it was ceded to France. 
The French then laid the foundation of a colonial 
government there on a grand scale, establishing them- 
selves more securely than ever before, and were pre- 
pared, as they thought, for any emergency. When 
war broke out afresh, in 1778, England at once 
devoted all the resources at her command to a des- 
parate attempt to drive her old enemies out of St. 
Lucia. Orders were issued to Sir Henry Clinton, 
then in command at New York, to send an expedition 
to the West Indies. 

On the same day that Admiral Rodney left Sandy 
Hook, a French fleet, under Count d' Estaing, sailed 
from Boston for the same destination. The "two 
squadrons sailed in parallel and not far distant 
courses," towards the Caribbean island ; but the 
British outsailed their adversaries and joined the 
fleet, already on the station, under the command of 



54 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

Admiral Barrington. In December, 1778, the British 
vessels entered the bay at Grand Cul de Sac, the 
troops effecting a landing without meeting any re- 
sistance from the French, who had shut themselves 
up in their fortifications. Early in the following 
year, a bloody battle was fought at the Vegie, a 
fortress commanding Castries Harbor. 

The French were defeated, and Count d' Estaing 
sailed away, leaving St. Lucia in possession of 
the English who fortified themselves so strongly 
upon the island, that, in after years, under Rodney, 
Hood and other great naval captains, they bore down 
on their enemies, the French Dutch and Spaniards, 
in every part of the Caribbean Sea, pursuing their 
fleets, capturing their convoys, storming their forts, 
and blockading their ports. 

It was from here that Rodney and Hood sailed in 
pursuit of the French on the memorable 12th of 
April, 1782, when was fought, one of the bloodiest 
and most obstinately contested naval battles ever 
waged between rivals. An account of this action 
was given in the description of Dominica. 

For this service to his country, Rodney was elevated 
to the peerage, received a pension of two thousand 
pounds for himself and his heirs, and a monument in 
St. Paul's Cathedral at his death. 

By the Treaty of Versailles, in 1784, St. Lucia 
passed again under French rule. What England 
gained by the sword France retook by a stroke of 
the pen. In the many battles fought for the posses- 
sion of this island, England always had the best of it; 
but France, in the end, always secured her own again, 
by treaty. 

In 1794, war broke out again between England and 
France and raged with redoubled fury. On March 
20th, Sir John Jervis captured Martinique; and eight 
days later, the Duke of Kent, the father of Queen 
Victoria, captured St. Lucia; and once more the 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 55 

British flag waved on Morne Fortune. Towards the 
close of 1794, Robespierre sent Citizen Goyrand in 
command of an expedition to St. Lucia. So rapidly 
was his movements executed, that, within a few days, 
with the exception of two forts, the island was entirely 
in possession of the French. In April, 1795, the 
English having been reinforced, gained a temporary 
advantage over the enemy, but were finally defeated 
and driven from the island. 

Early in 1796, Sir Ralph Abercrombie arrived at 
St. Lucia with an army of twelve thousand men. 
Citizen Goyrand, with two thousand men, occupied 
Morne Fortune, overlooking the Bay of Castries. 
A division, under Sir John Moore, effected a landing 
at Longueville Bay, a short distance along the coast 
from Castries. 

After several sanguinary engagements, in which 
Moore distinguished himself by leading the troops 
into the thickest of the fight, the French were over- 
powered and surrendered. 

As usual, when the Treaty of Amiens was signed, 
March 27th, 1802, St. Lucia was returned to the 
French. This peace lasted only fifteen months, when 
war began again, the West Indies, once more, becom- 
ing the battle ground, and St. Lucia, as usual, the 
first object of attack. On June 19th, 1803, Commo- 
dore Samuel Hood sailed from Barbados to St. 
Lucia. The French shut themselves in Morne 
Fortune. The English bravely stormed the works at 
the point of the bayonet and captured them after a 
short resistance. After a struggle of one hundred 
and fifty years, for its possession, St. Lucia finally 
became a British colony, and entitled to the name of 
"the dark and bloody ground." 



50 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 



CHAPTER VI. 

BARBADOS. 
ITS FIRST APPEAR A IVCE. EA RL Y HIS TOR Y. 



Leaving St. Lucia in the evening, the island of St. 
Vincent, twenty-one miles to the southward of St. 
Lucia, was passed during the night. The following 
morning, as the sun arose, we were close to Barbados. 
As we steamed along the west side of the island 
towards Carlisle Bay, (the harbor of Bridgetown, the 
capital of the island,) the view was very beautiful. 
Long ranges of limestone terraces rose above each 
other with here and there a rounded hill, covered 
with fields of bright green sugar cane, and pictur- 
esque windmills, and sugar works. Near by there 
were the planters' houses, embosomed in groves of 
mahogany, bread-fruit, and orange trees. Here and 
there rose the tower of a parish church. Rows of 
stately palms crowned the tops of ridges, leading in 
magnificent avenues up to the estate houses; dotting 
in solitary grandeur the landscape, groves of cocoa- 
nut palms, bent gracefully over the water's edge; 
white limestone roads, wound like ribbons through 
the green fields of cane: — all these, together with 
the deep blue of sea and sky, the former, rolling 
in turbulent waves and dashing in white spray over 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CAR IB BEE ISLANDS. 57 

the treacherous coral reefs on the cavernous, honey- 
combed shore, and stretches of gleaming sand, form 
a rare, and never-to-be-forgotten panorama. 

The sea is dotted, far and wide, with the flying- 
fish boats. As you glide into Carlisle Bay, the scene 
which is presented is one of remarkable activity and 
bustle, in many ways interesting and picturesque. 
At no other port in the Caribbean Islands is to be 
seen so great a fleet of merchantmen and coasting- 
vessels. There were five large steamers at anchor 
belonging to the Royal Mail; one had just arrived 
from Southampton and was transferring its passen- 
gers and freight to the other steamers, bound for 
Trinidad, Jamaica, Panama, Caribbee Islands, and 
Republic of Columbia. More than a hundred sail of 
many flags were anchored, among them, ten men-of- 
war of the British North American squadron, and two 
white cruisers of the United States navy. 

The steamer is immediately surrounded by negro 
boatmen, who swarm on every side, only waiting the 
visit of the health officer before bearing you bag and 
baggage on shore. We put ourselves into the hands 
of the clerk from the Marine Hotel, who quickly 
transferred us to the shore where carriages from the 
hotel were waiting. The Marine Hotel is the largest 
hotel in the West Indies. It is situated at Hastings, 
a watering place, two and one-half miles from Bridge- 
town; it is easy of access by street cars, and overlooks 
the ocean. The sea bathing there is the finest in the 
world, the temperature of the water being about 80 
degrees, suitable for the most delicate invalids. The 
attractions of Hastings and the places of interest in 
the neighborhood, point to it as the natural centre to 
be chosen by tourists who desire to see with comfort 
all the beauties of coast and inland scenery which 
Barbados affords. 

Hastings is considered the most healthy spot in 
the island, for which reason the hotel was built 



58 



STAAVC'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 



there. The house contains upwards of three hundred 
rooms, and is run on the American plan under the 
management of Mr. G. L. Pomroy, an American from 
the State of Maine. The terms are quite reasonable- 
from $2.50 to $4.00 per day. 




A VIEW IN FRONT OF THE ICE HOUSE. 



About half way to Hastings, nearly opposite the 
"Garrison savannah," is a less pretentious hotel, (the 
"Sea View,") from which a fine view of the ocean 
can be obtained. The terms are $2.00 per day or 
$10.00 per week. 

The "Ice-House" in Bridgetown is the principal 
hotel in the town; it is situated on a business street, 
and is an institution peculiar to the West Indies. 
The lower part of the building is occupied by a 
grocery and provision store, while above, are a bar- 
room and restaurant, where iced drinks are to be had 
in abundance. 

This is not a family hotel, such as those previously 
described, but is frequented chiefly by business men 
and sea captains. 



X 




TO BARBADOS AND THE C A RIB BEE ISLANDS. 59 

The accompanying illustration represents a char- 
acteristic street scene, in front of the "Ice House," 
of darkies scrabbling for pennies thrown to them by 
visitors. 

Barbados, or, as it has often been called, "Little 
England," is the most windward of the Lesser An- 
tilles; it is washed on one side by the Atlantic Ocean 
and on the other by the Caribbean Sea. It is the 
oldest of England's West India possession. The 
island was originally discovered by the Spaniards in 
the early part of the sixteenth century, who found it 
covered with forests, from many of the trees of which 
hung, in graceful festoons, a beard-like moss; whence 
the island's name, Barbados, or the bearded place. 

Among the rich collection of manuscripts in the 
British Museum, is a map of the world, with the 
names in French; this map is supposed to have been 
executed about 1536. The Island of Barbados occur 
on this chart, for the first time, under the name of 
Bernados. 

When first discovered by the Spaniards, the island 
was inhabited by Indians, for Charles the Fifth, of 
Spain, in his instructions to Rodrigo de Figueroa, in 
15 18, concerning the freeing of the Indian slaves that 
had been taken to Espafiola, under the pretext of 
their being Caribs, mentions those taken from the 
"Isla de los Barbudos." This is further proven by 
the large number of implements found in all parts of 
the island. 

Here, as in the Bahama Islands, the Spaniards, 
with an appalling atrocity, acted towards the unfor- 
tunate Indians as though they did not belong to the 
human race. It was one unspeakable outrage, one 
unutterable ruin, without discrimination of age or sex; 
they who died not, under the lash, in a tropical sun, 
died in the darkness of the mine. From the coral 
islands, from the mangrove swamps, and the gloom 
of impenetrable forests, there went up to God a last 



60 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

cry of human despair. By millions upon millions, 
whole races were remorselessly cut off by the bar- 
barous Spaniards. Las Casas affirms that more than 
fifteen millions were exterminated in his time, among 
them were the aboriginal inhabitants of Barbados. 

The first English vessel which touched at Barbados 
appears to have been the " Olive Blossom," com- 
manded by Captain Cataline. This vessel was fitted 
out at the expense of Sir Olive Leigh, Knight, and 
sailed from Woolwich on the 14th of April, 1605, 
with colonists and stores for "Master Charles Leigh," 
his brother, who had settled a colony in the river 
Oyapoco. Owing to the unskilfulness of the sailing 
master, Richard Chambers, they were obliged to 
touch at Barbados. The crew, finding it destitute of 
inhabitants, took possession of the country by erect 
ing a cross upon the spot where Jamestown was 
afterwards built, and cut upon the bark of a tree 
which stood near, "James, K. of E., and this island;" 
that is, James, King of England, and this island. 
They then followed the shore, until their progress 
was stopped by the river, which afterwards received 
the name of Indian River, where the explorers per- 
formed a similar ceremony of taking possession of the 
island. They did not, however, commence any settle- 
ment, and only stayed to refresh themselves. From 
Barbados, they went to St. Lucia, where Mr. John 
Nicholl and the colonists who proposed to have set- 
tled in Guiana, resolved to stay. The new set- 
tlers were surprised by the Indians, as mentioned in 
the previous chapter, and the few who escaped, after 
many adventures, arrived at Carthagena.* Some 
Dutch vessels, which were specially licensed by the 
court of Spain to trade with Brazil, landed in Barbados 
on their return to Europe, for the purpose of procur- 
ing refreshments. On their arrival in Zealand, they 
gave a flattering account of the island, which was 

*An hour glass of Indian Ncrwes, by John Nicholl, London, 1607. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 61 

communicated by a correspondent to William Cour- 
teen, a merchant of London, who was at that time 
deeply engaged in the trade with the New World. 
The favorable account given by the Dutch navigators 
was shortly afterwards confirmed by one of Courteen's 
own vessels, which was driven by stress of weather on 
the coast of Barbados; this occurred about 1624. 

The men on Courteen's ship landed and stayed 
some time ; they found the island thickly overgrown 
with wood, but without any inhabitants. Ligon 
asserts, however, that there were wild hogs in abund- 
ance, which he considered to have been left there by 
the Portuguese; so that, in case they should be driven 
again on the coast, they might find fresh meat. This 
seems to have been the common practice of the Por- 
tuguese, for when Sir George Somers was wrecked 
on the Bermudas, he found the island uninhabited, 
but containing an abundance of wild hogs left there 
by the Portuguese. 

The accounts which Sir William Courteen received 
from his own people, respecting the fertility and 
commodious situation of Barbados, confirmed him in 
his plan of forming a settlement there. 

Lord Ley, afterwards Earl of Marlborough, and 
Lord High Treasurer, having been informed of the 
favorable accounts which were given of Barbados, 
applied to James the First for a patent to secure the 
island to him and his heirs forever. Under his pro- 
tection, Sir William Courteen fitted out two large 
ships, supplied with arms, ammunition, and the 
necessary tools for commencing a settlement. Of 
these ships, one only, the William and John, com- 
manded by Henry Powell, arrived in 1626 at Bar- 
bados, and landed, on the leeward side of the island, 
forty Englishmen, with seven or eight negroes.* Of 
the former, William Arnold was one of the first to 
step ashore. 

♦Captain John Smith's Travels, etc., London, 1630. 



62 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

The colonists fortified themselves near the spot 
of which possession had been taken nearly twenty 
years previously by the crew of the Olive Blossom, 
and laid the foundation of a town, which, in honor of 
their sovereign, they called Jamestown. They elected 
Captain William Dean, Governor; and thus Barbados 
was one of the few islands which fell into the hands 
of the English, without bloodshed and the extirpation 
of its aboriginal inhabitants, the Spaniards having 
accomplished this, both here and in the Bahamas, 
before the coming of the English. 

The negroes referred to, were taken in a prize by 
the William and John on her voyage to Barbados, she 
sailing under letters of marque; these were the first 
slaves brought to Barbados. 

The settlers soon found that the island was desti- 
tute of food-bearing plants. Captain Powell, accord- 
ingly set sail, fourteen days after his arrival, for 
Essequibo. The Dutch governor, who was an old 
acquaintance, received him most kindly, and not only 
procured roots, seeds and plants, but also persuaded 
about forty Arrawack Indians to accompany Powell 
on his return to Barbados, to teach the settlers how 
to plant the provisions. The Indians stipulated that, 
if, at the end of two years, they wished to return 
to Essequibo, they should be free to do so, and 
should receive, as payment for their services, fifty 
pounds sterling in axes, bills, hoes, knives, looking- 
glasses and beads ; which agreement was afterwards 
shamefully violated, the Indians being held as slaves. 

After an absence of some months, Captain Powell 
returned to Barbados, where he appears to have found 
the colonists in distress for want of food. It was, 
therefore, a welcome supply of provisions he brought 
back with him. And now were introduced, for the 
first time, into Little England, cassava, Indian corn, 
potatoes, plantains, bananas, oranges, lemons, pine- 
apples and melons. Tobacco, cotton and sugar-cane 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 63 

came at the same time, and also a supply of fowls. 

The Indians were set to planting as soon as they 
arrived; and, as the crops grew, the Colony soon be- 
came furnished with the necessaries of life. Tobacco 
and cotton were cultivated for export. 

Captain Powell had returned from the mainland 
but two days, when his brother, Captain John Powell, 
arrived at Barbados from England, in the Peter, ac- 
companied by a pinnace called the Thomasine ; the 
two vessels together brought about fifty men, all 
English, with a quantity of materials for the further 
planting of the island. These vessels were also 
furnished at the cost of Sir William Courteen and his 
friends. 

A fort was soon built and called " Plantation Fort," 
and the King of England's colors were raised upon it. 
Two guns were mounted on the Fort, and there was a 
good supply of swords and muskets and of small round 
shot and powder. Among those who accompanied 
Captain Henry Powell, was a young gentleman of the 
name of Henry Winthrop, then only eighteen years 
of age; he was a younger son of Squire Winthrop of 
Groton Hall, in the County of Suffolk, afterwards the 
founder of the colony of Massachusetts Bay, and the 
"Father of Boston." Another brother, Captain 
Samuel Winthrop, settled at Antigua, as has been 
previously mentioned in the chapter on that island. 
Another brother, John Winthrop Jr., founded the 
city of New London, Connecticut, and became the 
first governor of that colony. It is from letters 
written by Henry Winthrop to his father, Governor 
John Winthrop, and preserved by his family — the 
most famous family in the United States to-day — that 
an insight is given us of the earliest days of the 
infant colony.* 

♦Massachusetts Historical Collection, Vol. VIII, Fifth Series, Winthrop Papers, 
pp. 179, 180. Also reprinted in " Cavaliers and Roundheads," by N. Darnell Davis, 
Georgetown, British Guiana, 1887. 



64 STARK'S HISTORY AMD GUIDE 

Captain Powell left Barbados in August, 1627. 
Before his departure, he handed over a third of the 
ship's provisions to the settlers. 

It is asserted that James Hay, Earl of Carlisle, ob- 
tained from James the First, a grant or warrant for 
a grant under the great seal, of all the Caribbean 
islands, which the king erected into a province under 
the name of Carliola. The report of the adventure 
of Sir William Courteen, to settle Barbados, induced 
Lord Carlisle to get his former grant confirmed. 
His application to Charles the First was successful, 
for the King granted to him all the Caribbee Islands 
by letter patent. The Earl of Marlborough opposed 
this grant, on the ground of priority of right, which 
produced a tedious litigation. The Earl of Carlisle 
compromised with the Lord High Treasurer, by 
agreeing to pay to him and his heirs forever an 
annuity of three hundred pounds for his claim; and 
in consequence of this arrangement, the patent of the 
Earl of Carlisle passed the great seal on June 2, 1627, 
whereby he became sole proprietor of the Caribbee 
Islands, including Barbados. This patent authorized 
the Earl of Carlisle, or his heirs, to publish such 
laws, with the consent and approbation of "the free 
inhabitants of the said province, or the greater part 
of them thereto, to be called;" these laws, however, 
" to be agreeable, and not repugnant unto reason nor 
against, but as convenient and agreeable as may be, 
to the laws, statutes, customs and rights of our own 
kingdom of England. Such was the state of affairs 
when on July 5, 1628, about seventy mem arrived 
from St. Kitts for the purpose of making a settlement 
in Barbados under the patronage of the Earl of Car- 
lisle. Their leader was Captain Charles Wolferstone, 
a native of Bermuda ; he brought a letter from Lord 
Carlisle directed to Captain John Powell, Jr., (the son 
of the Captain John Powell who brought them over 
from England,) and to Captain William Deans and 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 



65 



other planters, by which these gentlemen were in- 
formed that the new comers had been sent by the Earl 
to join with them in the Plantation. The letter said 
the new settlers should in no way prejudice the old 
ones. Wolferstone's party anchored in the bay which 
they named after the Earl of Carlisle. They were "en- 
tertained" by the planters under Dean and Powell; 
but when the latter found that Wolferstone intended 
to set up the authority of the Earl of Carlisle over 
them, they objected and asked him to leave them alone 
that they might "enjoy the freedom of Englishmen." 
Wolferstone issued a proclamation summoning the in- 
habitants to meet at the Bridge. The new comers 
having settled to the windward of the first settlers, as- 
sumed the name of Windward-men, and the others 
were called Leeward-men; the latter made their appear- 
ance at the Bridge, afterwards known as Bridgetown. 
They would not, however, hear of submitting to the 
authority of the Earl of Carlisle; Dean, however, who 
recognized a countryman in Wolferstone, tendered 
his allegiance. The others returned that night to 
their settlements, making "torches of wild canes" 
with which to pick their way home through the 
darkness. A body of men, under the command of 
Dean, who had so treacherously deserted his former 
adherants, was now despatched by Wolferstone for 
their submission. They were met by Captain Powell 
and his men who marched out to meet their adversa- 
ries. They met at the Palmetto Fort near the Hole, 
but an engagement was prevented by the interposi- 
tion of a clergyman, the Rev. Mr. Kentlane, who made 
a proposition that the dispute should be referred 
to the two Earls. The Leeward-men submitted to 
the Earl of Carlisle's authority ad interim, on the 14th 
of September, 1628. When peace had thus been 
made, the settlers fell to work again; but Wolferstone, 
who had seized Plantation Fort, now took the oppor- 
tunity of casting into prison the Governor, John 



66 STA RK 'S HIS TOR Y A ND G UIDE 

Powell, with Thomas Parris and many other influen- 
tial planters. 

The triumph of the Carlisle men was but short. 
On the 14th, of January, 1629, Captain Henry Powell, 
(uncle of John Powell, the Governor,) arrived from 
England, in the Peter and John, with about eighty 
men. He landed his men armed with muskets, took 
possession of the Fort, seizing Wolferstone and 
Dean, whom he carried to England with him, and 
restored his nephew to the Governorship of the Island 
with the people's consent. 

On the 9th of April following, by another turn of 
Fortune's wheel, the Carlisle interest again became 
supreme. On that day, the ship Carlisle, Captain 
Robert Dennis, master, arrived at Barbados, having 
on board four Commissioners, who were on their way 
to Nevis, sent by Lord Carlisle to inquire into the 
contentions among the inhabitants of that island. 

The Commissioners, after having been at first re- 
fused a landing, were courteously entertained by 
Governor John Powell, whom they, in return, invited 
to come on board their ship with his Secretary, 
Kempe, and eat a "Kettle of breams" at breakfast. 
The Governor and his Secretary, "not thinking any 
any harm, did goe." 

At breakfast time, Powell and Kempe were taken 
prisoners by a guard of musketeers, under Captain 
Ramsey, and put into irons. The unfortunate cap- 
tives were chained to the mainmast of the Carlisle, 
and remained in that condition for three weeks or a 
month, at Barbados, and until they were subsequently 
taken by the Spaniards at Nevis. This brutal treat- 
ment seems to have caused the death of Powell. En- 
raged by this act of treachery, the Leeward-men again 
took up arms. They attacked the Carlisle settlement 
on the 1 6th of April following, but were met with a 
spirited resistance and compelled to make a precipe 
tate retreat; the island was thus finally lost to 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 67 

Sir William Courteen. For the gallant defence made 
by the Windward-men, the Earl of Carlisle granted 
them free storage of their goods for a term of seven 
years. 

The two claimants to the possession of Barbados 
meanwhile employed all the interest they possessed 
to have their grants declared valid, but the superior 
influence of the Earl of Carlisle prevailed, and the 
King ordered a second patent to be issued, clearing 
up all doubts that had arisen, and confirming Lord 
Carlisle in the most explicit manner as proprietor of 
Barbados. This document bears date the 7th of 
April, 1629. The Earl of Carlisle appointed Sir Wil- 
liam Tufton, baronet, commander-in-chief of the 
island. He arrived at Barbados on the 21st of 
December, 1629, accompanied by Charles Saltonstall 
and two hundred colonists. The number of inhabi- 
tants, at that time, amounted to between fifteen and 
sixteen hundred persons. The force placed at 
the command of the governor was quite sufficient to 
subdue the Leeward-men, and the interest of Courteen 
in the colony was therefore suppressed. 

In spite of the enegertic measures which Sir Wil- 
liam Tufton adopted for the welfare of the young 
colony, he did not gain the approbation of the Earl of 
Carlisle, for he commissioned Captain Henry Hawley 
as Governor, with power to establish a council and to 
depose Sir William Tufton " by force, if necessary." 

The new governor arrived in June, 1630; and dur- 
ing this year, the colony suffered for the want of food 
in consequence of a severe drought. Governor Haw- 
ley was secretly accused of applying stores which the 
Earl had sent out for the relief of the colonists to his 
own purpose. Sir William Tufton and others signed 
a memorial, addressed to the governor, complaining 
of his withholding these supplies from them. On 
April nth, 1631, he appointed a new Council and 
constituted them a tribunal, before which Governor 



68 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

Hawley arraigned Sir William Tufton and two others, 
(Floory, a surgeon, and one Morgan,) for high treason, 
for having presented the petition against him as 
Governor. Sir Walter Calverley, Master Reynold 
Alleyne, and other councillors, to their undying dis- 
grace, sentenced the accused to death, and they were 
accordingly executed the following May: Sir Wil- 
liam Tufton being shot, and the others hanged. Such 
arbitrary proceedings drew the displeasure of the 
Earl upon the Governor, who was recalled to England. 
Hawley, when he observed Lord Carlisle's dissatis- 
faction with his colonial management, returned 
privately to Barbados for the purpose of strengthen- 
ing his power. Sir Henry Hucks was appointed 
Governor of Barbados in March, 1639, and his appoint- 
ment was confirmed by the King; but when he 
arrived in Barbados, he found that Hawley had " got 
there before him, called in all commissions, proclaimed 
all offices void, made the jail delivery a day of mercy, 
chose Burgesses, and settled a Parliament." Sir 
Henry was not allowed to read his commission, but 
was ordered to give it up, or his person would be 
seized. The King's letter was slighted, Captain 
Hawley disputing Lord Carlisle's proprietorship of 
the island. The Parliament chose Hawley Governor, 
and he was proclaimed "with the greatest scorn" 
towards Lord Carlisle Sir Henry Hucks was forced 
to leave the island, and went to Antigua. 

As soon as the information reached England of 
this refusal to deliver the reins of government into 
Major Hucks' hands, Captain Ashton was sent with 
stringent powers from the King and the Earl of Car- 
lisle, to force Hawley to submission. In pursuance 
of these instructions, Hawley was arrested and sent 
prisoner to England, and his estate confiscated ; he 
afterwards returned to Barbados, where he lived for 
many years, and held good positions. 

Sir Henry Hucks returned from Antigua, and was 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 69 

appointed Governor on the 4th of December, 1640. 
He soon relinguished the government of the island 
into the hands of Captain Philip Bell, who "had a 
plentiful estate," having been governor of Bermuda 
and Old Providence. His rule was very beneficial to 
the colony, which he governed with marked success 
from June 18th, 1641, till May, 1650. During that 
time, the colonists prospered wonderfully well; the 
Legislature was remodelled and a Council of twelve, 
with an Assembly of twenty-two members, was es- 
tablished, and with the consent of the colonists some 
useful laws were made. It was enacted that^ the 
island should be divided into eleven parishes, in 'each 
of which a church should be built, and that each 
parish should have two representatives at least, to be 
elected by the freeholders. It was also enacted that 
those who were in quiet possession of land granted to 
them by former governors, or by virtue of conveyance 
or other act in law, should be confirmed in it, and be 
empowered to dispose of it, either in part or in whole, 
or it should otherwise descend, or be confirmed to 
their heirs forever. Certain fees for public officers. 
were stipulated and fixed upon, to prevent extortion; 
the island was fortified, and the militia rendered 
formidable by its numbers. 

During Hawley's administration, he was ordered 
to make no grants of lands for a longer period 
than seven years, or, at the most, for life. During 
1636 he made ninety-eight new grants, comprising 
nine thousand eight hundred and ten acres, which 
was now confirmed to their possessors by Governor 
Bell. 

Hawley's Council also resolved, in the same year, 
that Negroes and Indians, who were brought to Bar- 
bados for sale, should serve for life, unless a previous 
contract had been made to the contrary. This law 
forms an important era in the history of Barbados, as 
from the time it came into operation, slavery was 
fully established in the island. 



70 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

In 1649, the negro slaves made an attempt to throw 
off their bondage ; the boldest had planned a con- 
spiracy to massacre all the white inhabitants and to 
make themselves masters of the island. They kept 
this secret so well that their masters remained wholly 
in ignorance of it until the day previous to the one 
they had appointed for carrying their plot into execu- 
tion. A servant of Judge Hothersall revealed the 
secret to his master; effective measures were imme- 
diately taken to secure the leaders, and the scheme 
was frustrated. Eighteen of the principal conspirators 
were condemned to death and executed.* 

It was during Governor Bell's administration that 
the sugar industry was established. The sugar cane 
had been introduced by Captain Powell, but the juice 
seems to have been used only for making some kind 
of a drink that would be refreshing in a hot climate. 
At first, only a moist sugar, which would hardly bear 
transportation from the island, was made. The plant- 
ers also made the mistake of cutting their canes at 
twelve instead of fifteen months. In time, however, 
•after some planters had visited Brazil and learned the 
business, all came right, and not only were muscova- 
does made, but the manufacture of "whites" was 
accomplished. The colonists now prospered greatly; 
the Dutch giving them credit, almost to any extent, 
on supplying them with negroes, for whom payment 
was not required until these laborers had planted canes 
for a crop, and that crop had been reaped and con- 
verted into sugar. 

When the Civil War broke out in England, the 
Dutch managed nearly the whole trade of the English 
West Indian colonies; they furnished, not only ne- 
groes to the Barbadian planters, but also copper, stills, 
and every other appliance needed for the "ingenios** 
as the sugar works were called, and also with the 
ordinary requisites of life. 

*Ligon's History of Barbados, p. 45. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 71 

A large number of emigrants had arrived from 
England, most of whom were under thirty years of 
age, consisting for the most part of farmers and 
artisans; only a small proportion were women. In 
1645, the population was 18,300 effective men on the 
island, of whom 11,200 were proprietors. 

This large number of landholders was the outcome 
of a system of allotting dividends of five, ten, twenty 
and thirty acres of land to colonists, and also of a law 
which allowed three, four or five acres to a "servant" 
when his time of service was out. 

There were now about 6,400 negroes in the island. 
In 1650, the population had increased to 30,000, not 
only by the influx of negroes brought from Guinea 
and Bonney, but by the immigration of English set- 
tlers, who "took ship" during the troubles, or "fled 
over sea" when the Royal cause was lost, hoping to 
find a place of refuge in the "far Barbados." 



72 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 



CHAPTER VII. 

CIVIL WAR IN BARBADOS. 



The unhappy dissensions which had broken out 
between the King and his subjects in England, had 
in the commencement, no effect upon the prosperity 
of the Barbados. In the turmoil of factions, the new 
colony was forgotten and left to itself, its trade re- 
maining unrestricted. The fame of the prosperity of 
the island was not only carried to England, but spread 
over Europe. 

After the death of Lord Carlisle, it was found that 
he had, by his will, settled Barbados for the payment 
of his debts. About the year 1647, his son and heir 
entered into negotiations with Francis, Lord Will- 
oughby of Parham, for the fulfilment of his father's 
wish, to pay his debts from the revenue of the island; 
.this he thought might be effected in a short time, 
and the benefits arising from it would afterwards 
fall to him as heir. 

Lord Willoughby, at the commencement of hostili- 
ties, had been opposed to the Royal Party; he was in 
1642 Lieutenant of Lincolnshire, and by organizing 
the militia drew upon himself the King's displeasure. 
He now openly espoused the popular cause, and dis- 
tinguished himself in Gainsborough, where he took the 
Earl of Kingston prisoner. As an acknowledgement 
of his numerous services, Parliament raised him to an 
earldom in December, 1645. In ^47, he was sus- 
pected of being connected with the intrigues of the 



TO BARBADOS A AW THE C A RIB B BE ISLANDS. 73 

Earl of Suffolk. He and others were impeached by 
Parliament; and, his former great services and merits 
not being at all considered, his life, fortune and honor 
would have been forfeited had he not escaped to Hol- 
land, where he arrived in March, 1647, ar >d openly 
espoused the cause of the Prince of Wales. 

The negotiations between the new Earl of Carlisle 
and Lord Willoughby, respecting Barbados, had been 
brought to a close previous to his flight. The King 
was then in the hands of the army, but with his ap- 
probation and consent, it was agreed that the Earl of 
Carlisle should convey to Lord Willoughby a lease of 
all the profits which should arise out of that colony 
for twenty-one years, one moiety of which was to be 
reserved for the use of the Earl. In consequence of 
this arrangement, Lord Willoughby was promised a 
commission as Governor of Barbados and the rest of 
the Caribbee Islands. Lord Willoughby informed 
the Prince of Wales of this agreement, who, as the 
King had already recommended him to his Highness, 
approved of it. Charles the First was impeached 
on the 20th of January, 1649, an d executed on the 
30th of the same month. As soon as the news 
reached the Hague, the Prince of Wales had himself 
proclaimed King of Great Britain and Ireland, under 
the title of Charles the Second. When the colonists 
in Barbados heard of the King's execution Charles the 
Second was immediately proclaimed to be their lawful 
Sovereign. 

These proceedings attracted the attention of the 
Royalist party to the colonies. It was considered of 
great importance to secure the West India settle- 
ments to the crown. Lord Willoughby was con- 
sidered particularly qualified to keep the interests of 
the King's cause alive in Barbados; with the unani- 
mous advice of the Council, he was appointed 
Governor of Barbados. After many accidents, 
he arrived on the 7th of May, 1650, in Carlisle Bay. 



74 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

Previous to his arrival, the island was not without 
factions and intrigues, Governor Bell himself being 
suspected by some of the extreme Royalists of being 
a Roundhead. Two brothers named Walround, stood 
at the head of this party, and through their intrigues, 
Colonel Guy Molesworth had been banished from the 
island. 

The inhabitants of Bermuda had sent an agent to 
Barbados to induce them to enter into a league for 
mutual protection, and to furnish the Bermudians with 
arms and ammunition. Colonel Drax, who favored 
Parliament, successfully opposed this plan ; then the 
Walround brothers spread a report that the Parlia- 
mentarians intended to seize the magazines and put 
all who were for the King to the sword. In conse- 
quence, Colonels Shelby and Read advanced with 
their regiments towards Bridgetown for the purpose 
of seizing the Governor, who was fortunately 
awakened by the alarm. The Governor called upon 
Colonel Modyford to raise the Windward regiment for 
the restoration of his authority. Fifteen hundred in- 
fantry and one hundred cavalry were raised in one 
night. At this juncture of affairs Lord Willoughby 
arrived, and gave notice to Governor Bell that he held 
a commission from the King and the Earl of Carlisle 
appointing him Governor of Barbados and the Car- 
ibbee Islands. The first steps taken by him, as soon 
as he found himself established in the island, were to 
convene the Legislature and acknowledge the sov- 
ereignty of the King, and to appoint a committee of 
sequestration. Several estates were confiscated, and 
heavy fines were laid upon those of the opposite party 
The Council of State were informed of these acts by 
refugees that fled to England. Parliament promptly 
declared the inhabitants of Barbados traitors to the 
Commonwealth, and decided that it was necessary to 
reduce their island, for which purpose a well 
provided fleet should be sent there. The House 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CA RIB BEE ISLANDS. 75 

approved of this measure in October, 1650, and Sir 
George Ayscue was sent with a large squadron and a 
considerable body of troops to Barbados to reduce the 
island to obedience. 

News of this armament had been brought to Bar- 
bados. Lord Willoughby availed himself of the loyal 
spirit which was in the ascendency in Barbados, and 
not only had the island itself fortified, but raised a 
considerable force for its defence, and equipped sev- 
eral vessels, with which he compelled the other 
islands under his government, to submit to the King's 
authority. 

The fleet arrived off Barbados on the 10th of Octo- 
ber, 165 1. Three ships anchored before Carlisle Bay 
to prevent any vessels from running away to the lee- 
ward, there being fourteen sail of vessels at anchor 
there. The remainder of the fleet anchored . at 
Oistin's Bay. In passing Needham's Point, the fleet 
was fired at but received no injury. 

Captain Pack, with the frigate Amity, captured 
eleven Dutch and one English vessel; he afterwards 
captured two more ships laden with provisions and 
horses. 

When the fleet arrived, Lord Willoughby was at an 
entertainment twelve miles back in the country, and 
so little were the three vessels suspected, that the 
Marshall of the island went off in a boat to see who 
the strangers were, and was detained prisoner. When 
Lord Willoughby returned to Bridgetown he de- 
manded the Marshall's release, which was refused. 

Sir George Ayscue sent a summons to surrender 
the island to Parliament. 

Lord Willoughby responded that he knew no su- 
preme authority over Englishmen but the King, whose 
commission he held, and for whom he resolved to keep 
this island and that he expected an overture for satis- 
faction to be given to him for their hostility to the 
fleet and his Marshall. 



76 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

Sir George then commenced bombarding the cas- 
tle, but without much effect, and was fired at from 
the batteries. Though he had on board the squadron 
above two thousand troops, he could not effect a 
landing, for Lord Willoughby had made such effective 
arrangements, and had disposed the forces under his 
command so advantageously along the sea shore, that 
Sir George found the enterprise more difficult than he 
had expected. 

The Council and Assembly promised to support the 
Governor, and published on November 4th, 165 1, a 
declaration in which they set forth their determina- 
tion to defend the island in the name of His 
Majesty, and to preserve that liberty which they en- 
joyed under their constitution. The Commissioners 
from Parliament, in the fleet with Sir George, had 
previously sent a declaration to the inhabitants, to 
persuade them to submit to the Parliament and to 
desert Lord Willoughby and his party, in which case 
they offered them full indemnity. The counter 
declaration from the Legislature was the answer the 
Commissioners received. 

Finding the Governor and inhabitants obstinate, 
Sir George called a council of his officers, the result 
of which was a determination to storm the castle and 
blockhouse, forthwith. Sixty long-boats were manned 
with troops, who entered the bay and commenced 
storming the fort, but they met with such a repulse 
that they were obliged to make good their retreat. 

A third summons to submit to Parliament being 
refused, another force was landed on the night of 
December 17th, but the Barbadians having notice of 
this intended plan, opposed their landing with nine 
companies of foot and three troops of horse, who 
made a gallant charge. Colonel Alleyne, who led the 
Parliamentary force, was killed by a musket-ball before 
he reached the shore. Lord Willoughby' s forces were 
driven back and forced from their intrenchments, and 



TO BARBADOS AND THE C A RIB BEE ISLANDS. 77 

pursued to Fort Royal, which was stormed and taken 
by the Parliamentarians. Fifty of Lord Willoughby' s 
men were killed and a hundred taken prisoners ; all 
the ordnance was dismounted and many houses 
burned. The place being untenable, Sir George with- 
drew his troops on board of his fleet. 

Colonel Modyford and Lieutenant-Colonel Burch 
were the leaders of the moderate party, and intrigues 
were carried on between them and the Admiral of the 
Parliamentary fleet. A conference was secretly held 
in the night on shore with Captain Park, Colonel 
Drax and Mr. Raynes, the latter being empowered by 
Sir George to offer such conditions as were reasonable. 

On Saturday, the 6th of January, 1652, Colonel 
Modyford drew up his regiment, consisting of one 
thousand men and one hundred and twenty horse, and 
induced them to declare for the Parliament; the 
articles agreed upon were sent to Lord Willoughby, 
who refused compliance, and put himself in a state of 
defence. Colonel Modyford' s house now became the 
headquarters of the Parliamentary force, and Sir 
George, having been informed of the state of affairs, 
arrived on the 8th of January, in the Rainbow, 
landed and proclaimed the authority of Parliament. 

Lord Willoughby collected a force of three thousand 
men and marched, against the Parliamentary forces. 
It was evident that he did not trust his soldiers, a 
great number of whom had already deserted. He 
therefore held a council of war with his officers; while 
thus occupied, a ball from one of Sir George's great 
guns struck the house and carried away the head of 
the sentinel who was standing before the room. 
During the night, Lord Willoughby fell back two 
miles. The three days following, it rained so hard 
that Sir George could not advance against him; and 
before they could march, Lord Willoughby sent a 
trumpeter with a demand for a treaty, to which Sir 
George Ayscue, whose strength was much greater, 



78 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

and who desired to avoid the destruction of the island, 
which had already suffered so much, consented. The 
reason which induced Lord Willoughby to offer terms 
of submission was on account of his abandonment 
by those from whom he expected powerful support. 
It became likewise evident to him that, should he be 
taken prisoner, without a treaty, he could expect no 
mercy, as he was a deserter from the Parliamentary 
forces. 

The commissioners appointed to treat from either 
side, met on the ioth of January, and on the follow- 
ing day they signed "The Charter of Barbados," the 
articles in which are alike honorable to those who 
demanded and those who granted them. Of the 
favorable terms secured by the Royalists, Sir George 
reported to the Council of State that "there were 
some things which we were very unwilling to grant," 
but that one month's war with two armies on foot, 
would have utterly ruined the place. 

Lord Willoughby, who had been impeached by Par- 
liament, and had had his property in England confis- 
cated, was, by these articles, restored to all his rights 
of persou and property, in England, Barbados, 
Antigua and Surinam. 

All the inhabitants of the island were forgiven for 
any acts committed by them during the Civil War, 
also, their lands, goods and money which they had in 
Barbados, England, Scotland or Ireland were restored 
to them, and all trade to be "free with all nations 
that do trade with England." 

These articles appeared so advantageous and mild 
that the inhabitants would have had every reason to 
congratulate themselves if they had been held in- 
violable. Two months however had not passed after 
the signing of the treaty, when the new Legislature 
met on the 4th 'of March, 1652, and passed an Act 
requiring Lord Willoughby, by twelve o'clock (noon,) 
on Friday, the 12th of March, 1652, to repair on 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 79 

board the "Red Lion," then riding at anchor in 
Hawley's Bay, which ship was appointed by the 
State's Commissioners for him. He was further re- 
quired not to land thereafter at Barbados under the 
penalty of being proceeded against as an enemy to 
the peace of the island, excepting with the Parlia- 
ment's leave. Power was given to him to appoint 
an attorney for the management of his affairs in the 
colony. Another Act was passed on the same day 
banishing a number of the principal planters of the 
island who had been supporters of Lord Willoughby, 
and all acts passed by him for the defence of the 
island were repealed. 

Colonel Daniel Searle was appointed Governor of 
the island; his administration gave general satisfac- 
tion, numerous laws were passed, and the island 
seemed to recover from the effects of the internal 
conflict. 

Lord Willoughby (of Parham,) went to his settlement 
on the Surinam river in Guiana, which is now the 
capitol of Dutch Guiana and known as Paramaribo. 
On the accession of Charles the Second to the throne, 
Lord Willoughby was restored to the government of 
Barbados, under the title of "Captain General and 
Governor-in-Chief of the island of Barbados and all 
the other Caribbee Islands." Lord Willoughby 
appointed Colonel Thomas Walround (his friend and 
faithful adherant, who had been banished with him) 
his Deputy-Governor. 

On the 28th of July, 1666, Lord Willoughby sailed 
with seventeen sail and nearly two thousand troops, 
and took possession of St. Lucia. On the 4th, of Aug- 
ust he sent three frigates to the Saints to destroy some 
French ships which were lying there. Observing 
symptoms of an approaching hurricane, he was ex- 
tremely anxious for the return of the ships, but the 
ship of the officer in command having received some 
damages, it could not be refitted before night. At 



80 STA RK >S HIS TOR Y AND G UIDE 

6 o'clock in the afternoon, the gale commenced and 
continued through the night with the greatest violence. 
Every vessel and boat upon the coast of Guadeloupe 
and in the Saints was driven ashore, and of the whole 
of Lord Willoughby's fleet, only two were ever heard 
of afterwards. The whole coast of Guadeloupe was 
covered with the wrecks, among which was recog- 
nized a figure from the stern of Lord Willoughby's 
ship. 

On the arrival of the news of Lord Willoughby's 
death, the King issued a commission to his brother, 
Lord William Willoughby, to be Governor for three 
years; he continued in office till April, 1673, when, 
owing to ill health, he resigned, and appointed in his 
stead, Sir Peter Colleton. He died in England in 
1674, having greatly endeared himself to the inhabi- 
tants during his administration, by the many important 
and beneficial laws which were passed, proving 
him to be an effective and upright governor. Thus 
ended the reign of the Lords Willoughby in 
Barbados. It is acknowledged that the adminis- 
tration of these two Lords was prudent, mild and 
equitable, and well calculated for the prosperity of 
the island. 

The most important measure that was adopted 
during Lord Willoughby's administration, was that 
abolishing of the proprietary form of government in 
Barbados, and making a crown colony of the island. 
Upon the restoration of the King, there remained to 
Lord Willoughby nine years of the lease granted him 
by Lord Carlisle, unexpired, and on his application 
for a renewal of his commission, it was evident to the 
planters that they were still regarded as under the 
patent of the Earl of Carlisle, and mere tenants at will. 
Notwithstanding the two acts that had been passed 
confirming their rights in severalty to their estates, 
they considered that their validity might be sooner or 
later disputed. It was finally decided that the gov. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARJBBEE ISLANDS. 81 

ernment should assume all incumbrances and settle 
all claims against the island, that the proprietary 
government should be dissolved, and that the planters 
should consider themselves as legally confirmed in the 
possession of their estates in fee simple. In con- 
sideration of this, it was stipulated that the whole 
revenue subject to the charge of the Governor's main- 
tenance should be at the disposal of the Crown. 
On account of the great charges necessary in effect- 
ing this settlement, and the expense incumbent on 
the Government in Barbados in maintaing the honor 
and dignity of His Majesty's authority, an Act was 
passed on the 12th of September, 1663, "for settling 
the import of four-and-half per cent, in specie upon all 
dead commodities of the growth or produce of the 
island that shall be shipped off the same." 

This enormous duty fell heavily on the planters of 
Barbados for one hundred and seventy-five years ; in 
spite of all endeavors during succeeding generations 
to relieve themselves of this heavy burden, it was only 
repealed in the reign of her present Majesty. 

Sir John Atkins was appointed Governor, in 1674, 
at a salary of eight hundred pounds per annum; he fixed 
his seat of government at Fontabelle. It is considered 
that the island reached its greatest prosperity at 
this period. When he assumed the government 
the population was estimated at 150,000 inhabitants 
During his administration, an insurrection that threat- 
ened to ruin the island was fortunately discovered, 
and only the adoption of the most enegetic measures 
prevented its breaking out. The conspiracy was 
planned among the Coromantee negroes and had been 
in agitation for nearly three years. Their plan was to 
choose Cuffy, a Coromantee negro, for their king, and 
by sounding trumpets and gourds and setting the 
sugar cane on fire, they intended to give the signal to 
their confederates. Their masters were all to be 
massacred, and the handsomest of the white women 



82 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

were to be reserved for their desires. Anna, a house 
servant of Justice Hall, overheard the conversation 
from the garden between a young Coromantee and 
his comrade, the former refusing to have anything to 
do with the plot. Anna prevailed afterwards upon 
the young negro to reveal the conspiracy to his mas- 
ter, who immediately conveyed information of it to the 
governor, who took such energetic measures that the 
leaders in the plot were apprehended before their plan 
was carried into execution. Seventeen were found 
guilty and executed, six being burnt alive and eleven 
beheaded; five, who were impeached, hung themselves 
before their trial came on. 

The rebellion of the Duke of Monmouth, the 
natural son of Charles the Second, caused a number 
of unfortunate persons, implicated, or accused of 
being so, to be transported to Barbados and other 
West India Islands. These unfortunate men were 
treated most inhumanly; on their arrival they were 
sold as goods or chattels. Among these unfortunate 
men were divines, officers, and gentlemen who were 
employed in menial work, "grinding at the mills, 
attending the furnaces, and digging in that scorching 
island, being bought and. sold from one planter to 
another, or attached like horses or beasts for the 
debt of their masters, being whipped at the whipping 
post as rogues, and sleeping in sties worse than hogs 
in England." 

Oldmixon observes that they were treated with 
such rigor that their condition was rendered almost 
as bad as that of the negroes. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 83 



CHAPTER VIII. 

WARS WITH FRANCE. ABOLITION OF SLAVERY. 



The revolution of 1688 caused the flight of James 
the Second to France, and William and Mary came to 
the throne; when the information of these occurrences 
arrived in the West Indies, the French, who were the 
protectors of the Stuarts, commenced hostile proceed- 
ings against the English settlers in St. Kitts. They 
were joined by some Irish Roman Catholics, and com- 
mitted the greatest cruelties, not only in St. Kitts, 
but likewise in the adjacent islands. A party of 
Irish landed at Anguilla and treated the defenceless 
inhabitants most barbarously. Oldmixon, in his 
ancient chronicle, says: "These wretches of Wild 
Irish, thinking it impossible for men to be poorer than 
themselves, took away from the miserable inhabitants 
even the little they seemed to have ; drove the peace- 
ful toilers of the sea from the island, and occupied 
their settlement." They enjoyed, for a time at least, 
all the privileges of home rule, and spent their time 
fighting among themselves until England assumed 
the direction of their affairs. This being the state of 
affairs in the West Indies, the Barbadians began to 
fear for their own safety; and when General Codring- 
ton, who had been appointed Governor of the Lee- 
ward Islands, applied to Barbados for assistance, the 
Assembly decided to give all the help they could. 
Sir Timothy Thornhill volunteered to lead an expedi- 
tion tor their relief. He was authorized to raise a 



84 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

regiment, which was done in less than two weeks, and 
equipped at the public expense. It sailed from 
Carlisle Bay on the ist of August, 1689, and arrived 
at Antigua on the 5th, and was there joined by General 
Codrington's forces. 

St. Bartholomew's was first attacked and captured, 
and seven hundred prisoners taken. The town of 
Basseterre and the island of St. Kitts were next taken 
after a desperate resistance on the part of the French. 
St. Eustatia surrendered after a five day's siege, and 
Anguilla re-captured. 

Sir Timothy Thornhill then returned with his regi- 
ment to Barbados, with the satisfaction of knowing 
that he and his troops had mainly contributed to the 
success of the British arms. On the 2nd of August, 
1692, the Legislature voted him its thanks for his 
gallant service, and gave him, as a present, one 
thousand pounds. 

This year a fearful contagion, probably yellow fever, 
brought on the slave ships from Africa, made its 
appearance. The mortality among the inhabitants 
was very great; many of the crews, both of men-of-war 
and merchantmen, died off completely. The great 
distress this caused on the island, and the decrease in 
the number of the whites in consequence of the fear- 
ful epidemic, encouraged the slaves to form a new 
conspiracy. A day was appointed for a general revolt, 
the Governor was to be massacred, the magazine with 
its stores to be seized, and the forts to be surprised. 
The project was nearly ripe for execution when it was 
fortunately discovered. Two of the leaders were 
overheard and instantly arrested; they refused to 
reveal their confederates, and rather submitted to be 
hung in chain for four days without food or drink. 
Their courage, however, at last gave way, and upon a 
promise of a free pardon, they confessed who their 
accomplices were. It was said the projected insur- 
rection was instigated by French emissaries from 
Martinique. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE C A RIB BEE ISLANDS. 85 

In 1693, a new expedition was send against the 
French; Barbados furnished and equipped two regi- 
ments, and gave the command to Colonels Salter and 
Boteler. The expense of this undertaking amounted 
to thirty thousand pounds, which was a heavy 
burden for so small a community. The squadron 
was under the command of Sir Francis Wheeler, 
with fifteen hundred troops from England under 
Colonel Foulk. Colonel Codrington, with Lloyd's 
regiment and a body of troops from Antigua and the 
other Leeward islands, joined the fleet. An attack 
was made on St. Pierre, Martinique, in which the 
Barbadians distinguished themselves; but when suc- 
cess seemed certain, the troops received orders to re- 
embark. The fever which prevailed to a fearful 
extent among the troops was given as the reason of 
the ill success; but it was said that many of the officers 
being Irish Roman Catholics, dissatisfaction among 
the commanders was really the chief cause of the 
failure.* 

On the 4th of May, 1702, Queen Anne declared war 
against France and Spain. Commodore Walker was 
despatched to Barbados with six ships of the line, 
having four regiments on board, the latter being billeted 
on the inhabitants. 

Barbados entered into schemes of privateering, and 
many vessels were fitted out to act against 
the French. Sixteen of them meeting together near 
Guadeloupe, the men landed on the island, burnt a 
great part of the estates at the west end of it, and 
carried off a large number of negroes. 

The slaves made another attempt this year to 
throw off their yoke. It was their intention to seize 
the forts and to burn Bridgetown ; the plot was dis- 
covered, and many of the leaders executed. 

In 1761, the British ministry planned to an- 
nihilate the power of France in the West Indies. 

♦Schomburgh's History of Barbados, pp. 306. 



86 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

A regiment was raised in Barbados under the com 
mand of Sir John Yeamans, and these troops joined 
General Monckton's forces. Upon the 5th of 
January, 1762, Admiral Rodney, with eighteen sail of 
the line, besides frigates, bombs and transports, and 
Monckton's force of nearly fourteen thousand men 
sailed from Barbados and anchored on the 8th in St. 
Anne's Bay in Martinique. 

On the 14th of February, that island finally sur- 
rendered: The expense of raising and equipping the 
corps of Barbadians amounted to ,£24,000. Besides 
the troops, the island had sent a large supply of pro- 
visions to the army while it was besieging Mar- 
tinique. The House of Commons in England voted 
,£10,000 as a compensation to the Government of 
Barbados for the assistance it had rendered in this 
expedition. 

The success of the British arms produced, in 1765, 
friendly relations between the contending powers; 
but Martinique and Guadeloupe were restored to 
France. 

The unfortunate measure of the British ministry, 
imposing the unconstitutional Stamp Act on the col- 
onies of America, excited in Barbados the greatest 
astonishment ; nevertheless, his Majesty's loyal 
subjects in this island submitted to it. Not so 
in the island of St. Kitts, where the inhabitants, in- 
stigated by the crews of some vessels from New 
England, burnt all the stamped papers upon the island, 
and obliged the officers appointed for their distribu- 
tion to resign their offices. They then went over, in 
a body, to Nevis to assist their neighbors in taking 
the same rebellious proceedings. The inhabitants of 
Barbados remonstrated against a measure evidently 
so pernicious, and the government was obliged to 
abandon the project. During the few months it was 
in- force, .£2,500 were collected at Barbados and re- 
mitted to England. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 87 

The unfortunate dissentions between the colonies 
and the mother country, produced most disasterous 
results in the West Indies, as these colonies depended 
for supplies upon the continent of North America. 
When the rupture took place, the Barbadians found 
that their stock of provisions was estimated at 
scarcely six week's consumption. Captain Payne 
arrived at that time from Boston, for the purpose of 
purchasing provisions for the British troops who were 
besieged in Boston by Washington's army, and were 
in distress for want of arrivals from Europe. The 
Governor gave him permission to purchase the 
requisite provisions ; a step, which raised the greatest 
complaints among the populace. It was prohibited 
by the Assembly, who sent an address to the King 
professing their loyalty and attachment to the throne 
and beseeching his Majesty to relieve the prevailing 
misery and distress by timely assistance. The mem- 
orial stated that the island had eighty thousand black 
and twelve thousand white inhabitants to support. 
The petition for relief to the British ministry was 
heard in 1778, and the government sent three thous- 
and barrels of flour, three thousand barrels of her- 
rings, and a large quantity of peas and beans, with 
direction to sell them at cost. The Barbadian Gov-* 
ernment sent an address to the King expressing their 
gratitude for this acceptable relief. 

1'he numerous American privateers which now 
infested these seas materially injured the trade of the 
islands; one ventured by night into Speight's Bay, 
where on discovery, he was fired at from Orange 
Fort and forced to withdraw. Another privateer 
captured several fishing boats with many slaves aboard. 
France having recognized the independence of the 
United States, war was again declared against that 
country. These stirring times awakened the old 
chivalric spirit which so eminently distinguished the 
Barbadians of a century before. A descendant of the 



88 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

brave Sir Timothy Thornhill, who bore his name, 
having raised and equipped a company of infantry at his 
own expense, it did effiicent service under Gen- 
era] Vaughan at St. Lucia and Antigua. In this war 
the Barbadian troops as usual distinguished them- 
selves by their bravery. 

The peace with France was of but short duration; 
hostilities commenced early in 1803, letters of marque 
and reprisal were granted against the French and 
Batavian Republics. The first Cousul was at that 
time too seriously occupied in subjugating the insur- 
gent slaves in Hayti to be in a condition to form 
schemes for invading the British colonies. England 
therefore took the offensive, and Commodore Hood 
with General Grinfield sailed on the 19th of June 
from Carlisle Bay to attack the French and Dutch 
possessions; where the greatest success crowned their 
endeavors. The colonies of St. Lucia, Tobago, 
Demeraraand Berbice were successfully reduced, and 
fell into their hands without any great loss. Sir 
Samuel Hood reported on the 20th of November that 
since the breaking out of hostilities he had captured 
thirty-nine vessels, six of which were vessels of war. 
Among the prizes was the famous French privateer 
schooner L'Harmonie, which had been more destruc- 
tive than any other that had appeared in the West 
Indies. 

Napoleon sent Admiral Missiessy in 1805 with a 
squadron of five sail of the line, three frigates, two 
brigs, and transports with four thousand troops, under 
the command of LaGrange, to the West Indies. 
They arrived on the 20th of February in Martinique. 
When information of the arrival of this formidable 
armament in the Caribbean sea reached Barbados, it 
excited the greatest apprehensions in the inhabitants, 
and it was deemed necessary to adopt the strongest 
measures to guard this island against surprise. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CAR IB BEE ISLANDS. 89 

The French squadron first made a descent upon 
Dominica; and having levied a contribution upon the 
merchants of Rosean, next went to St. Kitts where 
they arrived on the 5th of March and soon effected 
a landing. They exacted from the colonists ^"16,000 
in currency and j£ 10,000 sterling, in a bill which was 
negotiated by an American merchant resident of 
St. Kitts. From thence they proceeded to Nevis and 
Montserrat, both of which were laid under contribu- 
tion and the ships in the harbor destroyed. 

When the news of the descent of these freebooters 
upon these islands became known in Barbados, the 
inhabitants feared that a similar fate might await 
them. The arrival of Admiral Cochrane on the 3rd 
of April with a naval reinforcement, was therefore 
hailed with the greatest delight. 

Another French fleet of eleven sail of the line, six 
frigates and two corvetts, under the command of 
Admiral Villieneuve, left the harbor of Toulon on the 
30th of March and entered Fort Royal in Martinique 
on the 14th of May. 

Lord Nelson in the Victory, with the fleet under his 
command, arrived at Barbados on the 4th of June, 
1805, where he joined Admiral Corchrane. 

About this time information was received that 
Diamond Rock (previously mentioned in the chapter 
on Martinique) commanded by Captain Maurice had 
capitulated on condition that the garrison should 
be allowed to march to the Queen's Battery on the 
northerly slope of the rock, with drums beating and 
colors flying, and there lay down their arms. The 
troops stipulated to be sent to Barbados at the expense 
of the French government, but not to serve again until 
regularly exchanged. The garrison consisting of one 
hundred and eighty men including Captain Maurice 
and two officers, were consequently embarked on 
board La Fein and arrived at Barbados on the 6th of 
June. They had bravely defended themselves for 



90 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

three days against a squadron consisting of two sail of 
the line, one frigate, one brig, a schooner and eleven 
gunboats, manned by fifteen hundred men. Want of 
ammunition and water obliged them to surrender on 
the 2nd of June. A court martial was held on the 
"Circe" in Carlisle Bay on the 24th of June for the trial 
of Captain Maurice, the officers and crew of his 
Majesty's late " sloop Diamond Rock." They were 
honorably acquitted and highly commended for their 
spirited defence of the rock. This great conquest 
was the only achievement of the combined French 
and Spanish fleet in the West Indies this year. 

The news of Lord Nelson's great victory at Tra- 
falgar over the combined fleets of France and Spain 
on the 2 1st of October 1805, and his death in the 
action, reached Barbados on the 20th of December. 
The 23rd of the month was dedicated to the celebra- 
tion of the victory by a brilliant illumination in 
Bridgetown, and a funeral sermon on the death of 
the hero was preached on the ensuing 5th of Jan- 
uary in St. Michael's church. A general mourning was 
observed by the inhabitants of the island, and a sub 
scription was made for the purpose of erecting 
a monument to Nelson's memory which was erected 
in Bridgetown. On October 8th, 1809, Lieutenant- 
General George Beckwith was appointed Governor 
and Commander-in-chief of the island of Barbados, 
which gave general satisfaction. 

War vessels with a great reinforcement of troops 
arrived on the 29th of December 1808, and forming a 
part of the grand army which assembled under the 
command of Governor Beckwith, for the purpose of 
reducing those of the West Indies islands which 
were still in possession of the French. The naval 
force was under the command of Admiral Corchrane. 
The expedition embarked on the 28th of January 
1809, and arrived off Martinique the following day. 
After a five days seige the island capitulated. The 



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TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 91 

gratifying news was received in Bridgetown with 
demonstrations of joy, and a brilliant illumination of 
the town. The enemy's squadron having taken 
shelter in the Saints, General Maitland with a corps 
of three thousand men, was sent to co-operate with 
the navy under Sir Alexander Corchrane in the 
reduction of those islands. The forts were captured 
and the troops surrendered, but the French squadron 
escaped. 

On the 22nd of January 18 10 the army under Sir 
George Beckwith sailed from Martinique for the 
reduction of Guadaloupe, the last stronghold of the 
French in the West Indies and the South American 
coast. The island was in possession of the English 
within nine days after the landing of the first division. 
The French lost six hundred in killed and wounded and 
sixteen hundred prisoners, besides eight hundred 
dispersed about the country. St. Martins surren- 
dered on the 1 6th of February, St. Eustatius capitu- 
lated on the 22nd, and Saba on the same day. The 
capture of these small islands was of little importance 
in itself, but it accomplished the final expulsion of the 
French flag from the West Indian archipelago. The 
value of these islands to France, and the depredations 
on the British commerce made by swarms of priva- 
teers which were fitted out or found protection there, 
rendered their conquest one of the most^ important 
measure effected during that year; while another 
circumstance although not of primary importance 
rendered their conquest desirable, namely the uncer- 
tain position of affairs in 1809 between the United 
States and England : for in case of a rupture, these 
islands in the hands of France would have rendered 
a combination for the conquest of the British 
possessions not only probable but successful. Mar- 
tinique and Guaduloupe in the hands of an enemy 
were dangerous neighbors to Barbados, and the 
rejoicings of the inhabitants at their conquest was 



92 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

therefore natural, not only as a success of the 
British arms but likewise as removing appre- 
hensions which were not unfounded. War was de- 
clared by the United States against Great Britain on 
the 1 8th of June 1812; scarcely had it been announced 
when swarms of American privateers spread over 
the West Indian seas. Thirty had sailed the day 
following its announcement. These privateers almost 
annihilated the commerce of the British islands in 
these seas; several were cruising in the vicinity of 
Barbados and captured the mail boats; and scarcely 
a vessel reached its ports without being boarded by 
Americans, or if left to proceed, without heavy con- 
tributions being exacted. The 'Townshend packet' had 
an engagement with two American schooners, the 
'Tom' and 'Bony,' for three hours, within sight of 
Barbados; and was ultimately obliged to surrender, 
having previously thrown the mail bags overboard. 
She was relieved after the passengers had made some 
agreement for ransom. Another mail boat, the "Lap- 
wing," was taken by the American privateer " Fox " 
within sight of the island, off the Crane. Many 
witnesses from the island observed the privateer in 
chase of a brig maintaining a running fight, until 
they approached land abreast of the Crane, where 
the brig vainly made several tacks inshore to avoid 
her pursuer ; but towards dusk the vessels were 
alongside of each other, and the brig was taken. 

Nearly every colony adopted some measures 
of defence against privateers. The beautiful private 
armed schooner " Louisa," mounting eight nine- 
pound carronades and a long nine pounder on a 
traverse, with a complement of one hundred men left 
Carlisle Bay on the 9th of January 18 13, and did 
good service in protecting the commerce of the 
island. The merchants of Barbados also purchased 
a brig called " The Brave," which had been captured 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 93 

from the enemy, and offered her to his Majesty's ser- 
vice to be employed on the island station under the 
name of the Barbados frigate. In eighteen months 
she captured the French privateer Napoleon of 
eighteen guns and one hundred and eighty men; 
L'Heuruex, of twelve guns and ninety men; La 
Desiree of fourteen guns and ninety men; a valuable 
ship from Cayenne; and a Spanish brig: and recap- 
tured an English Guineaman and an American ship. 
The Barbados captured the American privateer Fox, 
of five guns and seventy men, off Auguilla; which gave 
great satisfaction to the inhabitants of Barbados, as 
she was the privateer that had previously cut out the 
mail packet Lapwing in sight of the island. 

The treaty of peace between England and the 
United States was ratified by President Madison on 
the 1 8th of February 1815; this news was hailed 
with delight in Barbados, for the war had entailed 
great losses and an enormous expenditure on both 
countries. It subjected Barbados to great incon- 
venience, as she depended at that period much more 
upon foreign importation than upon her own resources 
for the sustenance of her laboring population. 

The island was destined to enjoy scarcely one 
year of peace before it was plunged into the horrors 
of a negro insurrection. On an estate then called 
Franklyn's, -since known as the Vineyard- there lived 
a free colored man named Washington Franklin, a 
person of loose morals and debauched habits, but 
superior to those with whom he intimately associated. 
To him was afterwards distinctly traced the practice 
of reading and discussing before the slave population 
those violent speeches which were at that period 
delivered against slavery in the mother country. 
There is no doubt that he conceived and planned 
the outbreak that spread such desolation over the 
island. He artfully disseminated the report among 
the negroes that on Christmas day 181 5, or at latest 



94 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

on the succeeding New Year's day, a period would be 
put to their slavery; and being disappointed, it was 
given out that the owners prevented this. Distorted 
accounts of the insurrection of the negroes in Hayti 
were related, as worthy of imitation and as exhibiting 
a prospect of those rights which were unjustly with- 
held. 

At eight o'clock in the evening on Easter Sunday, 
14th of April 18 16, a heap of cane-trash was fired 
on Bayley's plantation, as the signal of revolt ; 
it was promptly repeated by the setting on fire the 
trash-heaps and cane fields on every estate in the 
upper part of the parish of St. Philip. The fearful 
reality now burst upon the white inhabitants, and 
they were awakened to the peril of their situation. 
The storm burst upon them wholly unprepared for 
such an event. The fire spread during the whole 
night from field to field, from one estate to another; 
a long night of horror and uncertainty was at last 
succeeded by day, and the first gleam of light dis- 
covered fresh indication of revolt. " Mill after mill 
on the revolted estates was turned into the wind to 
fly unbended, and bell after bell was rung to an- 
nounce that the slaves of such plantation had joined 
in the revolt. The rebellious mob increased at every 
step as it advanced ; on arriving at the residence of 
a Mr. Bayne, who kept a store of dry goods and hard- 
ware, the slaves broke into the it and armed them- 
selves with bills, axes, cutlasses and whatever edged 
instrument they could lay hold of, and then proceeded 
with increased boldness to the plantations of Harrow, 
Busby Park, Oughterson's, the Thicket, Three 
Houses, and the Grove, committing every kind of 
outrage on the estates on their way. 

The earliest news of the outbreak reached Bridge- 
town on Monday morning between one and two 
o'clock; the island was immediately placed under 
martial law, and the troops called to arms. The 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 95 

militia was placed under the command of Colonel 
Codd, and the regular troops under Colonel Mayers; 
and between eight and nine o'clock Monday morning 
they commenced their march towards the parish of 
St. Philip. The Christ Church battallion of militia 
assembled first at Fairy Valley, and the first opposi- 
tion was made to the' progress of the rebels by a 
detachment of that corps, which about noon met a 
large body of the insurgents at Lowther's yard. 
Several were armed with muskets, and they displayed 
the colors of the St. Philip's battalion which they had 
stolen. The rebels dared the militia to "come on ;" 
they were, however, quickly dispersed, but not with- 
out bloodshed on their side. The regulars, in con- 
junction with the militia, advanced rapidly toward 
the parish of St. Philip, which suffered most, as the 
inhabitants had been unfortunately prevented by 
the general and simultaneous rising of the slaves 
from uniting for their own defence. Thence the 
insurrection had spread into the adjourning parishes 
of St. John and St. George. The first body of the 
insurgents were met at Sandford plantation in St. 
Philip's, but it dispersed as soon as fired upon. 
A soldier was shot from one of the negro houses 
wherein most of the slaves had hidden themselves. 
The military were soon in possession of the whole 
parish. Some negro houses were burnt on the fol- 
lowing day ; by the evening, however, the insurrection 
may be said to have been subdued. 

The negroes implicated in this outbreak were tried 
by court martial ; upon full evidence of their guilt, 
several were convicted, and the sentence of death 
was carried into effect on the . plantation to which 
the offenders belonged. Upwards of four hundred 
prisoners were sent on board of ships in the bay. 
One hundred and twenty-three were convicted and 
sent to Honduras on the ship "Francis and Mary " 
on the 25th of January 18 17, where they were dis- 



96 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

posed of according to their crimes ; and thus ended 
the slave insurrection. 

The struggle for liberty in the former Spanish 
territories in South America and the concentration 
of lawless characters who profited by it, caused the 
Mexican and Caribbean sea to swarm with pirates, 
who, under the Spanish or Columbian colors, com- 
mitted every outrage on the vessels of European 
nations. The United States and England sent 
several powerful squadrons to protect their trade 
and citizens especially near Cuba, where the pirates 
gathered on its coast, were in most instances 
the crews of vessels formerly employed in the 
African slave trade and comprised the refuse of 
all countries. These outlaws committed the great- 
est cruelties upon the merchantmen of all nations ; 
a state of affairs which continued for ten years 
before the Caribbean Sea was entirely free from such 
depredations. 

The several attempts which had been made during 
previous years, by the free colored and free black inhab- 
itants of the island, to obtain a repeal of various acts 
which continued their political disabilities, had been 
hitherto fruitless. Mr. Robert Haynes, member for 
St. John's parish, introduced on the 22nd of Febru- 
ary 1 83 1, a bill into the House of Assembly, the object 
of which was to remove these disabilities. It passed 
the House on the 28th of March, only four mem- 
bers voting against it. This act conferred upon 
the colored class the same rights as those possessed 
by the white inhabitants, to elect, or be elected mem- 
bers of the House of Assembly, vestrymen, or to 
serve as jurors to try real actions, provided such 
individuals should have the necessary qualifications 
of age and the possession of the stipulated free-hold 
or other property. An act was also passed relieving 
the political disabilities of His Majesty's subjects in 
Barbados professing the Jewish religion. Both of 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 97 

these acts subsequently received the King's sanction. 
Having now arrived at a period when slavery was 
forever banished from the British dominion, and nearly 
eight hundred thousand human beings were released 
from bondage, it will be well to say a few words on 
this most important subject. Among the numerous 
benevolent individuals who so early as the seven- 
teenth century raised their voices against the iniquity 
of the slave trade, was George Fox, the founder of 
the Society of Quakers or Friends. Their efforts 
became more decided, when Mr. Granville Sharp 
with infinite difficulty had established the right of 
slaves to their freedom on coming to England. Lord 
Mansfield declared on the 22nd of June 1772, in the 
name of the whole bench, that slavery could not 
exist upon the soil of England. Public attention was 
then strongly attracted to this question, and great 
and laudable efforts were made to procure the aboli- 
tion of the slave trade. On the 18th of April 1791, 
Mr. Wilberforce moved in the House of Commons, 
a resolution that all further importation of slaves 
should be prevented, The motion was lost, but it 
did not prevent him from renewing it at almost every 
succeeding session. The opposition to the measure 
in 1805 aroused the indignation of the British people, 
so the Government now took the initiative step in 
the great act. An Order of his Majesty in Council 
interdicted the importation of slaves into British 
colonies. The united claims of justice and humanity 
triumphed ultimately over every opposition, and an 
imperial act dated the 25th of March 1807 decreed 
the prohibition of the slave trade under heavy penal- 
ties, offering bounties to those who should be instru- 
mental in detecting transgression against it. This 
was the first serious blow struck against slavery. 
Although at that early period the debates did not 
breathe a thought that the promoters of the question 
intended to undermine the whole fabric; it must have 



98 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

been evident from that moment that slavery could 
not remain permanently. The two evils were so 
closely connected that the defeat of the first involved 
the ultimate destruction of the latter. 

In the year 1814, after the peace, Great Britain 
endeavored to obtain the consent of France, Spain, 
Portugal and the United States to the abolition of 
the slave trade. The party advocating the entire 
abolition of slavery in the British dominions had 
meanwhile grown stronger. Missionaries in connec- 
tion with the philanthropical societies were sent to 
the West Indies, who reported on the state of the 
colonies, not in all instances in the pure sense of 
charity. Mr. Wilberforce, now far advanced in age, 
was succeeded by Thomas F. Buxton as the great 
champion of the cause in the House of Commons. 
Mr. Buxton brought forward a resolution in March, 
1823, "declaring that slavery was repugnant to the 
principles of the British Constitution and of the 
Christian religion, and that it ought to be gradually 
abolished throughout the British dominion." The 
motion was rejected in the House, and in order to 
allay the feelings of the nation at this defeat, one of 
a similar nature was substituted by Mr. Canning 
and ultimately adopted. The resolutions were cau- 
tiously worded ; nevertheless they in the most distinct 
terms recognized the principle that Parliament ought 
to aid in the extinction of slavery. 

It was an epoch in the history of this great meas- 
ure ; it was the first time that the abolition of slavery 
was mentioned in the House of Parliament on the 
authority of the Ministers ; and this proceeding 
now led to decided steps on their part, and they 
recommended to the colonial legislatures the ameliora- 
tion of the condition of the slaves. This recommenda- 
tion was received by the masters with indignation, as 
an infringement of their rights ; and it was denounced 
as an attempt of the British Parliament to legislate for 



TO BARBADOS AND THE C A RIB BEE ISLANDS. 99 

the colonies, a right which the colonies with separate 
legislatures did not recognize so far as this affair of in- 
ternal policy was concerned. The imperial Parliament 
wisely forbore to press its claims, or to interfere further 
with the colonial Assemblies at that period. 

Left to themselves the colonies exerted themselves 
to render the state of the slaves more comfortable. 
The slave laws of Barbados had been consolidated 
as early as 1817, and an association was formed in 
1823 for the purpose of affording religious instruc- 
tion to the slaves. Eight thousand negroes received 
religious instruction through the instrumentality 
of this association, which numbered among its 
members, the Governor, the clergy and the most 
respectable part of the inhabitants. Nor was this 
action restricted to Barbados, but in the other 
colonies progressive improvements were adopted, 
such as might prepare the slave for a future partici- 
pation in civil rights and privileges. 

The persistent anti-slavery agitation in England, 
together with the constant dread of a negro insurrec- 
tion, and the fact that commerce was subjected to the 
depredations of lawless pirates, whose depredations 
raised the insurance to the rates prevailing in war 
times, combined to depress the value of property in the 
British West Indies at this time at least forty per cent. 

The year 1833 brought at last the decision that 
slavery should cease at a determined period. This 
great result was accomplished without the loss of a 
single life, or the firing of a gun, or a disturbance of any 
kind. The bill was introduced by Mr. Stanley, after- 
wards Lord Stanley, at that time Secretary for the 
Colonies ; it passed the House of Lords on the 19th 
of August 1833 and receiving his Majesty's sanction, 
was made known by the King's proclamation 
dated September 4th, 1833. Mr. Wilberforce, the 
great advocate of suffering mankind, lived to hear of 
the gratifying progress which the measure for the 

L.ofC. 



100 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

entire abolition of slavery had made in the imperial 
Parliament, and died on the 29th of July 1833 in his 
seventy-fourth year, a few days before Mr. Stanley's 
bill passed the House of Commons. 

This bill enacted that from the 1st of August, 
1834 all persons who should then be duly registered 
as slaves, and be of the full age of six years and up- 
wards, should become apprenticed laborers in the 
service of the person previously entitled to their ser- 
vices as slaves. The apprenticeship of such laborers 
as had previously served as domestics, trades- 
men, mechanics etc., was to cease on the 1st of 
August 1838 ; and of such as were attached to the 
cultivation of the soil and manufacturing of sugar, on 
the 1st of August 1840. It was further declared 
that on the 1st of August 1834, slavery should be 
abolished and unlawful throughout the colonies. The 
Act decreed that a sum of twenty million pounds 
sterling should be granted as a compensation to the 
owners of the slaves, which amount was to be dis- 
tributed and apportioned by a commission of arbitra- 
tion. Of this sum ,£1,721,345 19s. 6d. sterling fell 
to the share of Barbados. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CAR IB BEE ISLANDS. 101 



CHAPTER IX. 

INHABITANTS, WHITES, COLORED AND NEGROES. 



The whites form the governing race in Barbados, 
nearly the entire wealth and business of the islands 
being in their hands, although they form at the present 
time but a small and constantly decreasing fraction 
of the whole population of the island, for out of a 
total population of about 200,000 there are only about 
15,000 whites, 50,000 colored or mixed, and 135,000 
negroes. 

When the English settlers colonized this place, 
they changed their sky, but not their characteristics ; 
they brought with them the obstinate tenacity of 
purpose, dogged perseverance, and untiring energy 
of their race, and turned this island into a garden. 
They brought with them, too, that love of freedom 
and sturdy independence that characterized the New 
England settlers, their friends and relatives. 

Henry Winthrop, the son of John Winthrop, the 
great Puritan Governor, came here with the first band 
of settlers under Captain Powell, three years before 
his illustrious father founded the town of Boston and 
Massachusetts Colony, These were the men who 
colonized Barbados ; such for the most part their 
sons remain, still Englishmen, though their fathers 
for several generations may have been born on 
the island ; and for this reason they are still, and 
must remain, the governing class. Many families 



102 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

have altogether left the colony, probably retiring to 
England, and thus of the old names a great number 
are now missing. Members again of other old 
families have come to grief from one cause or another, 
and their descendants are now living in humble 
positions, or have emigrated to other islands, or to the 
United States. These early settlers were the uncon- 
scious pioneers of all the wealth and commerce and 
beauty and science, which has in latter centuries 
made this lovely isle the richest gem of all the tropic 
seas. 

The poor whites occupy relatively the same 
position in Barbados that the "crackers" do in 
the Southern States. They are the descendants 
of convicts, or of prisoners taken in the civil wars 
in England during the Commonwealth, and the 
Duke of Monmouth's rebellion. Many of the political 
prisoners were English gentlemen, royalist officers, 
or divines, sent here and sold as slaves for a term of 
years. 

The officials of that day was not so particular 
as they might have been, and did not always take 
the trouble to make sure whether these gentlemen 
were active royalists after the execution of the King 
or not, and the petition of several of them to the 
home government seems to show that little inquiry was 
made. The more that there were of these unfortunates 
to be sold as plantation slaves the better it was for 
the pockets of the public officials who had charge of 
their transportation and sale ; and so royalist gentlemen 
changed hands quickly at the rate of fifteen hundred 
pounds of sugar per man. When such treatment was 
meted out to English gentlemen, what wonder that 
thousands of Irish, men and women, were sent here 
by Cromwell and sold into slavery, leaving their 
descendants to lead a miserable existence, not fit to 
work, but not ashamed to beg. The memory of 
these things has passed away in England and is 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CA RIB BEE ISLANDS. 103 

even lost in Barbados, where the contemptuous name 
given by the Ulster settlers to the bare legged native 
Irish, sticks to their descendants today, although it 
has lost all meaning to the Barbadian, who do not 
know why he calls another, or is styled himself, a 
" Red-leg ; " a curious instance of the persistence of a 
name notwithstanding the loss of its signification. 
It is said in Ireland that the cry of Cromwell's 
Puritan troopers when "harrying the Irish " was "To 
Hell with them, or to Connaught," Having fairly 
filled the latter province, and pious troopers as they 
were, not being familiar with the route of the other 
locality, they determined to send them to the next 
hottest place they knew of, and so shipped them be- 
tween decks to Barbados. These things are still 
remembered in Ireland, for the bitterest invocation 
that an Irish peasant can call down on the head of 
an enemy today is embodied in "The curse o' Crum- 
mel on ye." 

If Cromwell sent the native Irish to Barbados to 
prevent their making trouble in Ireland, he only suc- 
ceeded in changing the scene of their operations, 
judging by the two following proclamations copied 
from the original records of the Council and House 
of Assembly of Barbados. 

" Governor's Proculamation for Disarming the Irish." 

" My selfe and Councill havinge taken into consideration 
ye considerable nomber of Irish freeman and servants within 
this Island and the Dangerous consequences (in this 
juncture of tyme of Wars betwixte the Commonwealth of 
Ingland and Spaine, both in Europe & heere in America) 
that may ensue to this place upon the appearence of an 
Enemy, if the Irish & such others as are of the Romish 
Religion should be permitted to have any sorte of Armes 

or Ammunition within their houses or Custodye 

Therefore in the name of his Highness Oliver, Lord Pro- 
tector of the Commonwealth of Ingland, etc." 

" Signed Danyell Searles." 



104 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

"Governor's Proclamation, 22 Sept. 1657." 
" Whereas itt hath of Late binn taken notice that severall 
of the Irish nation ffreemen and women who have now 
Certain place of residence and others of them doe wander 
up and down from plantation to plantation as vagabonds 
refusinge to Labour or to put themselves into any Service, 
but continuing in a dissolute, lewd and sloathful kind of 
life, putt themselves on evill practises as pilferinges, thefts, 
roberyes and felonious Acts for their subsistency and indeav- 
ourd by there example and persuations to draw Servants 
unto them of sd Nation to the same kind of Idle and 

Wicked courses Therefore in the name of his 

Higness the Lorde Protector, etc." 

" Signed Danyell Searles." 
Ligon informs us that when he visited Barbados 
in 1647 there were 50,000 whites and more than 
double that number of negroes there, which is prob- 
ably an exaggeration. He says, " The island is divided 
into three sorts of men, viz., Masters, Servants and 
Slaves. The slaves and their prosterity being sub- 
ject to their Masters forever are kept and preserved 
with greater care than their servants, who are theirs 
but for five years according to the laws of the Island. 
Truly, I have seen such cruelty done to Servants, as 
I did not think one Christian could have done to 
another. Upon the arrival of any ship that brings 
servants to the Island, the Planters go aboard ; and 
having bought such of them as they like, send them 
with a guide to his Plantation, and being come, com- 
mands them instantly to make their cabins, which 
are made of sticks, withs and plantine leaves. The 
next day they are rung out with a Bell to work at 
six o'clock in the morning, with a severe Overseer 
to command them, till the bell rings again, which is 
at eleven o'clock, after dinner at one o'clock they are 
rung out again to the field there to work till six. 
When the negroes are brought to us, the Planters 
buy them out of the ship, where they find them naked. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 105 

They choose them as they do horses in a market, the 
strongest and most beautiful and youthful, yield the 
greatest price. Thirty pound sterling is a price for 
the best man Negro, and twenty-five for a woman ; 
the children are at easier rates. As for the Indians, 
we have but a few, and those fetched from other 
Countries, some from the neighboring Islands, some 
from the Main, which we make slaves, the women are 
used in making the Cassavie and bread in which they 
are better versed than the Negroes, the men we use 
for footmen and killing of fish, which they are good 
at ; with their own bows and arrows they will go out, 
and in a day's time kill as much fish as will serve a 
family of a dozen persons for two or three days. 
They are very active men and apt to learn anything 
sooner than the Negroes, and as different from them 
in shape almost as in color. We had an Indian 
woman, a slave, in the house, who was of excellent 
shape, and color of a pure, bright bay, who would not 
be moved by any means to wear clothes. This In- 
dian dwelling upon the Sea-coast, upon the Main, an 
English ship put into a Bay, and sent some of her 
men ashore, to try what victuals or water they could 
find. But the Indians perceiving them to go far into 
the Country, interrupted them in their return and 
fell upon them chasing them into a wood, some were 
killed and some taken, but a young man amongst 
them straggling from the rest, was met by this In- 
dian maid, who upon the first sight fell in love with 
him, and hid him close from her Countrymen, in a 
cave and there fed him, till he could safely go down 
to the shore, where the ship lay at anchor, expecting 
the return of their friends. Seeing them upon the 
shore they sent the long boat for them, took them 
aboard and brought them away. But the youth, when 
he came aboard at Barbados, forgot the kindness oi 
the poor maid, that had ventured her life for his 
safety, and sold her for a slave, who was as free born 
as he. And so poor Yarico for her love, lost her 



106 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

liberty." A large pond on the Kendal plantation is 
to this day called Yarico's Pond, the place where 
Ligon first met the unfortunate Indian girl. 

During the civil war in Barbados, the negroes seem 
to have made as much trouble for the planters as the 
Irish did, for at the same time that Governor Searle 
issued his proclamation against the Irish, the Coun- 
cil passed the following order concerning the negroes. 

" Commission for ye Generall Hunting of Negroes." 

" The Councill and Gent, of the Assemblye taking into 
consideration the grate nomber of Negroes that are out in 
Rebellion committing murthers, Roberies and Divers other 
mischeifes to many of the inhabitants of this Island desired 
the Rtt Hon. the Governor that he would pleased to Issue 
Commissions for a generall huntinge of the sd Negroes 
through the Island upon a Certain Daye to be by him 
appointed, to the ende such evils may for the future bee 
prevented and the Island preserv'd in peace and tran- 
quility. Sept. 23, 1657." 

Most of the inhabitants of Barbados are black ; 
the colored people, by which name the Mulattoes, 
Quadroons and Octoroons are known in the West 
Indies, shade off from brown to copper-color 
and then to a sickly yellow. The copper-colored 
or "red people," as they are called, here have the 
advantage over the pure negro in good looks, 
having probably some Indian blood, as many Indians 
were sent here in the early days and sold into 
slavery. These people have often stalwart and stately 
figures. When, young, and while their faces preserve 
the roundness of youth, the colored people are fairly 
good looking ; but men and women, especially the 
latter, age very quickly, so that a handsome colored 
woman of over thirty years of age is hard to find, and 
as to a handsome negro or negress one would be a 
veritable "black swan." 

There is no doubt that the continued prosperity of 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 107 

Barbados since the emancipation of the slaves is 
owing to the density of the black and colored popula- 
tion. The population of Barbados is nearly 1,200 to the 
square mile, it being the most densely populated place 
in the world. In Jamaica and other West Indian 
islands, wherever on emancipation the newly ransomed 
slave could " squat " on unappropriated fertile land, he 
did so. Prefering the unlimited enjoyment of his 
ease to any dignity he saw associated with labor, 
strongly suspecting that the West Indies had not 
been included in the primal curse, and being certain 
that without any sweat of his brow he could eat 
things to him sweeter than bread, he struck against 
work, and contented himself with doing no more than 
the very little that was necessary to support life and to 
buy himself a scanty amount of clothing. Thus great 
tracts of fertile land were allowed to go out of culti- 
vation, every plantation which was permitted to run to 
waste increasing the area open to the squatter, who 
indeed naturally preferred to settle upon land that 
had been lately tilled, and where fruit trees were 
already flourishing, rather than to make his own Eden 
on fresh and hitherto uncultivated soil, requiring 
laborious work to clear. A few cocoanut and bread- 
fruit trees and a few banana and sugar cane plants, 
with a small patch of yams, sufficed for all his wants. 

In this way the results of emancipation were much 
more disasterous in the other islands than in Barbados ; 
in the latter place there was not a foot of waste soil 
on which to squat, so that it was a question of either 
work or starvation with the Barbadian negro. 

When the extraordinary cheapness in Barbados 
of such living as satisfies the negro is considered, 
it will be seen that three or four day's work in a 
week at a shilling or eighteen pence per day is 
quite sufficient to enable the laborer to support 
himself in comfort. His honest income is supple- 
plemented of course by any chance appropriation 



108 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

of his neighbor's fowls or sugar cane that may 
come in his way, and he is aided by his concubine who 
generally provides by her own earnings for the main- 
tenance of herself and such of her children as may 
not have died of neglect. 

It is seldom that the Barbados negro will emigrate, 
though his fine physique makes him a valuable laborer 
when he is willing to work ; but the advantages of Bar- 
bados are too seductive to be counterbalanced by any 
inducements that his employers in other places can 
offer. He prefers a little work in Barbados with small 
pay, to high wages in Trinidad or Guiana. 

On the whole the Barbadian negro does not im- 
prove on close acquaintance, and a residence for a 
short time on the island will go far to evaporate any 
enthusiasm for " Free Suffrage, or the Brotherhood 
of Man." For notwithstanding some remarkable 
exceptions, the general verdict passed upon the negro 
as he appears in this island must be that he is a 
creature of a low type of humanity, whether his present 
condition be one of arrested development or of retro- 
gression from a higher state. 

There are black and colored men in Barbados 
who are gentlemen of culture, such as the late 
Sir Conrad Reeves, Chief Justice of Barbados, 
whom the writer had the pleasure of meeting 
several times. We also have had in the United 
States such men as the late Frederick Douglass, 
but to hold such men up as fair examples of the 
negro, race is much the same as if Shakespeare were 
taken as an example of the Anglo-Saxon race. 
These two men were probably the most prom- 
inent men of the negro race of their day in 
the world, and yet they were not fair speci- 
mens, for they each had white fathers. The 
intellectual growth of children is perhaps the best 
guide as to the modus operandi of Nature in the 
intellectual development of races of men. The 
savage is in much the same position with regard to 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 109 

the intellectual power of the average civilized man as 
a child is. The negro remains a grown-up child as 
regards the higher powers and faculties of the human 
race. This is strikingly exemplified in the experience 
of those engaged in teaching the negro, both in the 
West Indies and the United States. The little 
negroes up to the age of about twelve years are quite as 
sharp-witted and quick to learn as the white child, and 
are often precocious. But when the years of puberty 
are approached a change comes over the child. It is 
as if a potent voice said, "Thus far and no farther." 
The intellect and reasoning power seem to be suddenly 
arrested, the lower faculties and animal nature receive 
an impetus, and the clever child too often settles 
down into the dull and gross adult. This sudden 
change is accounted for by the fact that the negro 
brain is at this time arrested by the premature closing 
of the cranial sutures and lateral pressure of the 
frontal bone, the result being that the average weight 
of the negro's brain is ten ounces less than that of 
the Caucasian. 

There is at the present time in the United States 
upwards of ten million black and colored people, 
but out of this vast number there are not. a 
half dozen persons that have reached any position 
of prominence. Contrast this with other races that 
have endured as great an amount of persecution 
as ever the negro race has, particularly the Jewish 
people. If the negro race were the equal of other 
races it would be impossible to keep this number 
of people in subjection. 



110 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 



CHAPTER X. 

BARBADOS AS A HEALTH RESORT, AMUSEMENT 
AND RECREA TION. 



Barbados is one of the most salubrious places in 
the world ; the great extremes of from hot to cold, 
such as is experienced in many winter resorts, as in 
Florida, Italy and the south of France, being here 
unknown, its climate is especially adapted to make it 
an agreeable and advantageous winter residence for 
those afflicted with lung and throat trouble, who have 
to spend that season of the year out of England or 
the United States. 

The strongest argument in favor of the salubrity 
of Barbados is the fact, that the records of the 
garrison therefor the last twenty-five years show that 
it is the healthiest station at which British troops are 
quartered anywhere in the world. The purity of the 
air in Barbados, as shown by a most careful analysis 
by the government professor of chemistry, is remark- 
able ; the island being largely of coral formation, there 
are no swamps to breed malaria, and the northeast 
trade wind blowing constantly across the island 
clenses it of all impurities. The island enjoys almost 
perfect immunity from small-pox, scarlet fever, diph- 
theria, measles and other infectious diseases ; and 
when they do occur they are of an extremely 
mild type, owing probably to the constant and 
thorough ventilation, which the warmth of the climate 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CAR/BBEE ISLANDS. Ill 

permits and encourages. The disease that has until 
recently been answerable for the greatest number of 
preventible deaths, is typhoid fever. This illness is 
owing to the lack of any system of drainage outside 
of the garrison ; and in a country so densely popu- 
lated, the sewerage by infiltration finds its way into 
the wells and ponds from where the poor people de- 
rived their water. This is shown by the large decrease 
in this disease since the introduction of the water- 
supply from an unpolluted source, the town and 
suburbs being now supplied with the purest of water. 
The greatest scourge in the past has been yellow 
fever, but with strict quarantine regulations and 
greater attention to cleanliness, good air, and good 
water the ravages of the disease have become less 
frequent and destructive. There is probably no year 
in which cases of yellow fever are not introduced into 
Barbados from other West India islands, or from the 
mainland of America ; but for twenty years before 
1881, the disease had failed to spread and was con- 
fined to quarantine ; and since 1881, though several 
seamen brought it here, there has been no epidemic. 
The chance of yellow fever ever becoming epidemic 
on the island should not prevent invalids from visiting 
it as a health resort, for such an event is extremely 
problematical, especially during the cool season. 

The seasons in Barbados are but two, the wet and 
the dry, or the hot and the cool. The wet season 
lasts from the beginning of June to about the end of 
October, the dry extending over the remaining 
months. While the wet season lasts there are fre- 
quent and heavy showers, with occasional thunder 
storms. During the dry season, and especially 
throughout the latter half of November, through 
December, January, February, March and April, the 
northeast trade-wind blows steadily and the climate 
is delightful. The heat from the direct rays of the 
sun, as might be expected in a place so near the 



112 STA RK'S HIS TOR Y AND G UIDE 

equator, is much the same all the year ; the difference 
of temperature and the much more marked difference 
of sensation being mainly caused by the direction 
and force of the wind. During the dry season, the 
temperature in the neighborhood of Bridgetown and 
Hastings, being on the leeward side of the island, 
ranges from 80 ° to 82 ° in the shade during the 
middle of the day, while at night the thermometer 
shows from 73 ° to 76 ° . At the Crane and Bath- 
sheba and other places on the windward side of the 
island, the temperature is from three to five degrees 
lower. 

This equability of temperature, night and day 
through the long dry season, renders the climate 
very favorable for those suffering from pulmonary 
affections, and is no doubt in a great degree the 
cause of the almost perfect immunity Barbados enjoy 
from phthisis and other diseases of the respiratory 
organs. The climate of Barbados is remarkably 
beneficial to elderly people, who, suffering from no 
specific disease, but merely from that debility and 
general decrease of vital power which accompanies 
old age, have here in a marked degree recovered 
strength with mental and physical elasticity. The 
climate makes little or no demand upon their strength, 
it costs scarce any expense of vital power to keep up 
animal heat, and there is no risk of congestion of the 
lungs, of pleurisy or of bronchitis and similar 
diseases. Invalids desiring medical attendance while 
residing in Barbados will find many duly qualified 
practitioners, graduates of distinguished universities 
who have gained a reputation for skill in the art of 
healing : among whom may be mentioned Drs. Bowen 
and Gaskin. 

There is considerable more attention given to 
business in Barbados than is usually the case in 
tropical countries. The Barbadians are the Yankees 
of the West Indies ; they boast that there is no place 



TO BARBADOS AND THE C A RIB BEE ISLANDS. 113 

there for Jews or Portuguese, who are found on the 
other islands and on the mainland, occupying promi- 
nent positions in trade circles. This is literally 
correct, for the Jews who were here formerly in great 
numbers, are now almost unknown. There is not an 
unoccupied gentleman in the place ; it is not therefore 
surprising if amusements, like other things, being a 
matter of demand and supply, the leisured stranger 
will find this place dull in comparison with fashion- 
able summer resorts in England and the United 
States. With an influx of visitors whose chief 
occupation would be how to spend their time in the 
most agreeable manner, there is no doubt they would 
be quickly followed by those whose business it would 
be to cater for their amusement. 

The Savannah is the principal playground for the 
Barbadians ; it is a level field of over forty acres in 
extent, about the size of Boston Common, almost 
circular and surrounded by a belt of trees, among 
which the beautiful glossy " evergreen " predom- 
inates. All around, underneath the trees, runs a 
carriage road ; while outside again are the garrison 
buildings, barracks, officers quarters, offices, and 
other buildings standing in detached blocks. To the 
south lies the sea, while on the northeast the back- 
ground is formed by the green hill of High-Gate. 
The Savannah is not only the parade-ground of the 
troops, but the play-ground of the garrison, and for 
that matter of the island as well ; for it is here that 
the Barbados races are held, and a portion of the 
ground is occasionally used for their sports by a 
local athletic club, and here the garrison athletic 
meetings, pony-races and frequent "gymkhanas " or 
goat races come off. 

Here in the afternoon the visitor will find in 
full swing the games which had been laid aside for 
months before he left home. He will see in one corner 
of the great green parade ground, a cricket match 



114 S TA RK'S HIS TOR Y AND G UIDE 

being fought out between rival companies of a regi- 
ment or between a garrison or a civilian club ; at 
another part of the grounds he may find the officers 
"at home" to their friends, and the military band 
discoursing sweet music, while several lawn-tennis 
parties are enjoying themselves at a tennis-court. 
At another part of the grounds, some mounted 
officers are tilting at the ring or the tent-peg, or 
making the scene more gay with their variegated 
jackets while they pursue the flying ball at polo. 
Of course these various sports are open to all 
spectators, the immediate friends of the officers and 
of non-commissioned officers being accommodated in 
separate enclosures, and hospitality dispensed under 
the shade of marquees and tents. One of these 
garrison meetings form a sight well worth seeing 
by the visitor, with the fluttering pennons, the 
gaily colored dresses of the negroes, the picturesque 
uniform of the Zouave soldiers of the West India 
regiments, the red or white of the European infantry, 
and the parti-colored jackets of the jockeys. There is 
spirit of rollicking fun shining in the ebony faces of 
the negroes, and bursting into loud shouts of laughter 
at the slightest incident that seems comical ; while 
above the hum and cheers of the crowd swell the 
strains of the band the whole picture framed in by 
that belt of wonderful green. 

The introduction of lawn-tennis has proved a great 
boon to the residents here, and the game seems to have 
taken a permanent hold of the people. Courts have 
been laid down in all directions, and, those of the 
principal island club at Enmore, the lawns at Govern- 
ment House, the residence of the Governor, and 
Queen's House, the quarters of the general officer 
commanding in the West Indies, and those of some 
of the leading people of the island, are thrown open 
for weekly receptions, so that frequent opportunities 
are given for the meeting of people, young and old, 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 115 

of which full advantage seems to be taken. The 
arrival of the North American and West Indian fleet 
is eao-erly looked forward to. While the admiral 
remains, a period of from ten days to two weeks, 
generally during the months of January or February, 
a succession of balls, dinners, picnics, gymkhanas, 
regattas and sham fights takes place, with many 
entertainments on board the different vessels of the 
fleet At this season, also, the war-ships of foreign 
nations frequently visit the island ; so that it is not 
unusual to see the harbor crowded with ships flying 
the flags of many countries ; while the roads and 
streets of Bridgetown swarm with sailors and resound 
with unfamiliar accents of many different languages. 
As almost every foot of the country is under cul- 
tivation it is needless to say there is no hunting to 
be had, for with the exception of the monkeys in 
Turner's Hall woods, and they are exceedingly shy, 
there are no wild animals on the island ; nor is there 
any shooting worth the name, although some species 
of plover and snipe rest here for a few days 
on their migratory passage from America to some 
unknown land. While the "birds' stay everyone 
in Barbados who has a gun brings it out and there is 
quite an excitement about the " shooting ; _ but there 
are usually more gunners than there are birds. 

There are no streams of fresh water for fish to 
live in, there is no fishing with rod or me ; good 
fishing, however, can be had on the leeward of 
Bridgetown, where the sea deepens very slowly, so 
that at a considerable distance from shore the 
water will not be deeper than from forty or^sixty 
feet, with a white coral bottom so pell acid that the 
fish can be seen at a great depth issuing from their 
hiding places among the coral and luxuriant sea- 
mosses that surround the submerged coral reefs. 
The fisher seems to be looking down into a huge 
aquarium, and, as it were, admitted to see the home 



116 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

life of the finny inhabitants. The Barracouta and 
Kingfish will afford the most sport, as well as prove 
more palatable than most of the others ; the former 
may be caught of considerable size and weighing up 
to sixty pounds, while the latter is one of the most 
vigorous fish in the sea. 

If plenty of excitement is desired, it can be had by 
those who are proof against sea sickness, in catching 
sharks, which abound, especially in December and 
January, off the coasts of the island. On the wind- 
ward side, sharks of considerable size are often taken 
by fishing from the rocks ; but for those who are 
willing to rough it and are not afraid of the sea, the 
best plan is to hire a small schooner for a few days 
and to go to one of the recognized shark-grounds off 
the coast. The excitement of the struggle with a 
large shark is so great, (and the natural enmity be- 
tween the man and fish is at such a moment at its 
height,) when one sees the vengeful, glaring eye of 
the captured fish still struggling to be free, and hears 
the snap of those terrible jaws, he feels as if he were 
avenging the injuries of his race. There is no occasion 
that shows the savage instinct of man, covered by a thin 
veneer of civilization, plainer than when witnessing 
the fight to get a large and vigorous shark on 
board. The largest shark caught in Barbadian waters 
was taken alongside of a captured whale ; it measured 
twenty-five feet in length, and a man of 5ft. 6in. in 
height could walk through his gaping jaws. 

At Speightstown the whale fishery is still carried 
on, and much sport can be had in catching sharks 
when a whale is being stripped of his blubber. The 
workmen at such times are too busy to do more than 
make an occasional lunge with their cutting spades 
at any shark who is too greedy ; each party seems 
intent on his own business, that is to secure as 
much blubber as they can. 

It will not do to leave out all mention of whist 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CAR IB BEE ISLANDS. 117 

when describing the amusements and recreations of 
the Barbadians, at least of the middle-aged and 
elderly class, for at all private parties, and at the 
Bridgetown Club, whist is the popular card game, and 
from constant practice the gentlemen of the island 
acquire great skill thereat. 



118 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 



CHAPTER XI. 

SEASIDE RESORTS, "THE CRANE" AND 

"BATHSHEBA" RAMBLES IN THE 

SCOTLAND HILLS. 



A favorite watering-place of the islands, which all 
strangers should visit if only for a few days, is " The 
Crane ; " so called from a shipping place, which, with 
its customary hoisting apparatus, was once to be seen 
there, but which has long since disappeared, every 
vestige of commerce having vanished from this coast. 
Though not exposed to so violent a sea as that 
which thunders against the cliffs of St. Andrews 
and St. Lucy, yet the uncertainty of currents and 
the 'vicinity of the sunken reef of "The Cobblers" 
have placed this spot at a serious disadvantage for 
purposes of commerce, when compared with places on 
the leeward shore. 

The coast line for some miles near "The Crane " 
is rugged and black. Vast masses of rock have 
fallen from the cliffs, undermined by the erosive 
action of the sea. This is especially noticeable at a 
place a little to the south, where the cliff has been 
split off from the bottom to the top, a distance of 
eight to twelve feet, separating the bases of the 
rocks, while their summits are, in places, close 
together or in actual contact. This is a characteristic 
of the shores of all coral islands, especially of the 
Bahamas and Bermudas. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 119 



The " Crane " is situated in St. Philip's parish, 
distant about twelve miles from the Marine Hotel 
and about fourteen miles from Bridgetown. It is a 
very pleasant afternoon drive, or the visitor can go 
by rail to Sudbury station, distant four miles from 
the " Crane " where a conveyance will meet him from 
the hotel. There are some furnished houses in 
addition to the hotel along the cliff, which are occu- 




Three Natives. 
pied during the warm season by planters and their 
families, who come here to enjoy the fresh sea- 
breezes which constantly blow from the ocean. 

At a distance of about a mile from the Crane hotel, 
and within a hundred yards of the sea, stands a large 
house known as "Long Bay Castle," or as " Lord's 
Castle." The building is of a pretentious style, the 
rooms are large and lofty, and the tall mahogany 
pillars of the dining-room have a fine effect ; the walls 



120 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

are hung with fine mirrors, but the keen sea air 
acting for many years has dimmed them. 

The house is too large, and its situation too remote 
for the wants of most Barbadian families, therefore it 
has been unoccupied for years and is slowly going to 
decay. 

No one should leave Barbados without having 
paid a visit to Bathsheba, on the northeast or wind- 
ward side of the island, situated in the Scotland 
district in the parish of St. Joseph. It is distant 
seventeen miles from Bridgetown by railroad, and 
about twelve miles by carriage road. 

Bathsheba lies under Hackelton's Cliff, which 
rising to a height of from 800 to 1100 feet, runs, 
under different names, for several miles round the 
windward coast, affording many splendid views. - The 
coast line here is rugged ; and the rocks, worn by the 
tremendous surf, take fantastic shapes. The negroes 
here, extremely primitive in dress and manners, 
may be seen fishing from the ledges of the rocks 
in a nude state, presenting much the same appear- 
ance, and using implements almost as primitive as 
their ancestors did when they fished from the banks of 
the Niger or the Congo. Bathsheba is most easily 
reached by the railway, which, descending from the 
higher level by very steep gradients cut into the face 
of the cliff, gives the traveller, especially in the 
morning, some excellent views of the coast scenery 
of Consett's Bay. 

One can of course drive to Bathsheba from Bridge- 
town ; but the road from the summit of the heights 
is too steep for the comfort of either passengers or 
cattle ; and as the fares are extremely low on the 
railway, under a half-penny a mile for first-class return 
tickets, it is needless to say the latter route is 
generally preferred. As Bathsheba is situated " in 
the wind's eye " which there blows directly off the 
sea, it makes a marked difference in the temperature 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 121 

of that place and. those on the southern and western, 
or leeward coasts. Hastings lying but two miles 
from east of Bridgetown, but much exposed to the 
wind, is much cooler than the latter place ; and Bath- 
sheba is cooler than Hastings. Bathsheba is within 
easy distance, by riding, of the finest views in " Scot- 
land," as the hilly northern end of the island is 
called. The scenery in this part of the island will 
be found much more diversified than that towards 
the south, or near Bridgetown. It is possible to 
spend considerable time in the vicinity of the latter 
place, and then to leave Barbados under the impression 
that there is little or nothing in the way of good scen- 
ery to be seen. On entering the district of Scotland, 
however, it is as if one had suddenly been transferred 
to a different island. The coral formation has dis- 
appeared, the color of the soil is different, and there 
are many steep hills. 

Starting from Bathsheba, a very pleasant ride may 
be had by going up " Horse Hill," and so by the high 
road to Castle Grant. If one turns off by a track to 
the left which meets the road just beyond this place, 
he will soon find himself amidst some of the finest 
scenery in Barbados ; for his path crosses Welch- 
man's Hall Gulley, which he can from this place- 
enter easily, and leads him close to the celebrated 
Porey Spring. 

Having passed Lammings, the bridle-path cut in 
the side of the coral cliff just where that formation 
ceases, will lead him under immense rocks, which, in 
many places overhang the rugged path, the ground 
descending almost perpendicularly to the bottom of 
the deep and fertile valley that lies between Mount 
Hilliby range and the one which is continued by 
Bissex Hill and which terminates in the sea by the 
precipitious oceanic formation. The valley viewed 
from this path is very lovely. Near at hand, and 



122 



STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 



immediately below the spectator's, feet, the land- 
scape is thickly studded with fruit trees. The 
bread-fruit tree, and those bearing the bread-nut, 
lemon, orange, sapadilla, golden-apple, custard-apple 
and sugar-apple, overshadow the little huts that dot 
the steep slopes, and perch upon every jutting rock, 
by their variously tinted foliage, and many colored 
fruit, diversifying the prevailing greenness ; the fruit, 
however, will prove to be like the gorgeously tinted 
tropical fish, very beautiful to the eye but lacking in 
taste. The steep sides of the hill is unfit for the 




Roadside Scene. 

growth of the sugar cane, and on this account it 
happens that it is occupied as "spots," by many of 
the negroes and " Redlegs," who often own the land, 
and grow on their tiny patches arrowroot and fruit, 
to the great improvement of the landscape. The 
" Redlegs " are poor whites, the descendants of the 
" Wild Irishry " who were sent here and sold as slaves 
by Cromwell. This opprobrious name was given by 
the Ulster settlers to the kilted natives of the coun- 
try, and still sticks to their descendants, although it 
has lost its meaning, and no Barbadian knows why 
he calls another or is styled himself a " Redleg." 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 123 

These poor white people are more numerous in the 
parishes of St. Philip, St. Joseph and St. Andrew 
than in any other. They are very similiar in their 
appearance and manner of living to the " Crackers " 
found in the Southern States, and can be traced back 
to the same origin. 

The rich' cane-producing valley, lies between its 
defending hills, stretching away for miles, and ter- 
minated by a strip of glistening sand, beyond which 
is a fringe of dazzling foam, and the indescribable 
blue of the ocean. To the stranger, who has been 
previously acquainted with the tame scenery in the 
vicinity of Bridgetown, the first sight of this valley 
will be a revelation. 

On proceeding further, the visitor finds the bridle- 
path strike the road again, by following which he 
will pass " Cane Field " with its glowing hibiscus 
bloom, and still further on will descend into a deep 
and narrow glen with precipitious, but wooded 
sides ; crossing by a rude bridge, a little stream 
that rushes at the bottom in many a miniature cas- 
cade, he will find a path towards the right which leads 
to the foot of a conical hill, Mount Misery, from 
the summit of which the sea surrounding the island 
can be seen, except at one point, where the Peak 
of Hillaby shuts it from view. 

From Cane Field it is but a few minutes ride to 
Porey's Spring; but as that place can be easily 
reached from town, and the ground already covered 
is quite enough for one day's work, it is better to 
return to Bathsheba by the road past Maynard's, 
which runs through a picturesque part of the country. 
Then, taking the way towards Bissex Hill and 
descending on the southeastern side by a steep road- 
way, the tourist can regain the hotel at Bathsheba 
by way of Frazers, Nullows and Joe's River. 

Within fifteen minutes walk of Bathsheba, by the way 
lying along the sea shore towards the northwest, lies the 



124 



STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 



oil district, where petroleum is still obtained, although 
the supply falls short of what it was when the wells 
were first sunk. These oil wells are situated in a 
bare and desolate-looking gorge of the Chalky Mount 
Hills, close to the railway and the sea shore. 

Above the wells, and occupying many of the sum- 
mits and ravines of the hills between Chalky Mount 
and Bissex Hill, are the potteries of Barbados, carried 
on in the most primative manner. Every man mixes 
his own clay, has his own rude wheel, generally 
turned by some member of his family in his little 
hut, and finally his own furnace. The ware produced 




Carrying Pottery to Bridgetown. 

is coarse, but the very coarseness of the ware forms, 
as it is used in Barbados, its greatest merit. It is 
very porous, and the vessels permit a very rapid 
evaporation of water, especially when placed in the 
wind, thus keeping the contents at a temperature 
much lower than that of the surrounding air. 

For this reason, although the ware is sold at a 
small price, it is highly valued ; and no Barbadian 
house, from the Governor's residence down to the 



TO BARBADOS AND THE C 'A RIB BEE ISLANDS. 125 

poorest hut, is considered furnished without its 
assortment of "juglets," and "monkeys," so 
called according to their shape, and the absence 
or presence of a handle or spout. The part taken by 
the woman of the family is that of distribution ; and 
it is wonderful to see how they will descend the 
steep hills, with enormous loads of ware stacked on 
large trays upon their heads. These huge burdens 
they will carry upon trays fifteen miles to Bridgetown, 
remaining in the town and its vicinity till they have 
sold off their stock, a process they can only effect by 
walking many miles from house to house. The pot- 
ters are a cheerful, independent set of people, and 
not inclined to work or worry more than they need. 
When watching the dark-skinned and half naked 
potter at his primitive wheel in Barbados, it seems 
strange to think that from such humble origin sprang 
the art to which the highest skill, immense capital 
and well organized labor, are at the present time 
being devoted at Sevres, Meissen and Worcester. 

To reach the potteries from Bathsheba it is advis- 
able to procure a pony or mule, as there will be some 
pretty difficult climbing to do, as well as considerable 
distances to travel. 

It is also in this district, on patches among the 
hills, too small and with soil too poor for the success- 
ful cultivation of sugar cane which requires a deep 
and fertile earth, that the arrowroot is grown and 
manufactured. It is prepared in as primitive a man- 
ner as pottery is. The proprietor or tenant of an 
arrowroot patch usually owns a peculiar little .wind- 
mill, almost a toy in size, usually half in ruins, the 
worn sails patched with garments which being no 
longer of any avail for " raising the wind " are utilized 
for catching it. In these mills the cleansed roots are 
ground, the juice being allowed to settle, and the 
surface liquid is then poured off. The deposit of fine 
powder is then washed with water, and again allowed 



126 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

to settle. This process is repeated according to 
the degree of purity required in the manufactured 
article, and the powder or starch finally resulting is 
spread on boards to dry. The manufacture of the 
article is not of sufficient quantity to supply any for 
exportation. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 127 



CHAPTER XII. 

CAVES AND RAVINES. 



Caves abound in all coral or limestone formations, 
and Barbados is not an exception to this rule ; the 
island contains many large caves, hollowed out of 
the coral rocks by the dissolving and denuding 
influence of running streams of fresh water, or by 
the action of the sea. This process is more rapid on 
coral islands than it is where the rock belongs to an 
older limestone formation. The entrance to the 
caves are usually small crevices in the rock, often 
masked by vegetation, such as is seen at Cole's Cave, 
situated in the bottom of a romantic ravine in St. 
Thomas' Parish. 

After passing for some yards through the narrow 
entrance to this cave, it becomes more broad and 
lofty ; the floor, too, here is dry and remains so till 
"the fork" is reached, where the cave divides into 
two parts, at a distance of some three hundred yards 
from the entrance. The shorter and less interesting 
branch remains dry, but a great part of the floor of 
the great cave is occupied by a stream of clear water, 
which, issuing out of the rock, follows the course of 
the cave as far as it can be explored. This stream is 
one of the principal sources of the water supply of 
the Bridgetown Waterworks Company. 

No outlet to it has been discovered ; it probably is 
submarine, and comes up at Freshwater Bay, distant 
about five miles from the cave. All along the shore 



128 STARR'S HITORY AND GUIDE 

of this bay, the bather can feel the sand being pushed 
up under his feet, and trace in the clear water the 
ascending jets of fresh water, which are sufficient in 
amount to make a perceptible difference in the saline 
matter held in solution by the waters of the bay as 
compared with that of the surrounding sea, the 
waters of the bay being about half fresh. There is 
a tradition that: a duck was marked and put in the 
stream and was carried away by the current, and 
some days after it was recovered near Freshwater 
Bay, very much exhausted and nearly stripped of its 
feathers, probably by coming in contact with project- 
ing rocks, and passing through fissures in coming to 
the surface. 

The largest cave can be reached by following the 
course of the stream, along a path made above the 
water pipes. The roof and sides of the cave were at 
one time covered with stalactites, many of them of 
great size, but those near the entrance, and generally 
in the more accessible parts, have been broken off 
and carried away by persons desirous of adorning 
their gardens with "rockeries." The roof of this 
cave also presents a most remarkable appearence, in 
consequence of being studded with numerous cavities 
or pits of a rounded form, resembling inverted 
saucers or calabashes, from a few inches to twenty 
inches in diameter, and from half an inch to six 
inches in depth. No satisfactory reason has been 
assigned yet as to the origin of these cavities. If 
they occurred on the floor of the cave, they could be 
easily explained as caused by eddies in the stream, 
which by sweeping round pieces of harder stones or 
pebbles could, by constant attrition in the course of 
time, have hollowed out these holes ; but there are no 
pits in the floor of the cave, they are all in the roof, 
and the presence of stalactites in the cavern is proof 
that the cavern was aerial when they were formed. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 120 



At a short distance from where the stream issues, 
the cavern becomes more spacious, and a basin is 
formed which has received the name of the Bath. 
From here it gradually lessens in height and finally 
becomes so low as to render it necessary for the 
visitor to stoop and follow the course of the stream 
by crawling along, until it is not possible to follow the 
cave for a greater distance. By burning a piece of 
magnesium wire the cavern can be brilliantly 
illuminated, producing some very fine effects. ■ 

No one can drive into the country in Barbados 




Repairing the Road. 

without noticing the many deep and steep-sided 
ravines, here called gullies, which sometimes run 
for a distance of several miles intersecting the cane 
fields. The existence of these gullies have been 
attributed by some geologists, to the denudating effects 
of currents, as the island became gradually and slowly 
elevated above the sea; others believe that they 
were caused by an earthquake which raised at 
least the higher part of the island with sudden 
violence above the level of the ocean, lacerating the 



130 STA RR~'S HIS TOR Y A ND G UIDE 

ground in the same way as has occurred in modern 
times in volcanic countries. Probably both of these 
causes have resulted in forming the gullies. But, 
however these ravines may have been formed, they 
have given to visitors to Barbados, about the only 
opportunity of seeing wild tropical vegetation. Those 
in which Cole's Cave and Porey Spring are situated, 
with those known respectively as Russia and Welsh- 
man's Hall gullies, are the principal ones on the 
island ; they are all situated in St. Thomas' Parish 
and are favorite resorts for picnic parties. 

The gully in which Cole's Cave is situated, is well 
worth visiting, as at the bottom of this romantic ravine 
is the noblest specimen of the silk-cotton tree on the 
island. This tree towers far above the other foliage of 
the ravine, and with its enormous buttress-like roots, 
supporting many climbing plants and orchids, forms 
a remarkable object. A species of wood-ant has 
colonized it, and with infinite labor the insects have 
conveyed a mass of many hundred weight of earth 
and debris to one of the great forks of the tree. 

Cole's cave and ravine are six and a half miles from 
Bridgetown : the excellent carriage road leading to it 
runs through several of the largest sugar estates 
on the island, and the view from the top of some of the 
hills over which it passes is very fine. 

Welshman's Hall gully is in the same vicinity, one 
mile distant in a direct line, and about three miles 
by road, by way of the Bloomsbury estate. It can 
be reached from Bridgetown by the road passing the 
Asylum, Cane Garden, and Holy Innocents' Chapel, 
and visitors should not omit visiting this ravine. On 
reaching the edge of it, the tourist, leaving his carriage, 
descends by an easy path running along the side of 
a little forest of the glossy leaved and aromatic bay 
tree, soon finds himself at the bottom, under the 
welcome shade of a grove of nutmeg and cacao trees, 
the former of which he will probably see laden with 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 131 



fruit. Some forty years ago, the then owner of 
Welshman's Hall cleared this portion of the gully 
and planted it with fruit and spice-bearing trees, but 
the "spice grove " thus made has long since been 
allowed to run wild again, and were it not for the 
unusual profusion of fruits, oranges, lemons, nutmegs, 
cinnamon and many other rare trees, no one would 
suspect that a hoe had been struck into the soil. 
Turning to the right from the Nutmeg Grove and 




Going to Market. 

proceeding down the ravine to the southward, many 
stalactites are seen, especially on the cliffs to the 
left, and attention will be drawn especially to one of 
enormous dimensions forming a massive pillar in 
support of the rock, which here overhangs considerably. 
It makes a cave of some depth, from which some 
exquisite glimpses of the ravine may be had through 
the spaces between the stalactites. The great pillar, 
stalactite and stalagmite having met, will be found 



132 



STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 



to have a diameter of from four to five feet, and is 
thus among the largest in the world. Passing on 
from this, a path is found in this side of the cliff 
overhung by the arched rock all the way, while from 
the roof great masses of limestone, like huge sugar- 
loaves, are hanging. 

The bottom of the 
glen is here strewn with 
masses of rock, every 
crevice of which contains its 
fern, while considerable many 
trees will be seen growing out 
of the solid stone. The cliff 
on the opposite, or right 
hand side as one goes down 
the ravine, is high and steep, 
indeed perpendicular, and fes- 
tooned to the ground with 
the tendrils and leaves mat- 
ted into a web of lianas and 
other creepers. From point 
to point one is tempted on till 
a roadway crosses the ravine 
on a bridge, beyond which 
there is little to be seen, 
unless one cares to examine 
some shallow caves which in 
times gone by had their en- 
trances hung with doors and were used as store- 
houses 

On retracing his steps to the grove and then pro- 
ceeding up the ravine towards the north, he will see 
a remarkable specimen of the silk-cotton tree, grow- 
ing on a ledge of the cliff on what is now the right 
hand side. The tree is not nearly as large as that 
growing in the neighboring glen of Cole's Cave, but 
the huge roots are twisted in corkscrew shape ; it seems 
as if they were moulded regularly on the wreathed 




A Negro Beauty. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE C A RIB BEE ISLANDS. 133 

curves, while overhead high among the branches, is 
a network of orchids, which threaten at no distant 
day to destroy the tree as the wood ants will its 
huger brother. Passing by the silk-cotton tree and 
an artificial pond covered with aquatic plants, 
the visitor finds the side of the glen receding 
further from one another, and the wood disappearing, 
the sugar cane again taking its place. He has 
now arrived at the summit of the water-shed, 
and by walking a hundred yards further over level 
ground, still between the now far separated and 
gradually lessening cliffs, he will come to a narrow 
roadway or path from which he can have a glorious 
prospect over the famous Scotland Valley ; and if he 
climbs a steep conical peak of coral on his left, will 
have Hillaby, Fareley Hill, the St. Lucy Coast, Belle 
Plaine, Chalky Mount and Bissex Hill spread out 
before him. 

Returning by the road leading by Holy Innocents' 
Chapel, at a distance of about three miles from 
Welshman's Hall, the visitor will come to a fork in 
the road, at the junction of which is Sharon Chapel, 
the old Moravian Missionary station. Turning to the 
right up this road, the visitor will pass over a range 
of hills from which some exquisite views can be 
obtained, especially in the vicinity of " Grand View " 
estate. Following this road for a distance of about 
three miles, the visitor will come to Porey's Spring 
and Gully, which, in a direct line, is about only one 
mile distant from Welchman's Hall. The upper part 
of the ravine is full of fruit trees, orange, lemon and 
guava predominating. At some spots the view is 
very pretty. As for the spring it was some years 
ago improved out of sight. A former proprietor, 
having given the spring to the public, the parochial 
authorities confined the leaping cascade within walls 
and tanks, in order that the people living in the 
vicinity could obtain a pure water supply. 



134 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

A large bath has been provided, with a constant 
stream of fresh water, which is open and free to the 
public. 

A drive of half a mile on from Porey's Spring, up 
a beautifully situated road overhung in many places 
with fruit trees, gay with rainbow tints, will bring 
the visitor to Dunscombe, a deeper and better 
wooded ravine than the one just passed through. 
Continuing along the same road, passing by "Hill- 
aby," Turner's Hall Woods in St. Andrew's Parish 
will be reached, distant about three miles from 
Dunscombe. These woods are visited by most 
travellers who come to Barbados ; they clothe a spur 
of the Scotland Hills, and are a bit of real tropical 
forest — the only remnant of the woods which once 
covered the whole island. The wonder is how they have 
survived till now ; for where land sells at the enormous 
price that it brings here, and at a spot where no 
manor house pleads in favor of the prospect from the 
windows, the incentives towards deforesting must be 
powerful. However, the woods stand to this day ; let 
us hope that for many a year they may hold their 
ground against that terrible foe to the wild and free 
beauties of nature, the sugar cane. 

These woods also contain the only wild monkeys 
on the island, although when the first settlers came 
here they were so abundant that a price was set upon 
their heads. The raccoon is now equally scarce, 
and was also included in the legislative enactment 
for extirpation ; these two animals, together with 
perhaps an indigenous mouse, are all that were found 
on the island when first discovered. 

The trees in this wood consist almost entirely of 
Locust, Cedar, Fustic and Bully trees ; and on several 
occasions, when timber was required, trees of more 
than a hundred feet in height have been felled in 
this wood. Several trees and shrubs have been found 
growing which were formerly considered to belong 
singly to Guiana and Trinidad. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 135 

The Boiling Spring, as it is called, is on the side 
of a water-course in these woods, and is considered 
one of the great natural curiosities of Barbados. The 
spring does not boil in the literal sense, it is not even 
warm, but the natural gas (carburetted hydrogen) 
that escapes through the soil at the bottom of the 
cup-shaped depression, bubbles up through the 
water, which then seems to boil. After a heavy rain, 
when the underground reservoirs are full of water, 
and the gas is thus under greater pressure than 
usual, a considerable quantity escapes ; and on appli- 
cation of a lighted match at such times to the surface 
of the pool, it takes fire and burns all over the 
" spring" with a feeble, flickering flame, which yet 
gives out great heat. In dry weather, the gas escapes 
in much smaller volumes, and must be collected in a 
kind of inverted funnel, at the top of which it burns 
freely, and is thus used to boil the tourist's tea-kettle 
or to cook eggs. 

It is a long, but pleasant drive to the woods from 
Bridgetown, but as it is only three miles from Belle 
Plain railway station, a good pedestrian can walk 
there and back in an afternoon, or visitors who are 
staying at Bathsheba can arrange to be driven over 
from there at a moderate cost. 

At " North Point," the northern extremity of the 
island, in the parish of St. Lucy, is one of the most 
remarkable caverns on the island, The " Animal 
Flower Cave " has gained a wide reputation, not 
so much for the size of the cavern, though that is 
considerable, as on account of its beautiful inhabi- 
tants, a species of zoophyte. All along the eastern 
shore of this district the shore is precipitous, the 
cliffs descending at many places sheer into deep 
water. They are fully exposed to the prevailing 
northeast trade-winds, and to the force of the 
mighty billows which, gathering speed and power as 
they sweep from mid-ocean, hurl themselves against 



136 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

these rocky ramparts which are worn into deep 
caverns of which the Animal Flower Cave is one. 

For a stranger in the island to visit this cave is a 
serious undertaking, for, in the first place, the situa- 
tion is remote and with difficulty reached from either 
Bathsheba or Bridgetown ; and in the second place, 
it is almost impossible for even a young and active 
man to gain the entrance in safety, except during 
comparatively calm weather such as seldom occur 
from November to May. 

There is probably no coast in the world from 
which a better idea of the power and graudeur of the 
sea can be formed than this. The huge billows come 
in with a noise like thunder, and rise almost to the 
edge of the cliff, and are often said to " lip over" 
when a strong breeze is blowing, and then retreating, 
leave behind them a series of cascades of foam which 
have scarcely ceased to descend before the next 
wave dashes in. To one standing on the summit 
of the cliff they seem irresistible, and as if the 
island itself were but floating and dancing upon 
them. In some instances, the caves are connected 
with the surface by narrow, perpendicular passages ; 
and when the breeze is strong, the sea dashing itself 
against the cliffs and filling the caverns, rushes 
through these "spouts " with a hiss and a roar, fol- 
lowed on the retreat of the water by a loud rushing 
of air to take its place. It is said that when a- strong 
wind is blowing, the main "spout" throws up a 
column of water to a height of forty feet, which can 
be seen for several miles. 

The entrance to the " Animal Flower Cave " is in 
the face of a steep cliff forty feet high, under an 
overhanging rock resembling a porch. It is reached 
by crossing a ridge of rocks called from its shape the 
Saddle, which crossing must be made during the in- 
tervals between the retreat of one wave and the 
advance of the next. If one is caught by an incoming 



TO BARBADOS AND THE C A RIB BEE ISLANDS. 137 

billow, it is all over with him.; but in calm weather 
there is not the slightest danger, and if the sea is 
moderate, sufficient time is given between the waves 
to cross easily. When the inside of the cave is 
gained, the floor is found to slope upwards, and there 
is no further danger. 

Passing on from the first and larger cave, (for the 
cavern consists really of several, opening on the sea, 
and connected with each other by passages of greater 
or less width,) the visitor arrives at the " Carpet 
Room," named from the beautiful mosaic of marine 
algae with which the bottom is covered. In the 
midst there is an almost circular basin, containing a 
large stone covered by water of wonderful trans- 
parency and clearness. The basin is filled by water 
thrown in by the waves, but it is hard to imagine 
that those mighty masses of water which you saw a 
moment before, thundering against the cliff, could 
have been so tamed as to pour in such a gentle stream ; 
it is as if the genius of the grotto had subdued their 
violence, and they seem to kiss his feet. 

To stand outside and see the outer entrance, fill- 
ing it completely up, and producing semi-darkness 
inside, one would think that the caverns would be 
filled, and all who were within them drowned ; but a 
sense of security soon comes, and the visitor is at 
liberty to look round and examine the grotto at his 
ease. 

The flowers, most of them of a pale yellow, resem- 
bles single marigolds having many petals. There are 
two other species, one with blue and the other with 
brown flowers, which are occasionally found along 
the reefs, but they do not have the brilliant coloring 
of the inhabitants of the cave. Those outside, in the 
constantly moving sea, do not need such attractions, 
for the apparent petals of the flowers are the arms or 
feelers of the animal, which suddenly contracts upon 
and enclose those particles which come within its 



138 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

reach, and are suitable for the creature's food ; on the 
open coral reef, every eddy and current sweeps into 
these open arms of the animal, its prey ; but in the 
stillness of the grotto there are no currents, and the 
actinia, chained to its rock and left without a food 
supply, would starve and perish. Here is a won- 
derful instance of the adaptability of living things 
to a new environment, the actinia sets a trap, it can- 
not pursue its prey, there are no currents to bring it 
food, its food then must come of itself ; and so the 
homely, graceless feelers become like the petals of a 
lovely flower, glowing with brilliant colors, a cruel 
trap for the creatures that thought only of sweetness 
and light. 

As soon as the hand approaches to pluck this 
wonderful flower, the petal-like organs retract them- 
selves, and the stem or tube vanishes into the crevice 
of the rock whence it issued, reappearing again 
soon after the hand is withdrawn and the water left 
undisturbed. 

The roof of the cavern is hung with stalactites, 
from which clear fresh water continually drops into 
the pools of salt water below. 

A visit to this cave is truly a sublime spectacle ; 
the long Atlantic roll approaches the headland in 
great unbroken masses, until it comes in contact 
with the cliffs, when it dashes against them with a 
deafening noise, filling the opening of the cave with 
a watery curtain, the effect of which is peculiar and 
grand. At the commencement when the masses of 
water are thick and compact, almost total darkness 
prevails ; then follows suddenly a brownish hue, which 
changes into a yellow glare, until the wave has re- 
treated, and a bright light breaks through the open- 
ing, again to be darkened by the next incoming 
wave. 

A little to the north of "The Crane" hotel, at a 
spot known locally as Dawlish, is another curious, 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 139 

natural phenomenon. A cave, to which the sea is 
admitted by an opening at the bottom of the outward 
rock, and which is reached by a series of steps cut 
into or built into the rock, forms a sheltered bath of 
sea water ; while, on ascending the stairs and looking 
over a huge stone, another cave will be seen lying 
close beside the former. 

The sea is not admitted into the latter, at least to 
any extent, but a copious spring of fresh water rises 
in it, thus forming a fresh water bath, side by side 
with that of salt water. The water is here so clear 
that the sand below seems not to be covered by the 
fluid element, and many a visitor coming here for the 
first time, supposing it to be a spot of dry sand, has 
walked directly into water, much to his astonishment. 



140 S TA RK y S HIS TOR Y AND G UIDE 



CHAPTER XIII. 

OISTIN'S DAY, CHRIST CHURCH, REMARKABLE 
OCCURRENCE. 



Christ Church, is next to St. Philip's, the largest 
parish in Barbados. It forms the southern point of 
the island, and possesses less fertility than the other 
parishes. The Ridge, a hilly elevation, traverses it 
from east to west, and rises terrace-like from the 
southern point to a height of 405 feet at the hill hear 
Adam's Castle. These terraces were formerly coral 
reefs, and they present one of the most interesting 
instances, illustrative of the theory of a gradual 
elevation, with intervening periods of rest and de- 
nudation, in the geological history of the island. 
The road leading from Hastings to. the eastward, 
follows the shore, and is exceedingly picturesque. 
About five miles from the Marine Hotel, Oistin's 
Bay will be reached, the shore of which is com- 
posed of a beautiful white coral sand. In the early 
days of the colony, a man named Oistin settled here, 
from whom the bay received its name. Ligon does 
not speak in very flattering terms of the character 
of this man, whom he calls profligate ; nevertheless, 
as the population increased, a number of houses were 
erected on the bay which received the name of 
Oistin's Town. It must have been a much larger 
place at the commencement of the last century, than 
at present. Oldmixon describes it as consisting of 




TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 141 

one long street, with a lane in the middle ; it formed 
at that period the market town of one of the five 
precincts of the island, and a monthly session of court 
was held in it. In 1828 the sessions were transferred 
to the town-hall in Bridgetown. Only a few houses, 
occupied mostly by fisherman, are now left standing 
at Oistin's, and these few present a picture of decay. 

On an eminence 
above Oistin's stands 
"Christ Church;" 
the original struct- 
ure being entirely 
destroyed by the 
great hurricane of 
183 1, the present building was built in 1835 from 
plans furnished by Captain Senhouse, R. N. 

A strange occurence took place in the adjacent 
churchyard, which has never been satisfactorily 
accounted for. The following account, and illustra- 
tion describing it, is from a pamphlet published in 
England some years ago.* " Christ Church, and the 
adjacent burying ground, stands upon a shelve of 
coral which rises to an eminence of one hundred feet 
above the level of the sea over Oistin's Town. This 
church was one of the eleven founded over two cen- 
turies ago, at which time various members of the 
district erected family vaults in the burying grounds 
appropriated to each, church. From the nature of 
the foundation, these tombs were of necessity formed 
partially above and below the surface. 

The above cut is made from a sketch taken of the 
vault belonging to the family of the Hon. Colonel 
Chase, and of which this extraordinary incident is 
related. It was constructed of masonry, composed 
of the sawn coral stone of the island and fastened 
together with cement, which in the course of a few 



*Death Deeds, C. J. Skeet, Publisher, London, i860. 



142 S TA RK'S HIS TOR Y AND G UIDE 

years, became hardened as stone itself ; it is twelve 
feet long and six and a half feet wide, and is hewn 
partially through a flinty limestone rock ; the en- 
trance to it was secured by a massive stone which 
required six or seven men to move. The doorway 
was in the end ; the masonry projecting at the base 
and gradually decreasing towards the top, forming 
an inclined plane against which rested a large slab 
of solid stone forming a door, which was fastened 
round with cement to prevent its removal except 
when needed for interring in the vault, when it be- 
came necessary to break the cement before sliding 
aside this stone door. Immediately inside the door 
two or more steps descended to the flooring. 

Upon an occasion of interment in this vault, 
August 9th 1812, those engaged in opening it to re- 
ceive the body were astonished to find that two of the 
coffins were removed from their places ; one large 
leaden one was upon the ground, while that of an 
infant was thrown from its place on one side of the 
opposite corner. 

The black artisans were alarmed and hastened to 
the church officials to relate this singular circum- 
stance ; but no credence was given to their story, and 
it was imagined that, actuated by an inkling for mis- 
chief, these laborers had, upon the last occasion of 
interment, in order to create a sensation, entered the 
vault before closing the door, disturbed the coffins, 
and left them in this disorder. 

In vain were their protestations of innocence ; and 
even the known horror which all negroes attach to 
death and burial places was not accepted as a con- 
sideration in favour of their assertions. They were 
accordingly severely reprimanded, and the church 
officials determining to keep strict watch over this 
particular vault for the future, endeavoured to pre- 
vent the knowledge of what had transpired from cir- 
culating beyond those immediately concerned, lest 



TO BARBADOS AND THE C A RIB BEE ISLANDS. 143 

they should be censured for neglect. They con- 
sequently acted with the greatest caution at the 
closing of the door after the burial had taken place ; 
having previously seen the coffins re-arranged and 
the vault restored to its wonted order, they further 
satisfied themselves that there was no possibility of 
ingress by any other than the legitimate means. 

Time wore on, four years and two months had 
elapsed when death again visited the family, and the 
vault was destined to receive another inmate, a tiny 
coffin and its baby tenant. The officials eagerly 
repaired to the spot ; external examination proved 
that it had not been disturbed since last closed ; all 
appeared exactly as when they left it, the cement 
round the door was solid as the stone it secured, no 
crack in any of the walls warranted the idea of 
violence, and yet when the order was given and the 
door removed, the vault displayed even greater con- 
fusion than on the previous occasion. 

This was too serious to be longer overlooked, and 
the family must be apprised of the occurence both 
on this and the previous occasion, while the perpre- 
trators of the deep-laid trick must be discovered if 
possible, and punished ; but after examining the 
vault and questioning the masons very closely, the 
family were disposed to treat the matter lightly : 
consequently the vault was re-arranged, and closed 
after the body of the infant had been deposited. 

Scarcely two months elapsed before the remains 
of a relative were removed from another parish to be 
deposited in this vault, it was opened, and again a 
mysterious confusion prevailed. The coffins were 
replaced and the vault again closed. 

Two years and eight months passed away and death 
calling for another consignment to this tomb, the door 
was removed and the interior for a third time dfs- 
played a strange disarrangement of the coffins. It 
was now regarded more seriously than hitherto ; the 



144 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

account of the mystery spread so rapidly, that not 
only all the inhabitants of Bridge Town, but of the 
whole island were interested. Thousands visited the 
spot, curiosity was at its height, and the news having 
reached Government House, His Excellency the 
Governor, Lord Combermere, stated his inclination 
to be present at the approaching interment. 

Accordingly, attended by his aide-de-camp and 
staff, Lord Combermere visited the vault ; in his 
presence every part of the floor was sounded to ascer- 
tain that no subterranean passage or entrance was 
concealed, it was found to be perfectly firm and solid, 
no crack even was betrayed. The walls were next 
examined ; they were proved to be thoroughly secure, 
no fracture was visible, and the three sides together 
with the roof and flooring presented a structure 
as solid as if formed of entire slabs of stone. The 
displaced coffins were re-arranged, the new tenant of 
that dreary abode appropriated its place, and when the 
mourners had retired with the funeral procession, the 
floor was carefully sanded with fine white sand, in 
the presence of Lord Combermere and the assembled 
crowd, and the door was slid into its wonted position. 
With the utmost care the new cement was laid on to 
secure the door ; and when the masons had completed 
their task, the Governor made several impressions 
in the cement with his own seal, and many of those 
attending him added various private marks. 

Satisfied now that no one could gain access to the 
vault without betraying his mode of ingress, the 
people departed ; but the interest in the occurrence 
continued, and furnished a constant topic of conver- 
sation. The highest curiosity was expressed as to 
the result, and numerous conjectures arose regarding 
the cause, some suggested volcanic power, others a 
superstitious belief in superhuman agency, while 
many still continued to attribute the mischief to the 
cunning of the negroes — the impracticability of the 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 145 



thing being scarcely taken into consideration. 

So great a stir did the occurrence make in the 
island, and so many expressed impatience to test 
the possibility of trickery by the re-opening of the 
tomb, that Lord Combermere, who participated in 
this general curiosity, sent a request to the family to 
have it examined ; permission was of course accorded, 
and the opening fixed for the 18th April, 1820, just 

nine months and eleven 
days from the period of 
its closing. 

Barbados has seldom 
witnessed such a gather- 
ing as Christ Church 
district that day pre- 
sented. The towns were 
deserted, and thousands 
hastened to the scene — 
every spot, every avenue, 
Plate No. i. every foot of ground was 

covered in and around the churchyard. 

The scorching rays of sun blazed forth in tropical 
splendour upon that sea of living forms — natives, Eu- 
ropeans, negroes, crowded together in their various 
attires and scarcely less varied complexions, upon the 
brow of a hill, with the massive stone tombs rising 
every here and there amongst them. The old church 
standing forth in sombre relief, as if a connecting 
link between the living and the dead, made the 
scene altogether one which beggared description, 
while, perhaps, its peculiar interest was in the death- 
like silence of mute anxiety and superstitious awe. 

Lord Combermere now arrived, and if his own 
interest in the mystery could have failed to induce 
him to seek the re-opening of the vault, the assem- 
bled masses gave ample testimony of the universal 
gratification his request had given. 

He at once proceeded to examine the structure. 




146 



STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 



All was secure, and appeared exactly as it had done 
when he left it after being closed, the cement was 
unbroken, and the large impressions of the governor's 
seal were as sharp and perfect as when made, but 
now hardened into stone. Each person present who 
had before made private marks, satisfied himself 
that they were untouched and unaltered ; and the 
command having been given, the masons proceeded 
to break the cement and slide off the door. The 

cement yielded as usual 
to their instruments, but 
when they endeavoured to 
remove the stone it re- 
sisted with unwonted 
weight ; increased force 
was applied, but still it 
remained immovable. For 
a moment all hands were 
stilled, and a look of won- 
dering dismay passed from 
each to each, but it was 
only for a moment — the 
Plate No. ii. next, excitement lent a 

powerful energy, and the stone yielded an aperture of 
half an inch, enough to afford a peep-hole ; yet nothing 
was visible in the darkness of its buried night, save 
where its tiny ray of light entered through the narrow 
crevice and seemed to cut across some black object 
close to the portal, so near, that its own thread-like 
ray lay brightly visible, prevented by this massive 
black something from dispersing itself into the reign- 
ing darkness within. 

Awe a second time paralyzed the energy of those 
engaged. Suspense deepened the intensity of in- 
terest and lent a dreadness to the terror of that mass 
of anxious spectators. A hush, as when nature sleeps 
under the pall of midnight, sealed every breath, lest 
they fail to catch the first whisper of those near the 




TO BARBADOS AND THE C A RIB BEE ISLANDS. 147 

tomb that might offer a solution of the problem 
before them. 

Increased force was lent to move the stone, and 
inch by inch it yielded till it was slid sufficiently 
aside to admit of a person's entering, and then it was 
discovered that the huge leaden coffin, marked 3 in 
Plate I, was standing upon its head with its feet rest- 
ing against the middle of the stone door, as shown in 
Plate II. This coffin, which it required seven or 
eight men to move, was removed from its central 
place (see Plate I) and placed in this remarkable 
position, yet the sand on the floor bore no trace of 
footprint or of having been in any way disturbed. 
The coffin of an infant (No. 6 Plate I) had been 
hurled with such force against the opposite wall near 
which it was lying, that the corner had left a deep 
indentation in the stone work. 

Lord Combermere directed one of the gentlemen 
of his staff to make an accurate drawing of the posi- 
tion of the coffins ; a copy of which he forwarded to 
the Colonial Office with his despatch relative to the 
occurrence ; from which the above illustrations were 
made. 

The family immediately ordered the coffins to be 
removed and buried in separate graves. After which 
the vault was abandoned, in which state it still 
remains." 

As to the authenticity of the foregoing statements 
there can be no doubt, for it is attested to by Lord 
Combermere and Thomas Harrison Orderson, Rector 
of Christ Church at that time, and is mentioned by 
Schomburgk and many others who remembered the 
circumstance. 



148 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 



CHAPTER XIV. 

HA CUTE L TONS CLIFF, ST. JOHN'S CHURCH, 
PALEOLOGUS, INDIAN ANTIQUITIES. 



Hackleton's Cliff is easily reached from Bathsheba 
by those who can walk or ride, and is distant about a 
mile and a half from that place. The cliff is bold 
and steep and is 1,000 feet in height. Its face is 
covered with grasses, ferns, creeping plants and 
various species of palms. The view from the " Top 
of the Cliff " is grand. On every piece of projecting 
rock some tree has literally planted itself, so that at 
a little distance, and seen from below, the range of 
cliffs look like walls of foliage. Some distance to 
the south, but still on the same plateau, is the parish 
church of " St. John," perched on the very edge of 
the chasm, which descends deep and dark to the 
valley lying so far below. St. John's Church is most 
easily reached by the tourist by driving along ex- 
cellent roads from Bridgetown. 

The former church was destroyed in the hurri- 
cane of 1 83 1. The present structure was built a 
short time afterwards, and is considered one of the 
prettiest churches in the island. The prospect from 
the churchyard towards St. Joseph's and St. Andrew's 
is sublime ; the hilly and undulating regions of that 
district, the peculiar formation of the cliffs and the 
deep blue color of the se*a, edged with white where 
the waves wash the shore, form an interesting picture. 
If the eye glances southwards, the comparatively 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CAR IB BEE ISLANDS. 149 

level ground of St. Philip's parish is seen studded 
with numerous small buildings, forming a strong con- 
trast with the hilly appearance of the northeastern 
prospect. At the foot lie some plantations, with 
gray-looking buildings, although from such a height 
there seems to be scarcely any space left for erecting 
buildings between the foot of the cliff and the sea 
shore. A large mass of the cliff has glided down 
from its original site, leaving a chasm ; a huge rock, 
having the appearance of au old watch-tower covered, 
instead of the northern ivy, with tropical lianas and 
straggling shrubs, rises about thirty feet, and forms 
a remarkable object in the prospect. No description 
can do justice to the prospect from this point, or to 
that from the Cotton Tower on Hackelton's Cliff. To 
stand at either of these points when the sun is setting, 
and the lower part of the valley lying between the 
foot of the cliff and the sea is every moment assum- 
ing deeper tones of darkness and eclipse, is an ex- 
perience not soon to be forgotten. 

A peculiar interest is attached to this churchyard, 
as being the resting place of the last of the Paleologi, 
a descendant of that imperial race, whom the as- 
cendency of eastern barbarians drove from the 
sacred city of Constantinople, where now in lieu of 
the Cross, its temples are surmounted by the Cres- 
cent. Of the correctness of this assertion, antiquarin 
research have proved the truth.* 

When the victorious followers of the Crescent had 
driven those who survived the last terrible assault 
into distant lands, or enslaved them, the remnant of 
the proud family of the Constantines wandered over 
the countries of Europe seeking a rest and home. 
Like many other representatives of fallen fortunes, 
the Paleologi gravitated towards England, the refuge 
of the oppressed, and so it.. : came about that Ferdi- 

*See Schomburgk History of Barbados pp. 229. 



150 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

nando Paleologus came to Barbados and became 
proprietor of an estate now called Ashford. 

He occupied many positions of honor and trust 
from 1649 to 1678, when he died and was buried in 
the parish church of St. John ; leaving one son, 
Theodore, who did not lonsr survive his father, and the 
estates then passed away from the family, of which 
there are no representatives left on the island. 

But there, on that high lonely cliff, surely no unfit 
spot for the last resting place of the illustrious 
descendant of the Greek Emperors, looking towards 
the old world, across the still lonely sea, Paleologus 
sleeps — his face to the east — waiting to use his own 
departing words, "to attend the joyful resurrection 
of the just to eternal life." 

When the ruins of the church were removed after 
the hurricane of 1831, the coffin of Ferdinando 
Paleologus was discovered under the organ-loft, in the 
vault of Sir Peter Colleton. The circumstance that 
the coffin stood in a direction opposite to the usual 
method in the vault drew attention to it ; the head 
was lying to the west, the feet pointing to the east 
according to the Greek custom. The coffin was of 
lead, and in it was found a skeleton of extraordinary 
size, imbedded in quicklime, which was another Greek 
custom. 

Although Paleologus had filled the situation of a 
vestryman of a Protestant communion, the orders 
which he must have given with regard to his burial, 
prove that he died in the faith of the Greek church. 
The coffin was carefully deposited in the vault of 
Josiah Heath, of Redland. 

It is said that during the last conflict of the Greeks, 
for independence, and the delivery of their land from 
the oppression of the Turk, a letter was sent to 
the authorities in Barbados by the provisional Greek 
Government, inquiring whether a male branch of the 
Paleologi was still existing on the island, and con- 




Entrance to Farley Hall. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 151 

veying the request that, if it should be the case, he 
should be provided with the means of returning to 
Greece, and the Government would, if required, pay 
all the expense of the voyage. 

As stated in the first chapter on Barbados, the 
island when discovered by the English, had been 
depopulated of its native inhabitants by the Spaniards, 
who took the Indians away to Espanola and sold 
them as slaves on the pretext of their being Caribs. 
That the island had been previously populated, is 
further proven by the large number of Indian imple- 
ments found in all parts of the island, especially an 
article made of the thick part of the interior of the 
conch-shell (S trombus gigas), shaped like a gouge and 
commonly supposed to be chisels, but which in fact 
were used as hoes by the Indians in cultivating the 
" manioc " or cassava plant. They are found in such 
large quantities, that the late Sir Graham Briggs 
(who had the largest and best collection of Indian 
relics ever collected in Barbados) by giving the 
negroes a penny apiece for them, had at his death, 
collected a cart load of these hoes, at his residence at 
Farley Hill. During a visit to this estate, the writer 
was allowed through the kindness of Mr. James 
Howell, to select and take away as many as he 
desired. 

There are many caves on the island that were 
formerly occupied by the Indians. In St. Peter's 
parish there is one called the " Indian Castle ; " it is 
of some extent, and entirely protected by the over- 
shelving rock against wind and rain. Near it is a 
reservoir of water, partly natural, partly excavated, 
called the Indian Pond. The soil here is clayey and 
it is supposed that the Indians made their earthen- 
ware of it. A large idol, the head of which alone 
weighed sixty pounds, was found near here ; it stood 
upon a pedestal above three feet high. Several 
others, of smaller size and of burnt clay, were like- 
wise found in this neighborhood. 



152 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

Under Mount Gilboa in the parish of St Lucy, is 
a large cave, which was one of the resorts of the 
Indians. The Rev. Griffith Hughes found here 
several of their broken images, pipes, hatchets and 
chisels.* 

A large cave was discovered in digging a well near 
Black Rock in St. Michael's parish. It is about five 
hundred yards from the sea, and was only accessible 
by a small opening, which was closed by rolling a 
large stone before it. In the course of time this had 
been covered by bushes and shrubs. It is very 
spacious, about forty feet long and fifteen feet in 
breadth, and appears to have been a great resort for 
the Indians; the walls exhibit the marks of their 
chisels, and contain some niches. 

Six-Men's Bay is said to have received its name 
from the circumstance that the first settlers saw here 
six Indians. It is quite probable that some few 
Indians may have been on the island when the crew 
of the Olive Blossom first landed. Hughes states in 
his history that there was a tradition among the 
oldest inhabitants in his day, that Indians were 
frequently seen during the early days of the settle- 
ment, and that they came from the island of St. 
Vincent in their canoes. 

♦Hughes' History of Barbados p. 7. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 153 



CHAPTER XV. 



AGRICULTURE AMD INDUSTRIES. 



The chief articles of exportation for some years 
after the settlement of Bardados, were indigo, cotton, 
ginger and aloes, besides several kinds of woods. 
The manufacture of sugar does not appear to have 
been practiced with much success till about the 
middle of the 17th century, when the cultivation of 
the sugar cane increased rapidly, and the plant 
became, in commercial importance, the island's 
most important production. At that period, too, 
African labor was introduced. The King's proc- 
lamation abolishing slavery was issued in 1833, 
and involuntary servitude ceased in 1840. The 
largest crop of sugar ever raised in Barbados, 
previously to this time, was in 1838, amounting to 
32,500 hogsheads pf sugar, and 9,305 puncheons of 
molasses. On the freeing of the slaves in 1840, 
there was exported only 13,500 hogsheads of sugar 
and 2,352 puncheons of molasses. The product of 
1871 amounted, to 53,800 hogsheads of sugar and 
33>5°° puncheons of molasses. In 1889 the product 
amounted to 65,268 hogsheads of sugar and 44,818 
puncheons of molasses. The area under sugar cul- 
tivation is 100,000 acres. Except in Barbados, the 
emancipation of the slaves was disastrous to the 
prosperity of the West India Islands, and they have 
never yet recovered from the blow thereby dealt at 



154 



STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 



their commerce. Immediately after the declaration 
of freedom, the profits on the sugar industry began 
to decrease, and now it is a struggle for existence 
against the bounty-supported, trust sugar of Europe. 
A few words here will serve to describe the sys- 
tem of making sugar, in operation on most of the 
sugar estates in Barbados, where the expensive pro- 
cess of boiling in vacuum-pans, are not in use. 




Windmill and Boiling House. 
The cane is carried from the field in ox carts, then 
passed through the rollers of the grinding mill which 
is worked by the wind, nearly every estate depending 
upon its windmill for its power. Passing through 
the rollers the cane is deprived of its juice, and the 
fibre or " trash " is carried on by an endless band to 
fall into a cart below, from which it is spread out in 
the fields to dry, and in due time finds its way back 
to the furnaces in the boiling-house. Meanwhile, 
the juice runs through strainers, and is lifted by a 
force-pump to oblong troughs which stand near the 
chimneys of the furnace. In these troughs it is allowed 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 



155 



to settle, and the scum rises in a few minutes to the 
surface, a gentle heat being applied meanwhile. The 
syrup is then drawn off into a train of copper kettles 
below, to be converted into sugar. In the first of 
these kettles it is treated to a little milk of lime, 
which causes the scum to rise to the surface in a 
dense body, when it is removed by the negroes with 
a common strainer or skimmer. From this pan it is 
passed to others, according to its advance towards 
crystalization, nearer, and nearer, to the mouth of 
the furnace, boiling furiously until it reaches at last, 
after a passage of several hours, the " strike pan " 
over the very mouth of the furnace. As the entire 



v" 1 ;m» 




Boiling House. 

contents of one pan is discharged 
J^ into the next, at the same time that 
^a fresh supply of juice is introduced 
"""from those behind it, all are kept full, 
and the scene is very lively when the fires are good and 
the syrup boils briskly. A negro watches each pan, or 
more frequently has two under- his care, and is 
actively at work tossing the syrup into the air when 
the bubbles become too large and run over into the 
next pan, thus showing that there is danger of burn- 
ing the sugar. At other times the negroes are busy 



156 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

skimming off, with a light hand, any scum that might 
arise. 

The most delicate process in the manufacture of 
sugar, is the test of it when it reaches the last pan 
and becomes thick. In the last few minutes before 
it is fit to be removed from the fire, the crystals 
form with great rapidity, and the sugar-master is 
constantly trying the syrup with his finger and 
thumb, the " touch test." -When the sugar reaches 
this state, there is much danger of burning, and 
upon the skill of the sugar-master, in making the 
" strike " at the right moment, will depend the quality 
of the sugar. 

From the strike-pan the sugar is run into shallow 
coolers where it remains for about twenty-four hours, 
and is* then transferred to cones, such as are used in 
sugar-refineries, to drain off the molasses. Some- 
times the " strike " is passed into a long narrow 
box with fenders six feet high on two sides of it. 
Two negroes, taking their position at either end, toss 
the syrup into the air with copper ladles working on 
pivots, until it is so exposed to the air as to be frothy, 
and crusts the sides of the box like the spongy lava 
around the crater of a volcano. It is then passed 
directly into the cones and crystalizes in a few hours. 
The object of crystalizing in shallow pans is that 
the crystals, floating loosely in a greater space may 
form freely and of a large grain. Those who crys- 
talize in cones say that the same object is obtained 
by gently stirring the cooling syrup once or twice on 
the' first day. On the second day the cone is moved 
into the purging-house, and is not touched again for 
three weeks, except once to remove the plug at the 
bottom of the inverted cone that the molasses may 
drain off into proper receptacles, to be boiled again 
and dried as muscovado sugar. A cloth is laid over the 
top of the cone while the molasses is draining, and 
soft mud or clay spread upon it. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 157 



This draining of the contained water through the 
sugar drives the molasses before it to the apex of 
the cone, and after twenty days the loaf of sugar in 
the cone is found to be hard, white at the base, brown 
in the middle and yellow at the top with molasses at 
the apex. 




Ready for Market. 

In the early days of the settlement, the planters 
had considerable trouble in transporting their sugar 
to Bridgetown on account of the gullies and poor 
roads. Camels were used for this purpose, as is 
shown on a rare and curious map published by Ligon 
in his History of Barbados in 1647. He says, " First 
I must name Camels, and these are very useful 
beasts, but very few will live upon the Island, divers 
of them have been brought over, but few know how 
to dyet them. Captain Higginbotham had four or 
five, which were of excellent use, not only for carry- 



158 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

ing down sugar to the bridge, but of bringing from 
thence hogsheads of Wine, Beer or Vinegar, which 
horses cannot do, nor carts pass for gullies and 
negroes cannot carry it, a good camel will carry 1,600 
pounds weight and go the surest of any beast." 

This curious map shows the hunting of runaway 
negroes, also where the Indian slaves dwelt, and 
their canoes. The hunting of wild hogs, and the 
parts of the island where the cattle, sheep and pack 
horses were kept and the names of all of the 
planters, and the location of their houses. The copy 
shown in this work is an exact photographic repro- 
duction from the original. 

In the Scotland district there are mineral products 
of great economic and commercial importance to the 
people of Barbados. But very little outlay of capital 
would be required, and it would afford employment 
to the surplus population, making a material improve- 
ment in the condition of the laboring classes and 
increasing the commerce and revenue of the island. 
First among others is the petroleum and asphalt 
deposits. At present the industry of collecting and 
refining this substance is in a languishing condition ; 
it is chiefly employed as a lubricant, and as a con- 
stituent in certain quack medicines. It might become 
of great importance to the planters as a fuel for use 
in the works, and could be used in the present fur- 
naces by steeping the cane trash in the petroleum ; 
but to obtain the full advantage of its use, special 
furnaces would have to be constructed. 

The chalky beds of the oceanic series possess a 
value, partly from their chemical composition and 
partly from the fact of their lying close to the dark 
clays, the two deposits forming the materials for the 
manufacture of cement. This ought to form the 
basis of an important industry, and should enable 
Barbados to furnish the West Indies with a good and 
cheap cement at a moderate cost. There is a com- 



r" 














Atopographicaft Description and 
Admeasurement of the YLAND of 

BARBADOS m tneWe/t INDIES 

With tke HJ* flames of the Seueratl pla.ntacora// 







^4 







V? 








«.«* -j?. «; a <a 1 ' 





W&v"*^ 







-4 Sca.lc of -five. Miles 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 159 

pany now being formed for the making of cement, 
and if this business is followed up with energy, it 
will be one of the most prominent industries of the 
island. 

In certain parts of the coral-rock Barbados pos- 
sesses excellent material for burning into lime ; and 
as there is a great demand for lime throughout the 
West Indies, a good export trade ought to be de- 
veloped. The best of coral will contain from 90 to 
98 per cent, of carbonate of lime, and the lime which 
is made from it is quite equal in quality to the best 
Bristol lime, which is at present the kind most 
favored by West Indian planters. 

The fine sandy clays which occur in the Scotland 
district are of considerable thickness, from which 
excellent bricks, tiles and pottery is now being made. 
As this industry is further developed, buildings 
will be constructed of bricks, which will be drier than 
those made of coral rock, and will possess a much 
more pleasing color and appearance. 

In the middle portion of the oceanic series, beds of 
white earth occur of exceedingly light specific grav- 
ity, and almost purely silicious. * This material 
is now used as a boiler-covering or felting, through 
the British West Indies and in the most important 
works of British Guiana. Another use for which 
this earth can be put, is the preparation of polishing 
powders, its freedom from all gritty matter making 
it peculiarly suitable for this purpose. 

The telephone has been established in Barbados 
with great success. Nowhere in the world has fuller 
advantage been taken of this invention than here. 
This is probably due to the fact that charges are 
very moderate, #2.50 per month, the distances very 
short, and the customers very numerous, nearly every 
well-to-do person being on the telephone list. The 
enterprise has proved not only a great convenience 
to the public, but a profitable investment for the 
shareholders who started it. 



160 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

The Barbados Railway has also proved to be of 
great advantage to the island. The project of con- 
necting the different parishes by a system of rail- 
roads which was to centre in Bridgetown was first 
agitated in 1845 ; the railroad has now been in 
successful operation for several years. 

The Horse-cars or " Tramways " have also been 
of great advantage to Barbados, as the several lines 
that centre in Bridgetown render the suburbs of the 
town very accessible, and enables parties that do 
not own their own carriages, the opportunity of 
living in the country instead of the crowded part of 
the town, where they formerly resided. 

The introduction of a water supply to Bridgetown 
and the country districts was a great boon to the 
inhabitants, there being a supply of pure water now 
within reach of every household. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CAR IB BEE ISLANDS. 161 



CHAPTER XVI. 

RELIGION AND EDUCATION. 



The greater part of the population of Barbados 
belong to the Episcopal Church, the places of worship 
of this denomination exceeding in number and seating 
capacity those of the other sects all put together. 
The census of 1882 gives the Church of England a 
following of 156,539. 

There is but one Roman Catholic chapel on the 
island ; it is situated about half a mile from Bridge- 
town opposite the General Hospital, and close to 
Bay Road leading from Bridgetown to Hastings and 
Worthing. The chapel is a handsome little structure, 
and near by, within the grounds and separated from 
the burial ground by a carriage drive, is the residence 
of the mission priest. The congregation is smaller 
than might be expected, for it would be supposed 
that the ritual of the Church of Rome, the images, 
and pictured walls, with the altar and its surroundings, 
would prove an irresistible attraction for the negro 
mind ; but the staid decorum and solemnity of the 
service is burdensome to these people who like to 
give vent to their excited feelings in impromptu 
groanings, amens, and glory hallelujahs, and are 
pleased to imagine they can hear when " Gabriel 
blow he trumpet in de mornin' " and see " de golden 
stairs." For this reason the Salvation Army and 
the Methodists is more to the liking of the negro 
mind, for they allow more scope for the display of 



162 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

individual feeling than in either the Roman or An- 
gelican church. The total Roman Catholic popula- 
tion of Barbados, according to the census of 1882, is 
only 816. 

The Methodists possess several neat and commo- 
dious chapels, one in James street Bridgetown, one 
in the Bay Road, one near the Garrison on the 
Dalkeith Road, and others in the country districts. 
They have also several ministers of good attainments 
and zeal, who are engaged in what may still be termed 
mission work. The census of 1882 gives the Metho- 
dists a following of 14,485. 

The Quakers, with that benevolent feeling, for 
converting the heathen to Christianity, so prominent 
in their character, saw a wide field open for their 
exertions after the introduction of African slaves. 
Their endeavors to instruct the negroes were, how- 
ever, considered dangerous, as promulgating a sense 
of equality, which might lead to insurrections, and 
many were obliged to leave the island in consequence 
of severe prosecution. On the 21st of April 1676, 
an Act passed the Council to prevent negroes from 
attending the religious meetings of Quakers ; this 
caused all the Quakers to finally leave the island. 

Their place was taken by another sect, the Mor- 
avians, or United Brethren, who led the way as 
missionaries for the propagation of the gospel among 
the heathen of the West Indies. Their unassuming 
and humble conduct, and non-interference with the 
political, and domestic, state of the field of their 
operation, and their religious zeal, soon gained them 
the esteem of their fellowmen, and likewise obtained 
for them the approbation and encouragement of 
numerous private individuals, who by bequests in 
favor of the missions, showed the appreciation they 
entertained of their pious exertions. The work of 
this society at the present time lie in the country 
districts, where their efforts for the promotion of 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 163 

primary education have proved valuable civilizers. 
The Moravians numbered 6,80 1 in the census of 1882. 

The Jews settled here as early as 1628 and although 
they were occasionally subjected to persecution and 
oppression, the policy they exhibited in keeping on 
good terms with the powers that were, caused their 
civil rights to be extended in 1680, and their testi- 
mony, which had been long rejected in the courts of 
law, was from that time admitted in all civil suits, 
upon an oath taken upon the five books of Moses, 
according to the tenets of their religion. At one 
period the congregation consisted of a very large 
number, but from deaths and the return of many of the 
European families to England, the number has been 
reduced to almost nothing, there being but 21 Jews 
on the island when the last census was taken in 
1882. The circumstance of their having so many as 
five burial grounds, three of which are completely 
filled, and a synagogue which is considered to be 
one of the handsomest and most substantial building 
of its kind in the West Indies, proves that the con- 
gregation must have been considerable. 

The name of the congregation is " Kaal Kadosh 
Nidhe Israel " or the holy, scattered congregation of 
Israel. The synagogue was so severely injured by the 
great hurricane in 183 1 that it was deemed necessary 
to erect a new edifice. The present building was 
erected in 1833 at a cost of $14,000 which was en- 
tirely met by the funds of the community without 
any outside assistance of any kind. 

The Episcopal churches and chapels are thickly 
scattered over the island ; the clergy list for Barba- 
dos containing between forty and fifty names of those 
who are engaged in ministerial work in one way or 
another. The parish church of St Michael's parish, 
sometimes called the cathedral, is situated in Bridge- 
town. It is a large but not a handsome structure. 
There is no dean or capitular body and the bishop of 



1 64 STA RK'S HIS TOR Y AND GUIDE 

the diocese is in the same position towards the rector 
of the church that he is to any other. 

The Chapel of " St. Paul " and that named from 
St. Ambrose are also in the vicinity of Bridgetown 
and in St. Michael's parish. There is another chapel 
in the village of Hastings, St. Matthias', quite con- 
venient to the Marine Hotel. Visitors who wish to 
avail themselves of full church privileges can easily 
do so in Barbados, except when they are staying at 
Bathsheba, from which it is very difficult to reach a 
church. The parish church of St. Joseph's is the 
nearest, but the road to it is very steep ; and although 
the building itself is handsome and the service good, 
people staying at Bathsheba do not as a rule think 
of attending there. 

Although the Episcopal church may be said to be 
the established church in Barbados, yet as the prin- 
ciple of concurrent endowment is acknowledged, and 
any denomination can establish a claim on the revenue 
of the island for an amount, greater or less, accord- 
ing to the number of its adherents, there is no 
jealousy, or very little felt, against it. There is a de- 
cided impression here that religion is, among this 
teeming, ignorant and impulsive population, the chief 
bulwark of social order. 

One of the greatest obstacles to the civilization of 
the negroes, is their superstitious and unreasoning 
belief and dread of anything coming under the head 
of what they call " Obeah " or " Voodooism." These 
degrading and superstitious beliefs in the occult 
power, were brought from Africa by their ancestors, 
and it is astonishing what a hold it has upon them 
notwithstanding the teachings of Christian clergy- 
men. A minister said recently, M I can assure you 
that one of the greatest obstacles I meet with in my 
work among my parishoners, is their foolish and deeply 
rooted belief in the power of rhe Obeah man, which 
meets me at every turn. I have tried everything 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 165 

to combat his baneful influence, but with little effect. 
I have endeavored to prove to them how ridiculous 
and senseless their ideas are. I obtain only a seem- 
ing acquiescence and make no lasting impression." 

During slavery days the practice of Obeah was 
rampant in all the West Indian colonies, and laws 
were passed to put it down, and combat its baneful 
influence. There were few of the large estates which 
had not one or more Obeah men among their slaves. 
They were usually the oldest and most crafty of the 
blacks ; those whose hoary heads and harsh and 
forbidding aspect, together with some skill in plants 
of the medicinal and poisonous species, and in the 
superstitious rites, which they brought with them 
from Guinea and the Congo, qualified them for 
successful impositions on the weak and credulous. 
A great loss of slave property was caused by their 
poisonings through their use of poisonous roots, 
and plants unknown to science, found in every 
tropical wood. The secret and insidious manner 
in which the crime is generally perpetrated makes 
detection exceedingly difficult. It is this fear 
that causes the negroes to dread and venerate any 
man with the reputation of " working Obeah." He 
is looked upon by all with the greatest deference. 

One day while the writer was taking a stroll in 
Barbados, he dropped into a wayside court-house. 
An " Obeah " case was being tried the; defendant 
was accused of working Obeah on a woman by placing 
a coffin on her doorstep, which was produced in 
evidence. It consisted of a small coffin of cardboard, 
about six inches in length, covered with black satin ; 
a large seed dressed in black and white pieces 
of a shroud to represent the corpse, was in the coffin ; 
and also a parrot's feather, a small bottle containing a 
liquid, and graveyard dust, pieces of a shroud from 
a grave, rusty nails from a coffin, several coins, round 
pellets, like marbles and several other articles, all of 



166 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

which had a meaning to the superstitious negroes. 
There not being sufficient evidence against the 
accused, he was discharged ; and the judge very kindly 
presented me with the " Obeah " which has a place 
now in my cabinet. 

Voodooism exists, not only in the West Indies, 
but also in the United States, especially in Louisiana, 
and, strange to say, even in Boston, the most cultured 
city in the United States. The Boston Herald, the 
leading paper in New England, recently published an 
article five and a half columns long, the object of 
which was to demonstrate that it existed to an 
alarming extent among the negroes of Boston and 
New England generally. The Herald says : 

" Voodooism, of which much has been hinted, a little 
written, but almost nothing known, one of the blackest, 
cruelist and most heathen forms of idolatry the world 
has ever seen, exists today to an alarming extent right here 
in Puritan New England." 

Most white Bostonians believed that the article 
was full of exaggerations, but to the general surprise, 
the negroes practically admitted the impeachment, 
by passing a resolution at the meeting of the Colored 
National League, held in Boston in July, 1889, con- 
demning "the practice of that degrading superstition, 
Voodooism, which exist here in Boston among the 
illiterate and ignorant of our race." 

As early as the commencement of the eighteenth 
century, the legislature of Barbados had under con- 
sideration the erection of a college and its endow- 
ment, for the purpose of educating the youth of the 
island, instead of sending them to Great Britain ; 
which in many instances the means of the parents 
would not permit. It appears that the young gentle- 
men from Barbados, distinguished themselves at 
that period in the universities in England by the 
" gaiety of their dress and equipage." 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 167 

About this time General Codington must have 
conceived the idea of bequeathing sufficent property 
for this purpose to the " Society for the Propagation 
of the Gospel in Foreign Parts," as the will by which 
he devises this property is dated 1702, and is as 
follows : 

" I give and bequeath my two plantations in the island 
of Barbados to the Society for the Propagation of the 
Christian Religion in Foreign Parts, erected and estab- 
lished by my late good master, King William III. ; and 
my desire is to have the plantation continued entire, and 
three hundred negroes, at least always kept thereon, and a 
convenient number of professors and scholars maintained 
there, all of them to be under the vows of poverty, chastity 
and obedience ; who shall be obliged to study and prac- 
tice physic and chirurgery, as well as divinity ; and by the 
apparent usefulness of the former, to all mankind, they may 
both endear themselves to the people, and have better 
opportunities of doing good to men's souls, whilst they are 
taking care of their bodies ; but the particulars of the 
constitution I leave to the Society, composed of wise and 
good men." 

The author of " European Possessions in America " 
stated that " Colonel Christopher Codrington was 
noted for his amiable and useful qualities both in 
public and private life, for his courage and zeal for 
the good of his country, his humanity, his knowledge 
and love of literature, and was by far the richest pro- 
duction and most shining ornament Barbados ever 
had." 

This distinguished individual, of whom frequent 
mention has been made in this work, was the son of 
General Codrington, the brave companion in arms of 
Sir Timothy Thornhill. He was born in Barbados 
in 1668, and was educated at Christ Church, 
Oxford. Having taken in that college, one degree, 
he was admitted in 1689 Probationer Fellow of All 
Souls' College ; afterwards, entering the army, he 



168 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

was at the seige of Namur. Upon the conclusion of 
the peace of Ryswick, he was appointed Captain- 
General and Governor of the Leeward Islands, and 
showed great bravery at the attack on Guadaloupe 
on the 1 2th of March 1703. He shortly afterward 
resigned his offices and applied himself chiefly 
to literature. He died at Barbados on the 7th of 
April 1 710, and was buried at Bridgetown the follow- 
ing day ; but his body was afterwards carried to 
England, and interred in the Chapel of All Souls' 
College, Oxford ; to which college he left his col- 
lection of books valued at .£6,000 sterling, and 
,£10,000 sterling in money for the erection of a 
library. 

It was only after the opening of the will that the 
Society for the Propagation of the Gospel became 
acquainted with the munificent bequest of the planta- 
tions, which were computed to yield an annual income 
of ,£2,000 sterling, clear of all charges. They were 
called Consett's and Codrington's estates, and con- 
sisted of 763 acres of land, three windmills, with the 
necessary buildings for the cultivation and manufac- 
ture of sugar, 315 negroes and 100 head of cattle. 

In 1 7 16 it was resolved to commence building the 
college. A commission had been appointed, consist- 
ing of the Governor and other influential persons in 
the colony, to superintend the erection of the building. 
Colonel William Codrington promised the timber 
necessary to repair all the buildings upon the estate 
for seven years to come, and five hundred guineas 
for the purchase of books. The government prom- 
ised its assistance, by permitting the cutting of 
timber in Tobago and St. Vincent, and the convey- 
ance of same by ships of the royal navy to Barbados. 
Mr. John Lane presented the college with a bell, 
which proved very acceptable. A number of 
mechanics were sent from England, and the masonry 
of the buildings was finished in 1721. The coral 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 169 

limestone for the building was taken from a hill in 
front of the building ; it was easily worked into various 
designs without much labor, and after exposure to 
the weather became quite hard. The college building 
remained for many years unfinished, on account of a 
debt due to the Society's general fund from the 
Codrington estates which it did not clear off until 
1738. 

Rev. Thomas Rotherham, M. A. of Queen's Col- 
lege, Oxford, was appointed schoolmaster and Mr. 
Joseph Bewsham, B. A., usher and catechist. Their 
instructions were to teach gratis twenty children, the 
sons of persons who could not afford to educate them 
in the learned languages, and these children to be 
maintained in diet, washing and lodging, at the 
expense of the Society. 

In 1745 Mr. Bryant, of St. John's College, Cam- 
bridge, was appointed Professor of Philosophy and 
Mathematics ; he was to instruct not only the scholars 
of the foundations, but also such young gentlemen 
of Barbados as should be desirous of receiving 
instruction. In 1748 there were thirty scholars 
exclusive of those of the foundation ; and the testa- 
tor's will may be considered to have been executed 
at that period to its full extent. 

This flourishing state did not last long. Mr. 
Bryant died, and subsequent ill health rendered the 
resignation of Mr. Rotherham necessary. Several 
other changes also ensued which were not calculated 
to improve the institution. During the destructive 
hurricane of 1780 the estate received great damage, 
and part of the college, particularly the chapel, was 
much injured, the roof being blown off, the walls, 
however, remaining standing. 

Several years passed without any material change. 
In 18 1 3 the number of boys on the foundation was 
reduced to twelve, who were boarded by the principal 
at his house ; .£40 per annum being allowed for the 



170 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

board of each boy. This reduction was undertaking 
with a view of substituting a stipend of ,£100 sterling 
per annum, for such of the foundation scholars as 
should distinguish themselves by diligence and good 
conduct, and be desirous of prosecuting their studies 
in either divinity, law or physics, in one of the 
English universities. A minister was provided for 
the instruction of the negroes, and schools upon the 
national system were founded upon each trust estate. 

In 1825 Barbados became the seat of the Bishopric 
of the Windward and Leeward Islands ; it was then 
resolved that the constitution of the college should 
be so far amended as to admit of the appointment of 
a principal and tutor with a view to the preparation 
of a certain number of students for holy orders; 
twelve of whom, maintained and educated free of any 
charge, should be chosen from any part of his 
Majesty's West India possessions: and that "in 
order to meet the wishes of the benevolent provider 
in every particular way, a medical professor be ap- 
pointed to give lectures to the students in physics 
and chirurgery. Further, that in connection and in 
subordination to this establishment at the college, 
a seminary be opened at the residence of the Chap- 
lain, wherein a limited number of boys may be 
admitted for gratuitous education, and be prepared, 
if such be the wish of the parents, as candidates for 
their future admission into the higher department." 
Thus the foundation of a university was laid, and the 
Bishop of Barbados was appointed Visitor, instead of 
the principal civil authorities, who had previously 
been authorized to act as such. 

On Thursday, September 9th 1830, the day ap- 
pointed for the opening of the college, (on which day 
in 1745 the school was first opened), the students 
repaired to Codrington College, and all persons of 
official rank having been invited to attend, the 
ceremony began about noon. The exhibitioners 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS, 171 

habited in the scholar's cap and gown of Oxford, and 
the commoners in the usual dress of commoners of 
that university, headed the procession from the 
principal lodge to the great entrance of the College 
Hall, and were followed by the Principal, Tutors, 
Bishop and Archdeacon of Barbados and the Governor, 
Sir James Lyon and other public officials. 

Who of those that assisted or were present at 
these solemnities could have thought that before a 
year had elapsed, the buildings of the college would 
be unroofed and so much injured by the dreadful 
hurricane of 183 1, that the residents were rendered 
houseless. Each wing of the colleges was over- 
thrown ; the hall, chapel, library and steward's 
offices were demolished, and all the out-buildings 
thrown down. The most necessary repairs of the 
college, after the hurricane, amounted to ,£1,500. 
The chapel and other buildings, which are very 
prettily situated in the parish of St. John's near 
the sea, still bear the scars of its old wounds, 
although restored. 

The drive to Codrington College is very fine and 
the scenery beautiful. It should not be on any 
account omitted by visitors who would desire to see 
what is best worth seeing in Barbados. This college 
is affiliated to the University of Durham, and its 
students are admissible to all Degrees, Licences and 
Academical ranks in the several Faculties of that 
university. 

Besides Codrington College, Barbados is well sup- 
plied with schools. A sum of £ 1 5,000 is appropriated 
from the public revenue yearly, and placed at the 
disposal of the Education Board under certain fixed 
regulations for the general purpose of education. 
There are two schools of the first grade for boys, 
Harrison College and The Lodge, and one school of 
the first rank for girls, Queen College. 

Harrison College was founded as a " Free School " 



172 STARK^S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

in 1733 by Thomas Harrison, a merchant of Bridge- 
town, who purchased a piece of land adjoining the 
parish church of St. Michael, the present cathedral, 
upon which he erected a spacious building. These 
premises he conveyed by deed, July 30th 1733, to 
certain trustees, who were empowered to elect proper 
masters, and to place on the foundation of the school 
twenty-four poor and indigent boys of the parish, to 
be instructed in reading, writing, ciphering and the 
Latin and Greek languages, without fee or reward ; 
the. master or masters to have liberty to take into the 
school and teach upon pay any other scholars, for 
their own benefits. 

Mr. Moxly, the author of " A West Indian Sana- 
torium " in referring to this school says, " Having 
had much experience' in school work, and having for 
several years in succession been mathematical ex- 
aminer of Harrison's College, I feel bound to state 
that I never knew a school in which the teaching was 
more thorough and effectually done." It may well 
seem a surprising thing to find on this coral-bank in 
the midst of the ocean, and under the tropical sun, 
a school from which boys go direct to compete 
successfully for the open scholarships of the most 
famous colleges in Oxford and Cambridge, and that 
the names of its old boys appear in the lists of 
"firsts." 

It is true that the principal is assisted by a staff 
of university men ; but when the difficulties in the 
way, and the limited area from which pupils are 
drawn are considered, the success of* the school 
seems astonishing. A " preparatory class " for boys 
of about nine years of age has been formed and given 
into the sole charge of a university man of experience 
and skill in teaching, who devotes all his time to 
these little fellows. It is thus, by beginning with 
the most thorough work and the best methods at the 
very outset, that the school has gained its present 



TO BARBADOS AND THE C A RIB BEE ISLANDS. 173 

position. There is probably no Barbadian institution 
of which the islanders have more reason to be proud 
than Harrison's College. 

The buildings stand in extensive grounds, amid 
many fine trees. The Government Laboratory, is 
located in a wing of the present school building, and 
the " Island Professor of Chemistry," a gentleman 
of distinction in the scientific world, lectures certain 
classes of the pupils, and also a class of the girls 
from the Queen's College. 

The Lodge School, St. John's parish, is an old 
school resuscitated, it has not yet had time to gain 
distinction by the success of its pupils either at the 
universities or in the struggle for existence in the 
outer world, but it is expected from its progress 
hitherto, soon to take a prominent position. The 
.Master is allowed to take private boarders by the 
Governing Board. 

Queen's College, for girls, is quite a new, though 
already flourishing institution. It is located in suit- 
able buildings within a quarter of a mile of Bridge- 
town. The head teacher and her assistants, are 
ladies possessing excellent qualifications and experi- 
ence gained in good schools in England, and in their 
hands Queen's College is daily becoming more and 
more of a necessity. 

There are four second-grade public schools. The 
Combermere, of Bridgetown, (formerly the Boys Cen- 
tral School) was founded in 1819 for the maintenance 
and education of poor white children from different 
parishes of the island. Lord Combermere, when 
Governor of Barbados, took the liveliest interest in 
the promotion of this school. 

The Alleyne School of St. Andrew's parish, (for- 
merly the Seminary), was erected and endowed in the 
year 1785 by Sir John Gay Alleyne, Bart; then 
Speaker of the House of Assembly. A bequest of 
^20 per year, payable out of the Blower plantation^ 



174 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

to be applied to this school, was left by J. Bryant, 
and also an equal amount to the parish of St. Thomas 
and to the parish of St. James, for a similar purpose. 

The other second-grade school is the Coleridge 
School of St. Peters, and the Parry School of St. 
Lucy's, (formerly St. Lucy's Middle School). 

The primary schools are scattered over the 
island in great numbers. The pupils are taught 
reading, writing and arithmetic, and in many of the 
schools the girls receive instruction in needlework. 
The public schools are open to all, irrespective of 
color or creed. The color line is drawn only in the 
private schools, which are numerous throughout the 
island. 

The public library of Barbados is in Bridgetown, 
and is located in one of the public buildings forming 
one side of Trafalgar Square. The library was 
established bylaw in 1847, and is supported by an 
annual grant of ,£625 ; of which sum ^300 are de- 
voted to the purchase of books and periodicals, and 
the remainder, £325, is expended in salaries and 
incidental expenses. The library is perfectly free 
and open to all, and is conducted in a manner reflect- 
ing great credit upon those responsible for its 
management. During the writer's stay in Barbados, 
he had time and occasion to make much use of 
the library, where he found many rare books kept 
in excellent order, ready to the hand of the librarian, 
the Rev. J. E. S. Walcott, an exceedingly courteous 
and well informed gentleman. I am greatly in- 
debted to him for his kindness in enabling me to 
make the most of the short time I could spend 
in examining the treasures of which he was the 
custodian. 

The library contains in all about 21,000 volumes, 
of which an excellent catalogue combining the name 
of the author, book and subject, has* been arranged 
by the present librarian, who has also introduced the 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 175 

use of a very valuable " indicator" by which the 
intending borrower can see at a glance whether any 
book is " in " or " out " on loan. It is, however, to 
be regretted that there is no reading room attached 
to the library, as it would be a great boon to the young 
business men of Bridgetown who have no place of 
resort in the evenings unless they belong to the 
Club. It is to be hoped that the Legislature will 
take steps in that direction, and thus largely increase 
the utility of the institution at a very small additional 
expense. 

Another useful and valuable addition could be 
made to the library at very little cost, which would 
prove of great interest to strangers and of value to 
the inhabitants of Barbados. I refer to a museum 
of Barbadian curiosities, which should comprise 
a collection of the geological specimens wherein the 
island is so rich ; of the natural productions of 
Barbados, including a full collection of marine 
specimens : and above all, a collection of Indian 
implements and weapons, which are now becoming 
very scarce even in Barbados. 

It is to be forever regretted that the fine collection 
that belonged to Sir Graham Briggs was not secured 
for the benefit of the island ; yet if a nucles was 
formed, there is no doubt that in time, an equally 
good collection could be gathered together, as 
relics of the aboriginal inhabitants are continually 
being found, though the very existence in Barbados 
of such Indians has been questioned. 



176 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 



CHAPTER XVII. 

THE GEOLOGY OF BARBADOS. 



Six-sevenths of the whole area of Barbados consist 
of coral rock or limestone, constructed from the 
broken debris of corals, and of the shells and other 
organisms which live on coral reefs. The other 
seventh comprises what is known as the " Scotland 
rock," which comes to the surface in the northeastern 
part of the island, and consists of thick-bedded sand- 
stones, coarse grits, bituminous sandstones, and 
shales, dark-grey and mottled clays, with nodules of 
ironstone. This latter formation, forms the core and 
basis of the whole island, and has been reached in 
different places, through the coral formation, by some 
of the borings made recently by the Water Supply 
Company. 

Barbados presents one of the most remarkable 
instances of a coral island, which, by gradual and 
successive, elevatory movements, has been raised to 
a height of nearly twelve hundred feet above the sea ; 
differing entirely from the formation of the Bermadas 
or Bahamas, which consist entirely of oeolian sand- 
stone — coral sands drifted up by the winds, and 
cemented together by the action of the rain. 

There are no volcanic rocks in Barbados ; the idea 
that a core of volcanic rock was exposed in the north- 
eastern part of the island, is a mistake. The layers 
of volcanic sand which are interstratified with the 



TO BARBADOS AND THE C A RIB BEE ISLANDS. 177 

deposits in this district demonstrate the existence 
of an active volcano somewhere in the Caribbean 
region during' the period of their accumulation. 
Some of this sand is so fine that it appears like silt 
or mud, and thus may have been carried by the wind 
for many hundred miles before it dropped into the 
ocean. In the same manner the showers of volcanic 
dust from the eruption at St. Vincent fell on 
Barbados and the surrounding sea on May ist, 1812, 
and May 8, 1902. There can be but little doubt, 
however, that the upheaval of the island was due 
to volcanic agency, and that it took place at a time 
when volcanic eruption occurred in some of the 
other Caribbean Islands. 

It is not improbable that a local uplift was caused 
by the uprise of a mass of lava into the underlying 
rocks, forcing a portion of these upward, without 
leading to the establishing of a volcanic vent. It is 
known that a rising column of lava has sometimes 
found it easier to lift a mass of rock bodily than to 
rend its way through it ; in such cases the lava has 
flowed laterally along the plane of separation, and 
occupies a space below the strata it has lifted. Such 
a cake or cistern of solidified lava may lie beneath 
Barbados. The supposition of such a subterraneous 
intruded mass of rock would explain the arched 
position which the oceanic deposits now occupy. 
These consist of infusorial earth, skeletons of 
the minute oceanic creatures, mixed with broken 
spicules which were originally part of the framework 
of siliceous sponges, such as is now found in the 
Pacific and Atlantic ooze at a depth of 1,000 fathoms, 
forming the floors of the great oceans. This oceanic 
deposit forms a portion of a thick sheet, which at 
Mount Hillaby is about three hundred feet deep, 
covering a dome-shaped surface of the older rocks 
— *■ this surface descending from the central part of 
the island in every direction to the sea level. . 



178 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

The geological history of Barbados commences at 
a period when the sandstones of the Scotland series 
were being accumulated ; and as these beds consist of 
coarse sand, they cannot have been deposited very 
far from a shore nor in very deep water, rocks of 
this kind are in fact almost always formed in shallow 
water within 20 miles of land. It is clear, therefore, 
that the geography of the Caribbean region must at 
this early period have had a very different form from 
that which it now presents. There must have been 
a land area of some size in the vicinity of Barbados 
to furnish the materials of which these sandstones 
are composed. Whether it was connected with the 
continent or was only a large island, it is impossible 
to determine ; but it must have had mountain ranges 
consisting of hard rocks, like those which form the 
mountains in the north of Trinidad, or those in the 
central ranges of Jamaica or San Domingo. It is 
quite certain that none of this ancient land is now 
left above the sea within 100 miles of Barbados, and 
it is possible that the northern part of Trinidad 
formed a portion of this land, for there is much 
resemblance between the rocks of Barbados and 
Trinidad. 

It is also certain that there were strong and rapid 
rivers capable of carrying large quantities of sand 
and mud down to the sea in which the Scotland 
stratum was formed. It is probable that at the time 
when these strata were being accumulated the land 
was slowly sinking beneath the sea ; this is infered 
partly from the great total thickness of the Scotland 
series and of similar series in Trinidad, and partly 
from the fact that the highest beds are clays with 
nodules of ironstone, which are likely to have been 
deposited in rather deeper water than the sandstones. 
Therefore, it must be said that the first episode in 
the geological history of Barbados was the formation 
of the Scotland series in comparatively shallow 






TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 179 

water, owing its origin to the detritus carried down 
by rivers running off a land composed of quatz- 
bearing rocks. 

Between this episode and the next, it is impossible 
to say how long a period of time elapsed ; but it can 
be safely inferred that this intervening period closed 
with a great and profound subsidence, which carried 
the previously formed strata down to the bottom of 
the ocean : and that what is now the island of Barba- 
dos was then buried beneath a depth of ocean-water 
that amounted to at least from 1,000 to 2,000 
fathoms. It was then that the infusorial and cal- 
carious earth which forms the Oceanic series pre- 
viously described, was formed, which is similar to the 
oozes (siliceous muds) which are being accumulated 
on the floors of the great oceans at the present time. 
The layers of volcanic sands which are interstratified 
with these deposits contain large particles of felspar 
and pumice, and suggest that the volcanic vent was 
within 200 or 300 miles of Barbados ; though it may 
have come from some of the volcanos which still exist 
to the westward. 

The third period in the geological history of Bar- 
bados was the volcanic uplift, previously described, 
which was accompanied or followed by a general 
elevation of the whole Caribbean region, as testified 
by the occurence of Oceanic deposits in other is- 
lands, and by the raised coral reefs which occur from 
one end of the Antilles to the other. The upheaval 
of the area from the ocean depths to within a certain 
distance of the sea level may have been compara- 
tively rapid ; and though the coral limestone is un- 
conformable to the Oceanic series, yet the interval 
of time between the uplift of the latter and the 
commencement of coral-growth may not have been 
a very long one. The subsequent elevation of the 
island during the formation of the coral platforms 
seems to have been slow and regular, and to have 
acted evenly over the whole area. 



180 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

The first part of the island to emerge above the 
sea was, of course, that which is now of the greatest 
height above it. The original Barbados was a small 
island which included the heights now known as 
Mount Hillaby and Chimborazo. The greater part 
of this original island has been destroyed and carried 
away by subsequent erosion and denudation ; a part 
of the coral reefs which encircled its leeward side 
still remains in the low escrapment of coral rock 
which extends from Greggs Farm and Hillaby to 
Castle Grant. 

At this time six-sevenths of what constitutes the 
present area of Barbados, was under water ; and this 
brings us to the fourth period in the geological his- 
tory of the island, when the coral formation occured, 
which may be regarded as a sheet or mantle spread 
over the surface of the older rocks ; the oceanic 
deposits and the Scotland rock, that remained under 
water, forming a broad and low dome-shaped mass or 
basis, on which the coral formation has been gradually 
built up. 

This coral cap, however, cannot be regarded as an 
even and continuous sheet, for both its lower and 
upper surfaces are irregular ; it really consists of a 
number of separate stages or platforms, built up one 
around the other as the island slowly arose from the 
sea level. 

The first noticeable feature is that these terraces 
are not all subsidiary to one centre, but to two. The 
principal terraces conform to the central ridge of 
highland, and curve round the highest part: of the 
Scotland distric between Mount Hillaby and Castle 
Grant. 

The southern portion of the island has a similar, 
though smaller, independent system of terraces which 
form what is now known as Christchurch ridge. No 
part of this is more than 400 feet above the sea, 
whence it is clear that when the sea level coincided 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 181 

with the contour of 200 feet, Barbados consisted of 
two islands instead of one ; these islands being 
separated by a shallow sea or strait occupying the 
broad valley or depression which traverses the island 
east of Bridgetown. As time went on, reefs gradually 
formed in this strait, and by subsequent elevations 
were brought to the surface, so that the two islands 
were eventually united into one. 

The thickness of the coral limestone varies greatly 
in different places. The tendency of coral growth 
being to fill up the hollows of the underlying surface, 
and to build up a platform that is limited by the sea 
level, hence it must be evident that some parts of 
the reef must be deeper and thicker than others. 
So far as it has been ascertained by boring, 
there are few places where the thickness of the coral 
rocks exceeds 200 feet, and in some places it is so 
thin that it only forms a superficial crust, which in 
a few localities, has been worn off and washed away 
over a certain area, so as to expose the underlying 
strata, as near Loamfield, and other places. 

After the union of the two islands was accom- 
plished, Barbados quickly assumed the shape it now 
possesses. It is probable that by this time the 
elevatory movement was dying out and acted but 
very slowly, so that the upward growth of coral was 
the chief agent in the formation of the undulating 
plains in the rear of Bridgetown and in the eastern 
part of St. Philip's. Still they could not have arisen 
to their present height above the sea without an 
uplifting movement, and it cannot have been very 
long ago, geologically speaking, since this movement 
finally ceased. 

The last or fifth period in the geological history of 
the island was the formation of the soil and surface 
deposits, thereby rendering it fit for the habitation 
of man and of the animal creation. In an island so 
devoted, to agriculture, the manner in which the 



182 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

soils have originated and the reason why they differ 
so from one another, must be an interesting subject 
to its inhabitants. 

The basis of every soil is in the sub-soil or rock for- 
mation which underlies it ; that is to say, the slow 
disintegration, or breaking up of the underlying rock 
material by the various surface agencies to which it 
is exposed, gives rise to the loose earth which we 
call soil. It does not follow, however, that the same 
subsoil is everywhere covered by exactly the same 
kind of soil, because there are several circumstances 
which cause mixtures and varieties of soil. Thus, on 
every slope there is a tendency for the soil to move 
down the slope, and whenever there is a depression 
or valley, there soil will accumulate and vegetation 
thrive. The soils of Barbados are divided into two 
classes, those of the Scotland District and those of 
the coral-rock area. In the latter the most remark- 
able is the red loam soil, which is found of the greatest 
depth on the highest plateau, above 900 feet ; below 
800 feet it is much thinner, and under 500 feet it is 
covered by dark carbonaceous earth — the so-called 
black soil. 

The red soil occurs everywhere over the surface 
of limestone that is exposed to the slow, solvent 
action of rainwater, and is the sediment or ash as it 
were, left behind, extracted by the shell-forming 
zoophytes from the waters of the ocean. It is the 
same as the valuable red soil of the Bahamas, on 
which pine-apples are grown, and also that of the 
Bermudas on which the onion is raised. It represents 
the residue of a great thickness of the limestone rock ; 
as from 50 to 60 cubic feet of coral rock must have 
been destroyed in order to produce one cubic foot of 
red soil. The black earth is found only on the lowest 
coral-rock levels, overlying the thin coating of red 
soil, and is composed of decayed vegetable matter. 
When Barbados was first colonized, it was covered 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 183 

by a dense mass of tangled vegetation with frequent 
mangrove swamps, and the natural decay of this 
vegetation formed the black earth. 

In the Scotland district there is a much greater 
variety in the soil, but it is less productive ; it may be 
divided into heavy, argillaceous and light, sandy soils, 
the latter being deficient in lime. Consequenly the 
most fertile fields are those where the soil is derived 
in part from the sand and clays, and in part from the 
oceanic series ; and all the valleys and lowest levels in 
this district are covered with this alluvial deposit. 

Wind-blown sands also occur in some places along 
the western coast, consisting of minute fragments of 
corals and shells. If plentifully supplied with water, 
these tracts can be cultivated with success ; but the 
siliceous, wind-blown sands of St. Andrews, are quite 
unfertile. 



164: STARK'S BIS TOR Y AND G UIDE 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

WASHINGTON'S VISIT TO BARBADOS, BARBADIAN 
HOSPITALITY. 



The most distinguished American that ever visited 
Barbados was George Washington, then a Major in 
the British Army. He visited the island in the fall 
and winter of 175 1-2, nearly twenty-five years before 
the outbreak of the American Revolution. He was 
then about twenty years of age, had been a licensed 
surveyor in Virginia for over three years, and, shortly 
before sailing, had been commissioned one of the 
Adjutants-General of Virginia with the rank of 
Major, and the pay of ^150 a year. 

George Washington kept a daily journal during 
his voyage and visit to Barbados. While studying 
surveying he had theoretically studied navigation ; and 
this voyage offered an exceptionally good opportunity 
for him to acquire a practical knowledge of the art : 
of which, from his early desire to adopt a seafaring 
life, we may well suppose he eagerly availed. 

He ruled the pages of his dairy, an improvised 
book, to correspond to a ship's log-book, and took 
with regularity the daily instrumental observations 
made by navigators at sea. If we had no other 
means of knowing Washington, this journal of itself, 
would show that he possessed at that early age, 
strong and acute natural powers of observation, and 
that his mind was, for his years, unusually matured 



TO BARBADOS AND THE C 'A RIB BEE ISLANDS. 185 

and well stored with practical knowledge and 
historical facts. During his stay in Barbados, he 
acquired and recorded in his journal a wonderful 
amount of information about the island, its climate, 
the character of its soil, its productions, population, 
commerce, resources, government, defences, etc. 
This old brown and faded manuscript is in a lament- 
able state of decay ; but fortunately it has just been 
published, so that now it is within the reach of all.* 

Washington went to Barbados as a companion to 
his invalid brother, Major Lawrence Washington, (the 
proprietor of Mount Vernon on the Potomac in 
Virginia,) who was suffering from consumption. 

The affectionate, mutual attachment of these 
two brothers, though marked from early childhood, 
was particularly so after the death of their father. 
Lawrence was fourteen years older than George, had 
received a good education in England, and had held 
a captain's commission in the British Army; had 
travelled and seen much of the world ; possessed 
business habits and decision of character, and enjoyed 
the confidence and regard of the leading men in 
Virginia, as well as of a large circle of influential 
persons in Great Britain. He had served as captain 
in the expedition against Carthegena, 1740-2, under 
the command of Admiral Vernon, in whose honor, he 
named his estate on the Potomac. Immediately after 
his return from Barbados and Bermuda, he died at 
Mount Vernon, July 26th 1752 ; and his remains rest 
in the vault there, beside those of his "beloved 
brother George," to whom he devised his Mount 
Vernon estate. 

Washington sailed from the Potomac river 'on the 
28th of September 1 75 1, for Barbados, the island being 
even at that early date famous as a health resort. 
This reputation and the frequent and intimate inter- 

*"The Daily Journal of Major George Washington," Joel Munsell, Publisher, 
Albany, N. Y., 1892. 



186 STARK'S HIS TOR Y A ND C UTDE 

course between the residents of that island and the 
planters of Virginia probably determined Major 
Lawrence Washington to prefer Barbados to any 
other West Indian island for his visit. They arrived 
at Bridgetown November 3rd, 1 75 1. The following 
extracts from his journal will prove interesting, 
especially to his countrymen. 

" We were greatly alarm'd with the cry of Land at 4 
A. M. : we quitted our beds with surprise and found y e land 
plainly appearing at about 3 Leauges distance when by our 
reckonings we shou'd have been near 150 Leauges to the 
Windward we to Leeward ab* y e distance above mention'd 
and had we been but 3 or 4 Leauges more we shou'd have 
been out of sight of the Island run down the Latitude and 
probably not have discover'd our Error in time to have 
gain'd the land for 3 Weeks or More. 

November 4th 1751. This morning received a card 
from Major Clark welcoming us to Barbadoes, with an 
invitation to breakfast and dine with him. We went — 
myself with some reluctance, as the smalpox was in his 
family.* We were received in the most kind and friendly 
manner by him. Mrs. Clark was much indisposed, inso- 
much that we had not the pleasure of her company, but 
in her place officiated Miss Roberts, her niece, and an 
agreeable young lady. After drinking tea we were invited 
to Mr. Carter's, and desired to make his house ours till we 
could provide lodgings agreeable to our wishes, which 
offer we accepted. 

5th, — Early this morning came Dr. Hilary, an eminent 
physician recommended by Major Clarke, to pass his 
opinion on my brother's disorder, which he did in a favor- 
able light, giving great assurance that it was not so fixed 
but that a cure might be effectually made. In the cool of 
the evening we rode out accompanied by Mr. Carter to 
seek lodgings in the country, as the Doctor advised, and 
were perfectly enraptured with the beautiful prospects 



♦This apprehension was well founded for thirteen days afterwards he was stricken 
vith it. Fortunately he passed safely through the disease with but few marks upon 
Ins face. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CAR IB BEE ISLANDS. 187 

which on every side presented to our view. The fields of 
Cain, Corn, Fruit Trees &c. in a delightful Green. We 
returned without accomplishing our intentions. 

Tuesday 6th. At Mr. Carter's employing ourselves in 
Writ g Letters, to be carried by the Choorier Fredicksburg 
Capt Robinson to Virginia. Received a Card from 
Maj r Clark wherein our company was desir'd to Dinner to 
morrow & myself an invitation from Mrs. Clarke and 
Miss Rob ts to come and see the serp ts fir'd bring guns* & 
I had the pleasure of seeing Mrs. Clarke. 

Wednesday 7th. Dined at Maj'r Clarkes; and by him 
was introduced to the Surveyor Gen 1 & Judges, Finley & 
Hacket ; who likewise dined there : in the Evening they 
complaisantly accompanied us in another excursion in the 
Country to choose such lodgins as most suited ; we pitched 
on the house of Capt n Crofton, commander of James Fort ; 
he was desir'd to come to Town next day to propose his 
terms. We return'd by way of Needham's fort and was 
introduced to ye Capt n thereof, a Genteel, pretty gentleman. 
Sup'd and spent the Evening at Maj'r Clarke with the 
Gentlemen before mentioned. 

Thursday 8th. Came Capt n Crofton with his proposals 
which tho extravagently dear my Brother was oblig'd to 
give. ^15 pr Month is his charge exclusive of Liquors 
& washing which we find, in the Evening we remov'd 
some of our things up and ourselves ; it's very pleasantly 
situated, pretty near the Sea and ab* a mile from Town, 
the prospect is extensive by Land and pleasent by Sea as 
we command the prospect of Carlyle Bay & all the shipping 
in such manner that none can go in or out with out being 
open to our view. 

Fry day 9 th. We received a Card from Maf Clarke 
inviting us to dine with him at Judge Maynards on the 
Morrow, he had a right to ask, being a member of the 
Club call'd the Beefstake & tripe, instituted by himself and 
others. 

Saturday 10th. We were Genteely receiv'd by Judge 

*This refers to the " gunpowder plot " which was commemorated in Barbados by 
a season of festivities, lasting from the 1st to the 9th of November. 



188 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

Satus Maynard & Lady and agreeably entertain'd by the 
Company, they have a meeting every Saturday, this being 
Col Maynards. After Dinner was the greatest Collection 
of Fruits I have ever seen set on the Table. We received 
invitations from every Gentleman there. Mr. Warren 
desired Maj r Clarke to shew us the way to his house ; Mr. 
Hack* insisted on our coming Saturday next to his, being 
his Day to treat with Beef Stake & tripe, but above all the 
invitation of Mr. Maynard was the most kind and friendly, 
he desir'd and even insisted as well as his Lady with him 
and promis'd nothing should be wanting to render our stay 
agreeable my Br promis'd he wou'd as soon as he was a 
Little disengag'd from the D rs - We returned and was 
invited to Dine at Maj r Clarke's the next Day by himself. 

Sunday nth. Dressed in order for Church, but got to 
town two Late, dined at Maj r Clarkes with ye S : G : went 
to Evening Service and returned to our Lodgings. 

Munday 12th. Receiv'd an afternoon Visit from Capt 
Petrie and invitation to dine with him the next Day. 

Tuesday 13th. Dined at the Fort with some Ladys, its 
pretty strongly fortifyed and mounts about 36 Gunes within 
the fortifi n but 2 facine Batterys, m e 5 1 . 

Wednesday 14th. Was at our Lodgings. 

Thursday 15 th. Was treated with a play ticket by Mr. 
Carter to see the Tragedy of George Barnwell acted : the 
character of Barnwell, and several others was said to be 
well perform'd, there was Musick a Dapted and regularly 
conducted. 

Fryday 16th. Mr. Graeme, late one of the Masters of 
the College of Virginia, paid us a Morning's Visit and in- 
vited us to dine with Judge Graeme his B on Sunday, din'd 
this Day at Maj r Clarke's. 

Saturday 17th — Was strongly attacked with the small 
Pox sent for D r Lanahan whose attendance was very con- 
stant till my recovery, and going out which was not 'till 
thursday the 12th of December. 

December 12th. Went to Town visited Maf Clarke's 
Family (who kindly visited me in my illness and contributed 
all they cou'd in send'g me the necessary's required in ye 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CA RIB BEE ISLANDS. 189 

disorder) and dined with Maj r Gaskens a half Br r to Mrs. 
Clarke. 

Fryday Spent at our Lodgings. 

Saturday 14th. My B r dined at Needham's, myself at 
Maj. Clarkes. 

Sunday 15. Dined with Judge Graeme after returning 
from Christ Church. 

Monday 16th. Dined at Needham Fort with Capt n 
Petrie. 

Tuesday 16th. Dined at Maj r Clarke with commodore 
Hobourn, Govern Pursel G r of Totola, General Barrack & 
many others. 

Wednesday 17th. Dined with Messrs. Stephenson's 
Merch tB - 

Thursday 18. Provided my Sea Stores, dined with 
M Carter. 

Fryday 19. Got my Clothes, Stores &c. on board the 
Industry Cap n John Saunders for Virginia. 

Saturday 21st. At my Lodgings. 

Sunday 2 2d. Took my leave of my B r and Maj Clarke 
&c. Imbarked on the Industry Capt n John Saunders for 
Virginia wai'd anchor and got out of Carlile Bay ab* 12." 

A residence of six weeks in Barbados brought no 
relief to the sufferings of Major Lawrence Washing- 
ton. After mature deliberation, it was agreed 
between the brothers that George should return 
home, and Lawrence should try Bermuda. If there 
were any improvement, George was to come there 
with Lawrence's wife. He wrote to a friend in 
Virginia on the 6th of April, from Bermuda, where 
he had gone in March, that " I have now got to my 
last refuge, where I must receive my final sentence. 
If I grow worse, I shall hurry home to my grave ; if 
better, I shall be induced to stay longer here to 
complete a cure." All his hopes were false. In 
despair he returned home in time to receive the kind 
ministrations of his wife and friends, and died at 
Mount Vernon 26 July, 1752. 



190 ST A RK 'S HIS TOR Y AND G UIDE 

Washington, in his description of the inhabitants 
of Barbados, speaks of their hospitality, which is as 
true of them to-day as it was when his journal 
was written : he says, " Hospitality and Genteel 
behaviour is shewn to every gentleman stranger by 
the Inhabitants." Indeed every entry in his journal 
proves this, for from the day Washington landed in 
Barbados till he sailed, he was the receipient daily 
of invitations and courtesies extended to him and 
his brother by the islanders. 

Strangers bringing letters of introduction will 
meet with ample attention, and visitors generally 
will be treated with every courtesy. Hospitality is 
carried to an extreme unknown in England and the 
United States, and there are few persons who have 
ever visited Barbados, who have not separated from 
many of the inhabitants with regret. 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 191 



CHAPTER XIX. 

THE FUTURE OF BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE 
ISLANDS. 



The West Indies, like other parts of the world, are 
going through a silent revolution. Elsewhere the 
revolution, as we hope, is to result in the passing away 
of what is old and worn out, that a healthier order 
may rise in its place. In the West Indies and the 
southern part of the United States, the most sanguine 
of mortals will find it difficult to entertain any hope 
at all. 

It matters not what the nationality or form of 
government may be, provided that negro slavery once 
existed there, then the country is surely cursed if a 
representative form of government is attempted, with 
universal suffrage. 

It is strange to think how chequered a history these 
islands have had, how far they are even yet from any 
condition which promises permanence. Not one of 
them has arrived at any stable independence ; Span- 
iards, Englishmen, Frenchmen, Dutchmen and Danes 
scrambled for them, fought for them, occupied them 
more or less with their own people ; yet it was not to 
found new nations, but to get gold, or something which 
could be changed for gold. Instead of occupying them 
with free inhabitants the European nations filled 
them with savages from Africa, to labor under the 
tropical sun, that Europeans could not endure. There 



192 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

have been splendor and luxurious living there, and 
also crimes, revolts and massacres. 

There are no people there in the true sense of the 
word, unless to some extent in Cuba and Barbados, 
and therefore when the wind has changed and the 
wealth for which the islands were alone valued is no 
longer to be made there, and slavery is no longer 
possible and would not pay if it were, there is 
nothing to fall back upon. Planters and merchants 
see their palaces fall to decay ; their wines and 
their furniture, their books and their pictures are 
sold and dispersed ; their existence is a struggle to 
keep afloat, and one by one they go under the waves 
of adversity. 

In the early days, before the introduction of negro 
slaves, white labor was tried in several of the islands, 
notably in Barbados and St. Kitts, where many 
thousands of white laborers were sold into servitude 
for a number of years, as described in previous 
chapters on those islands. The experiment did not 
succeed, as men of the Anglo-Saxon race cannot labor 
in the fields under a tropical sun, and live. If en- 
gaged in sedentary employments, where they are 
protected from the sun, professional men, merchants, 
clerks and mechanics can live here as well as, and even 
longer than, they could in England, the home of their 
race, provided they lead an abstemious life. The 
writer has seen as fine specimens of the Anglo-Saxon 
race in these islands — descendants of the Englishmen 
who came here over two hundred years ago — as in 
England, the United States, or any other part of the 
world. The Latin races do better than the Anglo- 
Saxon as field laborers in tropical countries, as for 
instance the Spaniards in Cuba, Porto Rico and South 
America. The French in Martinique and Guada- 
loupe, and the Portugese laborers from the Azores 
who have been employed in considerable numbers 
in several of the islands and in Demerara, have 



TO BARBADOS AND THE C A RIB BEE ISLANDS. 193 

been fairly successful in standing the climate ; 
but, nevertheless, white labor has never succeeded, 
the Portugese rarely renewing their labor contracts, 
prefering on their expiration, to set up as small 
storekeepers or planters, or to return to their native 
country. Therefore it is absolutely necessary for 
the future of the West Indies that they should have 
a class of labor that will be able to stand the climate, 
be industrious, and easily controlled by its em- 
ployers. If properly managed, the negro will fill 
these conditions better than any other race, but the 
white man must rule. 

The greatest danger today that menaces the West 
Indies and Barbados in particular, is negro rule, which 
would certainly come under universal suffrage. 
Through Sir Conrad Reeves' exertions the suffrage 
has been extended within the last few years to 
double its former extent. A person paying a par- 
ochial tax of not less than £i, or five dollars, is en- 
titled to vote. Barbados has reached the danger line; 
the next step is universal suffrage. Sir Conrad 
Reeves, the colored Chief Justice, informed the writer 
he believed, " that every man should be entitled to 
vote, irrespective of property or educational qualifica- 
tions ; " the only qualification that he would require 
would be that the nominees should be men of wealth 
and education. 

What would then be the result ? In Barbados, 
with a black and colored population of 185,000, and the 
whites numbering only 15,000, and steadily decreasing 
at that, with the blacks increasing at an alarming 
extent, there would be no good or sufficient reason 
why the black man should not say to the remnant of 
the whites, " Stand aside and see how we can make 
laws for your guidance and regulation, as you have, 
all these years, made laws for us while the power was 
in your hands ; we are now in the majority, and the 
majority rules. We may not know how to do better, 



194 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

or even as well ; nevertheless, we intend to make 
the experiment." What will happen in those days ? 
Has fifty years of freedom under the liberal laws of 
Great Britain fitted the negro for this struggle ? Has 
he been put into such thorough training as will enable 
him to secure a place, even, in the race for civilization ? 
Is he strong enough to contend in the arena of 
politics, to hold up his end of the world ? I fear 
not, for the following reasons. First, he was taken 
away from Ashantec and Dahomey, to be a slave, it 
is true, but a slave to a less cruel master than he 
would have found at home. He had a hard time of 
it occasionally, and the plantation whip, and the 
auction block are not all dreams ; yet his owner cared 
for him at least as much as he did for his cows and 
horses. Kind usage to animals is more economical 
than barbarity, and it cannot be denied that the 
negroes that were taken out of Africa, as compared 
with those who were left at home, were as the " elect 
to salvation," who, after a brief purgatory, have secured 
an eternity of blessedness. For fifty years they have 
had perfect liberty, and have been kept safe from 
dangers, to which, left to themselves, they would have 
been exposed : for under English rule, the strong is 
prevented from oppressing the weak. But the peace 
and order by which they benefit, is not of their own 
creation. In spite of schools and missionaries, the 
dark connection still maintains itself with Satan's 
invisible world, and modern education contends in 
vain with Obeah worship. The negro obeys the laws, 
not out of respect for the laws themselves, but be- 
cause he stands in awe of the power that enforces 
the law ; if he had the power they would be re- 
pealed. The negro goes to school it is true, but if 
the school-houses were removed he would not tax 
himself to support a system of public education. 
There are many able colored men in the West Indies 
to be met everywhere, preachers, lawyers, merchants 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CARIBBEE ISLANDS. 195 

and doctors, but the great mass of the population are 
indolent, physically and mentally — ignorant beyond 
belief, unambitious, superstitious, in fact, brutish. 

The blacks depend, for the progress which they 
may be capable of making, on the presence of a white 
community among them ; left to themselves, they 
would soon forget what little they have been taught, 
cease to strive after higher things, and, in the islands 
where life may be supported by plucking and eating 
the wild fruits and other native crops, the people 
would, in the course of time relapse into a state of 
barbarism. The African hut of wattles and thatch, 
would take the place of the comfortable, substantially- 
built slave-quarters, and the negroes would be found 
cooking their bananas and yams on the ruins of 
warehouses ; a state of things which the writer actually 
saw in several of the Caribbee islands. 

Secondly. The American negro belongs to the 
lowest race on the earth : travellers who have been 
in Africa say that the Zulus and Caffres are far 
superior to the American negro ; that the latter is 
coarsely formed in limb and feature ; that they would 
have been slaves in their own country if they had not 
been brought to ours : and at the most they have lost 
nothing by the change. The whites and blacks are 
not equal and will not blend ; no white girl will marry 
a negro ; and hardly any dowry can be large enough 
to tempt a West Indian white to make a wife of an 
educated black woman. The white will not even 
hold social intercourse with the negro, but keeps aloof 
from him as a superior from an inferior. 

Under universal suffrage, the negro voters might 
elect, to begin with, their colored attorneys or such 
whites, the most disreputable of their color, as would 
court their suffrages. But the negro does not like 
the mulatto, and despises the white man who consents 
to be his servant. Already the whites are dwindling 
away in all the islands ; establish negro rule and they 



196 STARK'S HISTORY AND GUIDE 

will withdraw of themselves altogether before they 
are compelled to go. Anglo-Saxon men will not 
live under the rule of an inferior race ; they have the 
world open to them and will prefer lands where they 
can live under less degrading circumstances. 

The salvation of Barbados in the past has beerr the 
fact that the negro had to work or starve : there was 
no land to squat on, as every foot was devoted to 
the cultivation of sugar cane. Under negro rule 
it would soon be otherwise : under a " popular form 
of government," laws would be made on the principal 
of " the greatest good for the greatest number ; " the 
" single tax theory " would receive universal support ; 
and every negro, as soon as he understood the scheme, 
would become a disciple of Henry George. The 
whole tax-levy would fall upon real estate ; and the 
irresponsible voter having nothing to lose but 
everything to gain, would not be slow in running the 
island into debt. The result would be that the owners 
of real estate would be taxed out of existence, the 
estates would be sold for unpaid taxes and bought in 
by the municipality. Then the inhabitants could 
obtain all the land they wanted to squat on, and 
raise all they desired with very little work. No more 
sugar would be exported from Barbados, and the negro 
would be truly free. He could live and multiply on 
this fertile island without work, and live as his 
ancestors did in Africa ; he would have everything 
his own way, and in a short time have the island to 
himself. No Europeans would remain to be ruled 
under a black representative system, nor would they 
take part in it, when they would be so overwhelmingly 
outvoted and outnumbered : they would sooner for- 
feit all they had in the world and go away. 

This bloodless revolution would be accomplished 
simply through the supineness of the whites in 
allowing the negroes universal suffrage. With a 
property and educational qualification, the whites 



TO BARBADOS AND THE CA RIB BEE ISLANDS. 197 

would continue to be the governing race ; for as a 
rule, the colored people and negroes who possessed 
property would vote with the whites in the interest 
of law and order. 

Thirdly, the world has seen two great examples 
of negro rule, under entirely different circumstances ; 
one where the negro, for the first time in the history 
of the earth, fought and gained his independence 
and exterminated the white man, his former master. 
The other, where white men of the Anglo-Saxon race 
fought for four years some of the most desperate 
battles in history for the negro's freedom, and then 
the victor gave him political rights by which he could 
rule his former master. 



Marine Hotel, 

BARBADOS, - WEST INDIES, 

171 HE finest health resort in the tropics, situated on the 
O fairest isle in all the Southern seas, in a land of 
perpetual summer, where frost, fogs, or mists 
are unknown; the average temperature is 75 to 80 
degrees. 

The Hotel is about two miles from the steamer landing, 
with street car connection. It is built of limestone, walls 
30 inches thick, building 360 feet long, with two wings. 
It contains 200 apartments. The rooms are light and airy 
and have a splendid sea-view. The sea-bathing is the finest 
in the world, the temperature of which is suitable for the 
most delicate invalid, also private fresh-water baths, douche 
and shower, in the hotel. 

A fine stable is connected with the Hotel. Horses for 
riding and carriages furnished at moderate cost. 

TERMS, $2.50 TO $4.00 PER DAY. 

G, S, POMEROY & CO,, - - Proprietors, 



BKRBKDOS, WEST INDIES. 



• • • • ACENTS I • • - • 

PAUL F. GERHARD & CO., 19 Whitehall St., ;New York, 

QUEBEC S. S. CO., 39 Broadway, N. Y., or 

THOS. COOK & SON, 261 Broadway, New York. 



TO JAMAICA DIRECT 

BY 

Steamers of the United fruit Co. 

CARRYING THE U. S. MAIL. 

SAILING FROM 

Long Wharf, Boston ; 

Pier 1, North River, New York; 

Pier 5, North Wharves, Philadelphia ; 
Bowley's Wharf, Baltimore, 

Direct for Port Antonio, Jamaica, Weekly. 

These steamers are fitted with superior accommodations for passen- 
gers ; cabins are on main deck, and located forward of engines, thus 
securing light and air free from disagreeable odors. 

DISTANCE TO PORT ANTONIO, JAMAICA. 

From Boston 1,600 miles 

New York 1,420 " 

Philadelphia 1,390 " 

Baltimore 1,350 " 

Which is covered in from four to five days. 

At Port Antonio passengers can be accommodated at the Company's 
Hotel "Titchfield," one of the most attractive and comfortable 
houses in the West Indies. 

Excellent communication from Port Antonio by land or water with 
all parts of the Island. 

The Company also run excellent Hotel Cottages at Bowden, near the 
famed Hot Sulphur Springs at Bath, which are a specific for Rheuma- 
tism. 

For particulars apply to 

UNITED FRUIT COHPANY, 

Addresses as above. 




f? 



QUEBEC STEAMSHIP CO., 



(LIMITED) 




BERMUDA ROYAL MAIL LINE. 



PRETORIA - - - 3,300 TONS 

TRINIDAD - - - 2,600 " 

With Magnificent Passenger Accommodations, 
Leave 

New York for Bermuda 

Weekly from January to June, and fortnightly thereafter. 



FOR FURTHER INFORMATION APPLY TO 

QUEBEC STEAMSHIP COMPANY, 

Quebec and New York* 



THOMAS COOK & SONS, PASSENGER AGENTS, A. E. OUTERBRIDGE & CO., AGENTS, 

261 Broadway, New York. 39 Broadway, New York. 

ARTHUR AHERN, Secretary, QUEBEC. 



New York and West Indies Line 

THE Ai IRON STEAMSHIPS 

PARIMA, 3,000 Tons, 

FONTABELLE, 2,700 Tons, 

KARONA, 3,000 Tons, 

CARIBBEE, 2,000 Tons, 

SPLENDID ACCOMMODATIONS AND ALL MODERN COMFORTS. 

Leave NEW YORK for ST. THOMAS, ST. CROIX, ST. KITTS, 

ANTIGUA, DOMINICA, MARTINIQUE, ST. LUCIA, 

BARBADOS, and DEMERARA every ten days. 



ST. LAWRENCE LINE, 

THE A1 TWIN SCREW STEAMSHIP 

CAMPANA, , . . . 1,700 TONS, 

With Electric Lights and All Modern Comforts, 
Leaves Montreal every Alternate Monday for . . 

PIOTOU, N.S., 

Calling at Quebec, Father Point, Gaspe, Perce, Grand River, 
Summerside, and Charlottetown. 

Through Tickets issued to Halifax, N.S., St, John, N.B., Portland, 
Boston, New York, etc. 

Connect with Steamers and Railroads for all parts of the British 
Provinces and the United States, and at Halifax with Steamers for 
Newfoundland and New York. 



FOB FURTHER PARTICULARS APPLY TO 

QUEBEC STEAMSHIP COMPANY, 

Quebec and New York* 

THOMAS COOK & SONS, PASSENGER AGENTS, A. E. OUTERBRIDGE & CO., AGENTS, 

261 Broadway, New York. 39 Broadway, New York. 

ARTHUR AHERN, Secretary, QUEBEC. 



PICKFORD & BLACK'S 

West India Steamship Lines 

BETWEEN 

St. JOHN, H.B., and HALIFAX, N.S., 

AND 

BERMUDA, WEST INDIE5, *t)4 
DEAVERARA. 



PICKFORD & BLACK'S STEAMSHIP CO., Ltd. 

Regular sailings from St. John, N.B., and Halifax, N.S., to 
Demerara, calling at Bermuda, St. Lucia, Barbados, Trinidad, 
every two weeks, and St. Kitts, Antigua, Montserrat, Dominica, 
St. Vincent, Grenada, Tobago, every four weeks. 



HALIFAX AND WEST INDIA STEAMSHIP CO., Ltd. 

Halifax to Jamaica, via Bermuda and Turks Island. 

S.S. " Beta" 15th every month. 

All the steamers of these lines are fitted with excellent passenger ac- 
commodation, deck staterooms, electric lights, and fans. All first class 
in every respect. 

PICKFORD & BLACK, Managers. 
HALIFAX, N.S. 



THE HAMILTON** 



Is the largest, finest, most complete and best hotel in the 
Bermudas, or in the West Indies. 

The house is of stone throughout, with fireproof walls 
and partitions. It is provided with every improvement and 
convenience, including the only passenger elevator in Ber- 
muda. The greatest care has been taken to make the sani- 
tary arrangements perfect in every respect. The mildness of 
the climate renders artificial heat really unnecessary ; but in 
order that the most delicate may suffer no inconvenience, 
even in stormy weather, the dining-room and halls are pro- 
vided with steam pipes, and a considerable number of desir- 
able rooms are furnished with fireplaces. 

The grounds are extensive and beautifully laid out, and 
are filled with many varieties of exquisite flowers the entire 
winter. The elevation is the highest in the city, thus insur- 
ing dryness and perfect drainage, and also commanding a 
delightful view of the city, the surrounding country, the 
harbor, shipping, forts and adjacent islands. Tennis and 
croquet grounds are provided for the amusement of the 
guests. 

An excellent orchestra has been engaged and will give 
daily morning concerts during the season, and will play each 
evening for dancing. 

The hotel is open for the reception of guests from De- 
cember until May, and no pains will be spared in making the 
table and service equal to that of the best houses in less 
isolated parts of the world. 



P«r terms and further information apply to 

A. C BROOKS, Manager, 

Address until December ist, 147 Summer Street, Boston, 
Mass., afterward at Hamilton, Bermuda. 



THE 

ROYAL MAIL 

Steam Packet Company. 

(Incorporated by Royal Charter, 1839.) 

fORTNIGHTLY service by MAIL STEAMERS, 

SOUTHAMPTON to WEST INDIES. 



PORTS OF CALL. 

Jamaica, Limon, Colon, Cartagena, Savanilla, Barbados, St. 

Lucia, Martinique, Dominica, Guadaloupe, Montserrat, 

Antigua, Nevis, St. Kitts, St. Thomas, St. Vincent, 

Grenada, Trinidad, Tobago, La Guaira (for 

Caraccas), and Demerara. 

The Transatlantic Mail Steamers are fine vessels of 5,000 tons, and 
the Intercolonial Steamers are very comfortable vessels of 2,000 tons, 
fitted with electric light and all modern improvements. 

The steamers of the Company afford tourists excellent means of 
communication, and special facilities are given to this class of passen- 
gers. 

The Company have a mail service from Southampton to Spain, Por- 
tugal, Brazil, and the River Plate. Reduced through rate bookings 
from New York by the American Line steamers, via Southampton. 

For information as to fares and sailings apply to 

18 MOORGATE ST., LONDON. 



NEW YORK. BOSTON. 

MESSRS SANDERSON & SON, MESSRS. SANDERSON & SON, 

22 State Street. Chamber of Commerce Bldg. 

JAMAICA. BARBADOS. 

CAPT. CONSTANTINE, CAPT. OWEN, 

R.M.S.P. Co., Kingston. R.M.S.P. Co., Bridgtown. 



-THE NEW- 

PRINCESS HOTEL, 

HAMILTON, BERMUDA. 



This new and commodious hotel, built in 
1884, entirely of wood (making it the most 
comfortable house on the Island), will be open 
for the reception of guests from 

^DECEMBER TO MAY.> 

It is modern in all its appointments. 
Hot and cold water ; fresh and salt water baths. 
Electric bells and gas throughout. Over 400 
feet of broad piazza overlooking harbor and 
surrounding country. Finest location in Ber- 
muda. 

With recent additions, steam heat has 
been introduced, and the hotel now has accom- 
modations for two hundred guests. 



For Terms, Circulars, and any further information, address 

N. S. HOWE, 

PRINCESS HOTEL, HAMILTON, Bermuda. 



>CT 2 ?903 



..,H™5. ARY 0F CONGRESS 



015 814 779 8 



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QUEBEC STEAMSHIP CO 
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♦AND* 

QUEBEC — CANADA. 



